顾绣 | 非物质文化遗产

文摘   2024-11-13 09:02   河北  











顾绣

Gu Embroidery






 Part 1


据明代崇祯年间《松江县志》记载:

“顾绣,斗方作花鸟,香囊做(作)人物,刻划精巧,为他郡所未有。”


According to the Ming Dynasty Chongzhen, "Songjiang County records" recorded: "Gu embroidery, square for flowers and birds, sachet do (do) characters, exquisite carving, for his county has not."





顾绣,又称“露香园顾绣”、“画绣”,中国传统刺绣工艺之一,是上海地区工艺品中的瑰丽奇珍,也是我国历史上最著名的刺绣艺术流派之一。2006年5月20日,经中华人民共和国国务院批准列入第一批国家级非物质文化遗产名录。


Gu embroidery, also known as "Lu Xiang Yuan Gu embroidery" and "painting embroidery", is one of the traditional Chinese embroidery crafts. It is also one of the most famous embroidery art schools in the history of China. On May 20, 2006, it was approved by The State Council of the People's Republic of China to be included in the first batch of the national intangible cultural heritage list.




顾绣起源于明代上海老城厢的顾氏家族,由明嘉靖三十八年松江府进士顾名世家族缪氏、韩希孟、顾兰玉三位女性创造、发展和传播。它是唯一以家族冠名的绣艺流派,有“绣艺之祖”之称,以技法精湛、形式典雅、艺术性极高而著称于世。


Gu Embroidery originated from the Gu family in the old city of Shanghai in the Ming Dynasty and was created, developed and spread by three women, Miao, Han Ximeng and Gu Lanyu, who were scholars of the Gu Mingshi family in Songjiang Prefecture in the 38th year of Jiajing in the Ming Dynasty. It is the only school of embroidery art named by the family, known as the "ancestor of embroidery art", known for its exquisite techniques, elegant form and high artistry.



Part 2


半绣半绘,画绣结合:顾绣以宋元名画中的山水、花鸟、人物等杰作作为摹本,画面均是绣绘结合,以绣代画,这也是它最为独特之处。


Half embroidery and half painting, painting and embroidery combination: Gu embroidery in the Song and Yuan famous paintings of landscapes, flowers and birds, figures and other masterpieces as copies, the picture is a combination of embroidery and painting, with embroidery painting, which is also its most unique.


针法多变,时创新意:顾绣的针法复杂且多变,一般有齐针、铺针、打籽针、接针、钉金、单套针、刻鳞针等十余种针法。


The needlework is varied and innovative: the needlework of Gu embroidery is complex and changeable, and there are generally more than ten kinds of needlework, such as levelling needle, laying needle, seed needle, needle joint, gold nail, single set needle, and scale-carving needle.



间色晕色,补色套色:顾绣采用的种种彩绣线,是宋绣中所未见过的正色之外的中间色线。顾绣为了更形象地表现山水人物、虫鱼花鸟等层次丰富的色彩效果,采用景物色泽的老嫩、深浅、浓淡等各种中间色调,进行补色和套色,从而充分地表现原物的天然景色。


The secondary colour, complementary colour sets: all kinds of coloured embroidery lines used in Gu embroidery are intermediate colour lines that have not been seen in Song embroidery. To show the rich colour effects of landscape figures, insects, fish, flowers and birds more vividly, Gu Embroidery uses various intermediate tones such as the old and tender, dark and dark colour of the scenery to complement and colour, to fully express the natural scenery of the original object.



 Part 3


顾绣的美学风格深受上海文化的影响,它将中国传统绘画、书法、诗词等艺术形式的精髓融入其中,同时又大胆吸收了外来文化的精华,形成了独具特色的艺术风格和韵味。


Gu Embroidery's aesthetic style is deeply influenced by Shanghai culture. It integrates the essence of traditional Chinese painting, calligraphy, poetry and other art forms while boldly absorbing the essence of foreign culture to form a unique artistic style and charm.




“顾绣"从一开始就有别于苏、粤、湘,蜀四大名绣,它专绣书画作品,成为独特艺术。它把宋绣中传统的针法,与国画笔法相结合,以针代笔,以线代墨,勾画晕染,浑然一体,为祖国灿烂的文化艺术增添了异彩。


From the very beginning, "Gu embroidery" is different from the four famous embroideries of Su, Yue, Xiang and Shu. It specialises in painting and calligraphy works and has become a unique art. It combines the traditional needle method in Song embroidery with the brush method of Chinese painting, using the needle as a surrogate, using the line as a substitute for ink, outlining the blur, and adding splendour to the splendid culture and art of the motherland.








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