挑花绣|非物质文化遗产

文摘   2024-10-29 09:01   天津  

挑花绣

Pickled embroidery


挑花,抽纱工种的一种,亦指刺绣的一种针法,中国民间传统手工艺。也称“挑织”、“十字花绣”、“十字挑花”。挑花是一种具有极强装饰性的刺绣工艺。

在棉布或麻布的经纬线上用彩色的线挑出许多很小的十字,构成各种图案。一般挑在枕头、桌布、服装等上面,作为装饰。挑花在我国历史悠久,流行地区较广,尤为普遍。

Picking flowers, a type of embroidery technique also refers to a traditional Chinese folk handicraft. Also known as "picking weaving", "cross stitch embroidery", or "cross stitch embroidery". Picking flowers is a highly decorative embroidery technique.

Pick out many small crosses on the warp and weft lines of cotton or linen with coloured threads to form various patterns. Usually picked on pillows, tablecloths, clothing, etc., as decoration. Picking flowers has a long history in China, is widely popular in various regions, and is particularly common.




Pickled embroidery




挑花绣

Pickled embroidery



黄梅挑花是挑花绣中的一个重要代表,起源于唐宋,发展成熟于明末清初。黄梅挑花以其精细的工艺和丰富的图案著称,常以凤穿牡丹、双龙抢宝等吉祥图案为主题,具有很高的艺术价值和收藏价值。

Huangmei Tiaohua is an important representative of Tiaohua embroidery, which originated in the Tang and Song dynasties and developed and matured in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. Huangmei Tiaohua is known for its exquisite craftsmanship and rich patterns, often featuring auspicious patterns such as phoenix-wearing peonies and double dragons competing for treasures. It has high artistic and collectable value.


除了黄梅挑花,其他地区的挑花绣也有其独特的魅力和历史。例如,湖南隆回花瑶挑花、安徽望江挑花、溆浦花瑶挑花、罗泾十字挑花等,这些地区的挑花绣不仅展现了不同地域的风土人情,也反映了中国丰富的民族文化和审美情趣。


In addition to Huangmei embroidery, embroidery in other regions also has its unique charm and history. For example, Hunan Longhui Huayao Embroidery, Anhui Wangjiang Embroidery, Xupu Huayao Embroidery, Luojing Cross Embroidery, etc. These regions' embroidery not only showcases the customs and traditions of different regions but also reflects China's rich ethnic culture and aesthetic taste.




挑花绣的绣法

Embroidery technique





1. Prepare tools: embroidery needles, embroidery threads, scissors, embroidery cloth, and drawings. Embroidery fabric is usually a cotton or linen fabric with distinct warp and weft, and the embroidery thread is selected in the corresponding colour according to the design.

2. Start embroidering: First, start embroidering from the centre position of the embroidery fabric. The basic needlework of embroidery is cross stitch, which means picking out an "X" - shaped stitch on the warp and weft lines of the embroidery fabric.

3. Pattern design: The pattern of embroidery is usually composed of small crosses, which can be geometric shapes, animals, flowers, etc. Before embroidery, it is necessary to conceive patterns in one's mind or refer to drawings for embroidery.

4. Counting yarns and picking embroidery: One characteristic of picking embroidery is the need for precise counting of yarns. Embroidery workers need to determine the position of stitches based on the warp and weft lines of the base fabric to embroider neat patterns,

5. Embroidery thread processing: When embroidering thread, pay attention to the direction and length of the thread,

Ensure that the embroidery surface is smooth and aesthetically pleasing. The embroidery thread should not be too long to avoid affecting the speed and quality of the embroidery,

6. Needle retraction: After the embroidery is completed, the embroidery thread needs to be retracted, usually by tying a knot on the back and cutting it off.





1.准备工具:绣针、绣线、剪刀、绣布和图纸。绣布通常是经纬分明的棉布或麻布,绣线则根据设计选择相应的颜色。

2.开始绣制:首先,从绣布的中心位置开始绣制。挑花绣的基本针法是十字挑针,即在绣布的经纬线上挑出一个“X”形的针迹。

3.图案设计:挑花绣的图案通常是由小十字组成,可以是几何图形、动物、花卉等。绣制前,需要在脑海中构思图案,或者参考图纸进行绣制。

4.数纱挑绣:挑花绣的一个特点是需要精确数纱,绣工需要根据底布的经纬线来确定针迹的位置,从而绣出整齐的图案,

5.绣线处理:绣线时,要注意绣线的走向和长度,

确保绣面的平整和美观。绣线不要过长,以免影响绣制速度和质量,

6.收针:绣制完成后,需要将绣线收好,通常是在背面打结并剪断。






挑花绣的特色

characteristic


民间挑花多取生动活泼的自然景物和吉祥图案为题材,如凤穿牡丹、双龙抢宝、莲莲(年年)有鱼(余)、鲤鱼跳龙门、麒麟送子、鸳鸯戏荷、迎亲嫁女、福寿三多等。根据绣品装饰部位的不同要求,绣制团花、角花、折枝花和边条花等纹样。各地域、各民族因风尚习俗不同,挑花各具特色。


Folk flower picking often takes vivid and lively natural scenery and auspicious patterns as themes, such as phoenix wearing peonies, double dragons snatching treasures, lotus flowers with fish (surplus) every year, carp jumping over the dragon gate, qilin sending children, mandarin ducks playing lotus flowers, welcoming relatives and marrying daughters, and having three blessings and longevity. According to the different requirements of the decorative parts of the embroidery, embroider patterns such as round flowers, corner flowers, folded branch flowers, and edge stripe flowers. Different regions and ethnic groups have their characteristics in picking flowers due to different customs and traditions.





1‌.湘西苗族挑花‌:是湖南省湘西土家族苗族自治州泸溪县的传统美术,俗称“数纱”。湘西苗族挑花多用于头帕,以当地苗族妇女自己纺纱、织造的“家织布”为面料挑绣而成。常见的图案纹样有双凤朝阳、龙凤呈祥、鲤鱼跳龙门、蝴蝶戏花等六十多种,全部采用蓝线或青线挑绣,线条清晰,具有较高的艺术审美和研究价值‌。

‌2.陕南挑花‌:陕南挑花的基本针法大致可分为“十字挑花”、“露花”和“架花”三种,其中以十字挑花最为普遍。十字挑花是在平布或麻布上,按经纬线路,依纱眼用绣花线逐眼扣以十字形,组成各种花纹,适用于服装、手帕等的饰物‌。

3.黄梅挑花:又名架子花、十字挑花,广泛流传于湖北省黄梅县。长期以来,经过一代又一代农家妇女的精研细作,这门工艺日臻完善,以明快的色彩组合、精巧的图案构想凸显出独特的艺术表现力。黄梅挑花属挑、补、绣这一民间刺绣的范畴,是在湖北省黄梅县民间长期广泛流传的一种民间工艺,其内容丰富,品种繁多,图案精美,色彩富丽,具有浓郁的地方风格和民族特色。



1‌. Xiangxi Miao Picking Flowers: It is a traditional art form in Luxi County, Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, Hunan Province, commonly known as "counting yarn". Xiangxi Miao ethnic group embroidery is often used for headbands, which are embroidered from "home woven fabrics" spun and woven by local Miao women themselves. There are more than 60 common patterns and designs, including Double Phoenix Rising Sun, Dragon Phoenix Chengxiang, Carp Jumping over Dragon Gate, Butterfly Playing with Flowers, etc. All of them are embroidered with blue or blue thread, with clear lines and high artistic aesthetic and research value.

2. Southern Shaanxi embroidery: The basic needlework of southern Shaanxi embroidery can be roughly divided into three types: "cross embroidery", "dew embroidery", and "frame embroidery", among which cross embroidery is the most common. A cross stitch is a pattern made on flat or linen cloth, arranged in a cross shape by stitching embroidery threads along the warp and weft lines, forming various patterns. It is suitable for accessories such as clothing and handkerchiefs.

3. Huangmei Tiaohua: also known as Jiazihua or Cross Tiaohua, widely spread in Huangmei County, Hubei Province. Over the years, through generations of meticulous research and craftsmanship by rural women, this craft has become increasingly sophisticated, highlighting its unique artistic expression through bright colour combinations and intricate pattern designs. Huangmei Tiaohua belongs to the category of picking, patching, and embroidery, which is a folk craft widely spread in Huangmei County, Hubei Province, for a long time. It has rich content, diverse varieties, exquisite patterns, rich colours, and strong local style and ethnic characteristics.






挑花绣以其精湛的技艺和独特的艺术表现形式,展现出丰富的图案和色彩,具有很高的审美价值。它不仅是一种装饰品,也是中国传统艺术的瑰宝。


Pickled embroidery, with its exquisite craftsmanship and unique artistic expression, showcases rich patterns and colours and has high aesthetic value. It is not only a decorative item but also a treasure of traditional Chinese art.





苗族先民以针线作笔画,以服饰为纸页,将苗族的文化信息以图纹的方式记录在代代相传的苗绣里。这本“无字天书”不仅以瑰丽丰盛的形式之美惊艳世界,还蕴含着古老神秘的文化寓意,令人沉迷‌。


The ancestors of the Miao ethnic group used needle and thread as strokes and clothing as paper, recording the cultural information of the Miao ethnic group in the form of patterns and graphics in the Miao embroidery passed down from generation to generation. This' wordless heavenly book 'not only amazes the world with its magnificent and abundant beauty but also contains ancient and mysterious cultural meanings, making people addicted.



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