绒绣 | 非物质文化遗产

文摘   2024-11-26 19:52   天津  











绒绣

Woolen embroidery





 Part 1

绒绣又叫“绒线绣”或“毛绒绣花”,是一种采用彩色羊毛绒线在特制的网眼麻布面料上绣出各种画面和图案的刺绣工艺。


Velvet embroidery, also known as "velvet embroidery" or "plush embroidery", is a kind of embroidery process using coloured wool to embroider various pictures and patterns on special mesh linen fabric.




绒绣起源于欧洲,最早由上海徐家汇教堂的修女于19世纪传入上海。它融合了中国传统刺绣工艺和西方绒绣技艺,形成了多变的针法和拼接工艺,色彩丰富、层次分明、立体感强,被赞为“东方的油画”。


Velvet embroidery originated in Europe and was first introduced to Shanghai by the nuns of Shanghai Xujiahui Church in the 19th century. It is a combination of traditional Chinese embroidery technology and Western embroidery technology, forming a variety of stitching and stitching technology, rich colours, distinct layers, and a strong three-dimensional sense, praised as an "Oriental oil painting".



Part 2


绒绣虽然是刺绣工艺的一种,但与传统的丝绣工艺技术相比,其绒线材料的质地比之丝线显得厚实,使用的针法也不复杂,其具体步骤分为放样、染色配线与绣制。


Although velvet embroidery is a kind of embroidery technology, compared with the traditional silk embroidery technology, the texture of the wool material is thicker than the silk thread, and the needle method is not complicated. The specific steps are divided into lofting, dyeing threading and embroidery.



1.放样:首先,需要将设计图样放大到实际大小的麻布底子上。这个过程通常使用打格子的方法来完成,确保图案的精确性。


Lofting: First, you need to enlarge the design to the actual size of the linen base. This process is usually done using a checkered method to ensure the accuracy of the pattern.



2. 染色配线:根据原稿画面的色彩,进行绒线的染色工作。这一步需要根据色调、色相、色差的区别,染出所需的颜色绒线。


Dyeing and wiring: dyeing the wool according to the colour of the original picture. This step needs to dye the desired colour yarn according to the difference in tone, hue and colour difference.



3. 绣制:绣制过程通常从轮廓开始,然后逐步填充色彩块面,最后进行细部的刻画。绒绣的基本针法是斜点形的打点绣,根据画面的需要,也可以采用乱针、十字针、扒针、掺针、拉毛等不同的针法。


Embroidery: The embroidery process usually starts with the outline, and then gradually fills the colour block surface, and finally carries out the detailed portrayal. The basic needling method of velvet embroidery is diagonal dot embroidery, according to the needs of the picture, it can also use different needling methods such as random needle, cross needle, raking needle, mixing needle and drawing hair.



 Part 3


海派绒绣由于羊毛绒线原料的使用在艺术效果呈现出庄重内敛的特点且具有较强的观赏性。另外,由于海派绒绣的中外交流背景,在题材选择上也往往具有中西融合的特色。


Because of the use of wool yarn raw materials, Haipai cashmere embroidery shows the characteristics of solemn and restrained in the art effect and has a strong appreciation. In addition, due to the Sino-foreign exchange background, the selection of themes often has the characteristics of Chinese and Western fusion.




海派绒绣远观色彩浓郁,层次清晰,立体感强,近赏色彩丰富有变化,层次复杂而分明。整个面面由多种色彩交融汇合,通过人们视觉感官的反映,形成独特的复色艺术效果。


Haipai cashmere embroidery is rich in colour, clear in level, strong in the three-dimensional sense, rich in colour and change in near view, complex and distinct in level. The whole aspect consists of a variety of colours blending and merging, which forms a unique multi-colour artistic effect through the reflection of people's visual senses.


1

绒绣


海派绒绣作品不反光,视觉效果柔和,质感厚实稳重、富丽高贵。无论观赏者从正面还是侧面观赏作品,都有良好的视觉效果。从画稿到绒绣并非是被动地效仿和临摹,而是一个再创作过程,它既要符合原作的精神又要表达出绣制者的理解和个性。不同题材、尺幅的绒绣作品可适用干各种类型楼、堂、馆、斤、室的陈列布置,其艺术效果是其他画种难以比拟的。


Hai Pai embroidery works do not reflect, the visual effect is soft, and the texture is thick and stable, rich and noble. Whether the viewer watches the work from the front or the side, there are good visual effects. From painting manuscripts to embroidery, it is not a passive imitation and copying but a re-creation process, which should not only conform to the spirit of the original but also express the understanding and personality of the embroiderer. Embroidery works of different themes and sizes can be applied to the display arrangement of various types of buildings, halls, pavilions, catties and rooms, and its artistic effect is incomparable to other paintings.









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  排版 Editor|Stella 

校对 Proof|Eve   

审核Reviewer | Eve 

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