侗族刺绣｜非物质文化遗产

On May 23, 2011, Dong embroidery was approved by the State Council of the People's Republic of China and included in the third batch of the national intangible cultural heritage list, with the heritage number VII-107.

The Dong ethnic group has a long history of weaving and embroidery, which can be traced back to the Baiyue era. Therefore, there is a record in the "Wu Yue Spring and Autumn Annals" of "Yue Luo Gu Sha". Zhuangzi's "Xiaoyao You" said that Baiyue has the custom of "cutting off hair and getting tattoos". Tattoos "originally involved tattooing patterns on the body, and after planting cotton and weaving clothes, they developed into embroidering patterns on clothing.

侗绣是刺绣的一种，侗绣中的精品当属北侗盘轴滚边绣，该绣法仅在锦屏县的平秋、石引、黄门等北部侗族群体中流传。盘轴滚边绣是纯手工制作，历经作模、打面浆、粘布、拟模、贴面、镶边和绣花等数十道工序。

Dong embroidery is a type of embroidery, and the masterpiece of Dong embroidery is undoubtedly the North Dong Pan Axis Rolling Edge Embroidery. This embroidery method is only spread among the northern Dong ethnic groups such as Pingqiu, Shiyin, and Huangmen in Jinping County. Pan-axis rolling edge embroidery is purely handmade, going through dozens of processes such as moulding, surface coating, fabric sticking, mould fitting, veneering, edging, and embroidery.

“盘轴滚边绣”基本绣法由“盘轴绣”和“滚边绣”两种刺绣方法组合而成。

一般的绣品是由三道“盘轴绣”和一道“滚边绣”构成，在花纹的轮廓中间以同样的手法用色线填绣。

“盘轴绣”是取一根彩色丝线作为“引线”，即“轴线”；再取两根彩色丝线将其紧密缠绕在一起，使之成为较粗的二合一的预制绣线，也称“盘线”。绣制时，将“引线”从纹样底面向上绣、拉直；用“盘线”在“引线”根部绕一圈，拉紧；将此过程反复进行，绣出花纹的轮廓，为“盘轴绣”。

“滚边绣”是取一根白纱线作“引线”，再取两根白纱线将其紧密地缠绕在一起，然后将这根二合一的白沙线紧密地缠绕在“引线”上，使之成为一条较粗的三合一的绣线，将其在“盘轴绣”的花纹图案轮廓周围绣（滚）上一道边，为“滚边绣”。

彩线颜色为红、绿、蓝、紫、黄、白等，彩素结合，冷暖相宜，尤其在刺绣品上用金丝银线滚边、点缀许多小圆形亮片，更显得花团锦簇，灿烂夺目。

常见有几何纹、十字纹、龙凤纹、花草纹、牛马纹、树木纹、鸟兽纹、虫鱼纹、干栏纹、谷穗纹、云雾山泉纹，中间夹以花朵、蜂蝶、鸟兽等。

The colours of the coloured threads include red, green, blue, purple, yellow, white, etc. The combination of colours and elements is suitable for both cold and warm. Especially in embroidery, gold and silver threads are used to roll the edges and embellish many small circular sequins, making it look more colourful and dazzling.

Common patterns include geometric patterns, cross patterns, dragon and phoenix patterns, flower and grass patterns, cow and horse patterns, tree patterns, bird and animal patterns, insect and fish patterns, dry railing patterns, grain ear patterns, cloud and mist mountain spring patterns, with flowers, bees, butterflies, birds and animals sandwiched in between.

Dong embroidery is not only a traditional handicraft but also has high artistic value and practical functions. With the rapid development of tourism in Sanjiang Dong Autonomous County, Guangxi, Dong embroidery, a folk handicraft that was once on the brink of extinction, has been inherited and developed. More and more people are learning this traditional handicraft, and Dong embroidery has not only become a local speciality industry but also attracted the attention of domestic and foreign tourists. Nowadays, Dong women express their love for life and longing for a better life through embroidery, and embroidery skills are constantly innovating and developing.