黎族纺染织绣丨传统手工艺丨东方美学

文摘   2024-11-03 22:39   天津  

  黎族传统纺染织绣技艺

Traditional spinning, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery techniques of the Li ethnic group.


黎族传统纺染织绣技艺

是中国海南省黎族妇女创造的一种纺织技艺,

它集纺、染、织、绣于一体,

用棉线、麻线和其他纤维等材料做衣服

和其他日常用品。


Traditional spinning, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery techniques of the Li ethnic group

It is a textile technique created by Li ethnic women in Hainan Province, China,

It integrates spinning, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery,

Using materials such as cotton thread, hemp thread, and other fibres to make clothes

And other daily necessities.



黎族的纺染织绣技艺,

涵盖了纺丝、染彩、织布、绣花等多个环节。

她们会用这些五颜六色的纱线编织成各种图案的围巾、头巾、衣服等,

展现出独特的艺术风格。

在织布过程中,

黎族妇女们巧妙地运用织机,

将不同颜色的丝线交织成独具特色的纹样。


The spinning, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery skills of the Li ethnic group,

It covers multiple stages, such as spinning, dyeing, weaving, embroidery, etc.

They will weave various patterns of scarves, headscarves, clothes, etc., with these colourful yarns,

Showcasing a unique artistic style.

During the weaving process,

Li women skillfully use weaving machines,

Interweaving threads of different colours into unique patterns.




HISTORY

历史背景

▷▷01



起源:

黎族传统纺染织绣技艺历史悠久,

早在春秋战国时期,

黎族就懂得用木棉纤维纺织衣服,

至今已有3000年左右的历史。

古代发展:

秦汉时期,

已有精美“广幅布”被征为“岁贡”珍品。

宋代,

黎族纺织已有很高的水平。

元代,

黄道婆流落崖州,

向黎族妇女学习纺织技艺,

之后加以改进,

黎族纺织工艺因此传播全国。

明代,

黎族与汉族的纺织技术互相交流。

清代,

黎锦“机杼精工,

百卉千华”是国内外贸易的珍品。


Origin:

The traditional spinning, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery techniques of the Li ethnic group have a long history,

As early as the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period,

The Li ethnic group knows how to use kapok fibre to weave clothes,

It has a history of about 3000 years.

Ancient development:

During the Qin and Han dynasties,

Exquisite 'wide cloth' has already been requisitioned as a precious' annual tribute '.

In the Song Dynasty,

The textile industry of the Li ethnic group has reached a high level.

In the Yuan Dynasty,

Huang Daopo wandered to Yazhou,

Learn textile skills from Li ethnic women,

Afterwards, improvements will be made,

The textile craftsmanship of the Li ethnic group has, therefore, spread throughout the country.

In the Ming Dynasty,

The textile technology of the Li and Han ethnic groups exchanged with each other.

In the Qing Dynasty,

Li Jin's exquisite craftsmanship,

A hundred flowers and a thousand flowers "are treasures of domestic and international trade.







 现代传承:

1950年代,

掌握黎族传统纺染织绣技艺的人大多年事已高,

随着黎族妇女相继谢世,

人去技亡,黎锦工艺传承、

记录、整理和研究已十分紧迫。

1981年4月,

广东省海南黎族苗族自治州人民政府组织进行“抢救、

挖掘、整理、开发”黎族传统织锦工艺八字方针。

2000年-2004年,

全国两会黎族代表应广大黎族人民的要求,

向全国人大和全国政协两会分别两次提案,

要求国家保护海南黎族织锦技艺。

在政府的领导下,

黎族文化保护工作者与喜爱黎族文化

的人们一直在为黎族纺织技艺的传承做出努力


Modern Inheritance:

In the 1950s,

People who have mastered the traditional spinning, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery skills of the Li ethnic group have achieved great success for many years,

As Li women passed away one after another,

People lose their skills, Li brocade craftsmanship inherits

Recording, organising, and researching are extremely urgent.

In April 1981,

The People's Government of Hainan Li and Miao Autonomous Prefecture in Guangdong Province organised a rescue operation.

Exploring, organising, and developing the traditional weaving techniques of the Li ethnic group.

From 2000 to 2004,

At the National People's Congress and the Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference, representatives of the Li ethnic group should respond to the demands of the majority of the Li people,

We made two proposals to the National People's Congress and the two sessions of the National Committee of the Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference,

Request the state to protect the weaving skills of the Li ethnic group in Hainan.

Under the leadership of the government,

Li ethnic cultural protection workers and their love for Li ethnic culture

People have been making efforts to inherit the textile skills of the Li ethnic group.






工艺特征


02◁◁



原料:

黎族纺织使用原料主要有植物麻、

木棉花和草本吉贝棉花。

工序:

黎族传统纺染织绣技艺主要有纺、染、织、绣四道工序。

品种:

黎族织染技艺特点鲜明,

有麻织、棉织、织锦、印染(包括扎染)、

刺绣、龙被等品种。

图案:

黎族织锦图案丰富多彩,

有160种以上,

主要有人物、动物、植物、花卉、生活用具、

几何图案等纹样,

而以人物、动物、植物图案为主。


Raw materials:

The main raw materials used in Li ethnic textiles are plant hemp

Cotton flowers and herbaceous Gibberet cotton.

Process:

The traditional spinning, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery techniques of the Li ethnic group mainly include four processes: spinning, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery.

Varieties:

The Li ethnic group has distinct characteristics in weaving and dyeing techniques,

There are hemp weaving, cotton weaving, brocade weaving, printing and dyeing (including tie-dyeing)

Embroidery, dragon quilt and other varieties.

Pattern:

The Li ethnic group's brocade patterns are rich and colorful,

There are over 160 types,

Mainly including characters, animals, plants, flowers, daily necessities

Geometric patterns and other patterns,

Mainly featuring patterns of characters, animals, and plants.





 分类:

龙被:

龙被是黎锦中的珍品,

它集纺织、印染、刺绣、织造等多种技艺于一体,

制作精巧,色彩鲜艳,图案典雅,款式多样,

在黎锦中技艺最为突出、文化艺术价值最高,

因而成为海南地区历代进贡的珍品。

黎锦:

黎锦有单联幅、双联幅、三联幅、

四联幅、五联幅5种款式,

内容丰富,题材广泛,具有强烈的艺术震撼力。


Category:

Dragon is:

The dragon quilt is a precious treasure of Li Jinzhong,

It integrates various skills such as textile, printing and dyeing, embroidery, weaving, etc,

Exquisite production, bright colours, elegant patterns, diverse styles,

Li Jinzhong has the most outstanding skills and the highest cultural and artistic value,

Therefore, it has become a precious tribute item in the Hainan region throughout history.

Li Jin:

Li Jin has single, double, and triple banners

There are five styles: quadruple and quadruple,

The content is rich, the themes are diverse, and it has a strong artistic impact.




AUTUMN





PRODUCTION PROCESS

制作工序

▷▷ 03



纺纱:

主要工具有手捻纺轮和脚踏纺车。

手捻纺纱是人类最古老的纺纱工艺,

工艺使用的工具为纺轮。

黎族聚居区有极为丰富的木棉、野麻等纺织原料。

在棉纺织品普及之前,

野麻纺织品在黎族地区盛行。

人们一般在雨季将采集的野麻外皮扒下,

经过浸泡、漂洗等工艺,渍为麻匹。

麻匹经染色后,用手搓成麻纱,

或用纺轮捻线,然后织成布。

野麻布质地坚实,

多用于制作劳动时穿着的外衣和下裳。


Do spinning:

The main tools are hand-spinning wheels and foot-spinning wheels.

Hand-twisted spinning is the oldest spinning technique of human beings,

The tool used in the process is a spinning wheel.

The Li ethnic settlement area has extremely abundant textile materials such as kapok and wild hemp.

Before the popularisation of cotton textiles,

Wild hemp textiles are popular in Li ethnic areas.

People usually peel off the outer skin of the wild hemp they collect during the rainy season,

After soaking, rinsing and other processes, the stain is made of hemp.

After dyeing the hemp, rub it into hemp yarn by hand,

Or twist the thread with a spinning wheel and weave it into fabric.

Wild hemp cloth has a solid texture,

Commonly used for making outerwear and undergarments worn during labour.






 染色:

染的常用野板栗树皮、苏木、

黄姜茎、枫树皮和叶谷木叶、

木蓝的茎叶、蓝靛叶、

乌墨树皮和根、牛椎树皮等植物染料;

也有用动物血液、

牛皮胶和朱砂粉等矿物染料。

美孚方言黎族创造絣染(俗称“扎染”),

先扎经后染线再织布,

把扎、染、织的工艺巧妙地结合一起,

在我国是独一无二的。


 

Staining:

Commonly used dyes include chestnut bark, sappan

Yellow ginger stems, maple bark, and leaf valley wood leaves

Wood blue stems and leaves, indigo leaves

Plant dyes such as black ink bark and roots and cowhide bark;

Also useful is animal blood

Mineral dyes such as cowhide glue and cinnabar powder.

Meifu dialect Li ethnic group created tie dye (commonly known as "tie dye"),

First, tie the warp, then dye the thread, and then weave the fabric,

Cleverly combining the techniques of tying, dyeing, and weaving together,

It is unique in our country.





织布:

织机主要为腰机。

织者席地而坐,腰系织机腰带,

双足踩住经线的木棍,

引纬线竹针在经线中来回穿梭,

用打纬刀把纱线打紧。

织物上的花纹图案没有现成的稿样,

全部出自了然于心又切合习俗规矩的腹稿。


Weaving:

Weaving machines are mainly waste machines.

The weaver sits on the ground, wearing a loom belt around their waist,

Step on the wooden stick with both feet on the warp,

Bamboo needles shuttle back and forth along the meridians,

Tighten the yarn with a knitting knife.

There is no ready-made sample of the pattern on the fabric,

All of them are original and in line with customs and rules.




 刺绣:

在织物上,按照构思的图案,

以针引各种彩线进行穿刺成各种彩色图案。

刺绣分为单面绣和双面绣。

单面绣是只在织物的正面刺绣图案。

主要的针法有平绣、贴布绣、珠绣等。

双面绣是用色线在面料的正反两面绣制同样花纹图案和颜色的技艺。


Embroidery:

On the fabric, according to the designed pattern,

Using needles to puncture various coloured threads into various coloured patterns.

Embroidery is divided into single-sided embroidery and double-sided embroidery.

Single-sided embroidery is the process of embroidering patterns only on the front of a fabric.

The main needlework methods include flat embroidery, patch embroidery, bead embroidery, etc.

Double-sided embroidery is the technique of using coloured threads to embroider the same pattern and colour on both sides of a fabric.




VALUE

传承价值

04◁◁



历史价值:

黎族传统纺染织绣技艺是黎族历史

和传统文化艺术的“活化石”,

对研究历史、赏古老艺术和生活实用、

发展经济都有重要作用。

艺术价值:

黎族传统纺染织绣技艺具有独特的

艺术风格和审美价值,

是中国民族工艺的重要组成部分。


Historical value:

The traditional spinning, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery techniques of the Li ethnic group are part of their history

And the 'living fossil' of traditional culture and art,

For researching history, appreciating ancient art, and practical life

Economic development plays an important role.

Artistic value:

The traditional spinning, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery skills of the Li ethnic group have unique characteristics

Artistic style and aesthetic value,

It is an important component of Chinese ethnic crafts.





文化价值:

黎族传统纺染织绣技艺是黎族文化的重要载体,

是黎族人民民族身份和文化认同的显著符号。

经济价值:

黎族传统纺染织绣技艺的传承和发展,

有助于推动当地经济的发展,

促进就业和增收。


Cultural Value:

The traditional spinning, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery techniques of the Li ethnic group are important carriers of Li culture,

It is a prominent symbol of the ethnic identity and cultural identity of the Li people.

Economic value:

The inheritance and development of traditional textile, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery skills of the Li ethnic group,

Helps promote the development of the local economy,

Promote employment and increase income.




AUTUMN





SIGNIFICANCE

意义

04◁◁



黎族传统纺染织绣技艺

是中国民族文化的瑰宝,

具有重要的历史、文化、艺术和经济价值。

我们应该加强对黎族传统纺染织绣技艺的保护和传承,让这一古老的技艺在新时代焕发出新的活力。


Traditional spinning, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery techniques of the Li ethnic group

It is a treasure of Chinese national culture,

Has significant historical, cultural, artistic, and economic value.

We should strengthen the protection and inheritance of the traditional textile, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery skills of the Li ethnic group,

Let this ancient skill shine with new vitality in the new era.



黎族的纺染织绣技艺,

不仅仅是手工艺品,

更是民族文化的载体。

黎锦、黎裙、黎帕等传统服饰,

既体现了黎族的生活方式,

又蕴含了丰富的文化内涵。

在黎族社会中,

纺染织绣技艺不仅是一项经济活动,

更是一种社会地位的象征。

黎族妇女们凭借此技艺,

成为了家庭和社会的重要成员,

享有崇高的地位和尊重。

她们的智慧和辛勤劳动,

为黎族文化的传承和发展做出了巨大的贡献。


The spinning, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery skills of the Li ethnic group,

Not just handicrafts,

It is also a carrier of national culture.

Traditional costumes such as Li brocade, Li skirt, and Li pa,

It not only reflects the lifestyle of the Li ethnic group,

It also contains rich cultural connotations.

In the Li ethnic society,

Spinning, dyeing, weaving, and embroidery skills are not only an economic activity,

It is also a symbol of social status.

Li women use this skill to,

Becoming an important member of the family and society,

Enjoy high status and respect.

Their wisdom and hard work,

Has made significant contributions to the inheritance and development of Li ethnic culture.






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排版 Editor | Kam

校对 Proof | Eve

审核 Reviewer | Eve

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