夏布绣 | 民间绣活 | 非物质文化遗产

文摘   2024-10-28 08:04   天津  


01.

夏布绣

Grasscloth embroidery






夏布绣是江西省非物质文化遗产,俗称 “麻布刺绣”。它孕育于 “中国夏布之乡” 和 “中国夏布技艺之乡”—— 江西省新余市。


Grass cloth embroidery is an intangible cultural heritage of Jiangxi Province, commonly known as "linen embroidery". It was born in Xinyu City, Jiangxi Province, "the hometown of Chinese grass cloth" and "the hometown of Chinese grass cloth technology".




夏布绣,又称赣绣、麻绣,根植于麻绣绣活之上,其历史可追溯至北宋时期。据夏布绣传承人张小红女士推测,随着宋元以后棉纺的兴起,麻纺逐渐退居次要地位,但因其适宜夏季穿着,麻布开始有了“夏布”之称,麻绣也随之被称为“夏绣”。在北宋时期,以名人书画为题材的美术刺绣勃兴,这股风潮在民间麻绣的基础上,孕育出了具有正统之美的夏绣。从此,夏布绣以其独特的艺术风格和技艺特征,在民间流传并不断发展。


Xia cloth embroidery, also known as Gan embroidery and hemp embroidery, is rooted in hemp embroidery, and its history can be traced back to the Northern Song Dynasty. According to Ms Zhang Xiaohong, the inheritor of Xiabao embroidery, it was speculated that with the rise of cotton spinning after the Song and Yuan dynasties, flax spinning gradually retreated to a secondary position, but because of its suitability for summer wear, linen began to be called "xiao", and hemp embroidery was also called "summer embroidery". In the Northern Song Dynasty, fine art embroidery with the theme of celebrity painting and calligraphy prospered, and this trend gave birth to the orthodox beauty of summer embroidery based on folk hemp embroidery. Since then, Xia cloth embroidery, with its unique artistic style and technical characteristics, has spread among the folk and continues to develop.




02.

技艺特征

Skill Characteristics






  夏布绣以其独特的绣地材质和精湛的刺绣技艺而著称。夏布,由苎麻纺织而成,具有天然的肌理和色泽。江西省新余市是优质苎麻的主要产地之一,所产的苎麻布曾作为贡品上贡朝廷。优质的苎麻夏布,为夏布绣提供了坚实的物质基础。


  Xia cloth embroidery is famous for its unique embroidery materials and exquisite embroidery skills. Grass cloth, made of ramie textile, has a natural texture and colour. The Xinyu City of Jiangxi Province is one of the main producing areas of high-quality ramie, and the ramie cloth produced was once used as a tribute to the imperial court. The high-quality ramie cloth provides a solid material foundation for the cloth's embroidery.



  在刺绣技艺上,夏布绣融合了多种精细的艺术刺绣针法,包括平绣、十字绣、纳纱绣、锁绣等。此外,夏布绣还继承了民间麻布刺绣上的打籽绣、平针绣、数纱绣等传统针法,并融合了透底针、通透乱针、芝麻针等精细的刺绣针法,形成了其独特的当代刺绣艺术风格。


  In terms of embroidery skills, Jiabao embroidery integrates a variety of fine artistic embroidery stitches, including flat embroidery, cross-stitch embroidery, pointe embroidery, lock embroidery and so on. In addition, Xia cloth embroidery also inherits traditional needlework such as seed embroidery, plain needlework and yarn embroidery on folk linen embroidery, and integrates fine needlework such as penetrating needlework, transparent chaotic needlework and sesame needlework to form its unique contemporary embroidery art style.




03.

艺术风格

Artistic style






  夏布绣作品色泽古朴,典雅深沉,绣地的特性和夏布绣特有的刺绣工艺及灵活多变的针法,组成了夏布绣独有的语言体系。它融合了夏布自然的肌理及水墨丹青的绘画神韵,使作品具有厚重的历史文化底蕴和鲜明的地域特色。


  The colour of the embroidery works is simple, elegant and deep, and the characteristics of the embroidery land, the unique embroidery process and the flexible stitching form the unique language system of the embroidery. It integrates the natural texture of Xiabu and the charm of ink painting, which makes the works have profound historical and cultural deposits and distinct regional characteristics.






  夏布绣的图案寓意韵味悠长,造型祛繁留简、平面化特征明显,无粗拙之态。无论是繁复的蝶恋花、凤穿牡丹等吉祥图案,还是简练概括的原始混沌艺术造型,都展现了夏布绣独特的艺术魅力。


  The pattern of Xia cloth embroidery implies lasting charm, simple modelling, plain features, and no rough state. Whether it is complicated auspicious patterns such as butterfly and peony or simple and concise primitive, chaotic artistic modelling, it shows the unique artistic charm of Xia cloth embroidery.



04.

应用

Apply






  夏布绣不仅具有极高的艺术价值,还具有广泛的应用前景。它可以制作成各种精美的艺术装饰品,如挂画、屏风、摆件等,用于家居装饰或办公场所装饰


  Xia cloth embroidery not only has a high artistic value but also has a wide range of application prospects. It can be made into a variety of exquisite art decorations, such as hanging pictures, screens, ornaments, etc., for home decoration or office decoration.




  也可以应用于服饰设计中,如旗袍、汉服、围巾、帽子等,增加服饰的独特性和艺术感;还可以作为具有地方特色和文化内涵的手工艺品,制作成手帕、书签、扇子等文化礼品,用于馈赠亲友或作为旅游纪念品。


  It can also be used in clothing design, such as cheongsam, Hanfu, scarf, hats, etc., to increase the uniqueness and artistic sense of clothing. It can also be used as handicrafts with local characteristics and cultural connotations and made into handkerchiefs, bookmarks, fans and other cultural gifts, which are used as gifts to relatives and friends or as tourist souvenirs.


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Accessory



05.

结语

Conclusion






  如今,在夏布绣传承人的努力下,这一古老的传统工艺焕发出了新的生机与活力。他们不仅致力于夏布绣的传承与发展,还不断创新和探索新的艺术表现形式和技艺手法,让夏布绣这一国家级非物质文化遗产得以更好地传承和发扬光大。


  Today, with the efforts of the inheritors of Jiabao embroidery, this ancient traditional craft has shown new vigour and vitality. They are not only committed to the inheritance and development of Jiabao embroidery but also constantly innovate and explore new forms of artistic expression and technical techniques so that Xiabao embroidery, a national intangible cultural heritage, can be better inherited and carried forward.








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