破线绣  | 非物质文化遗产

文摘   2024-10-20 12:15   北京  

Broken thread embroidery

苗族

破线绣 



破线绣在苗族传统刺绣领域熠熠生辉,以其精湛工艺与

深厚内涵独领风骚。





Broken thread embroidery

        破线绣





精美/古雅/独特

Broken thread embroidery



源远流长的历史脉络



苗族历史悠久,文化璀璨。刺绣在苗族文化中占据举足轻重的地位,而破线绣作为其中关键技法,其历史可回溯至古代。它曾是苗族贵族服饰的专属绣法,后在民间广泛流传。在苗族的传统服饰、背扇等物件上,破线绣见证着岁月变迁与文化传承。它宛如一部无字史书,记录着苗族人民的生活轨迹与情感寄托。


The Miao ethnic group has a long history and a brilliant culture. Embroidery plays a crucial role in Miao culture, and thread-breaking embroidery, as a key technique, can be traced back to ancient times. It was once the exclusive embroidery technique for the clothing of Miao nobles and later widely spread among the people. On traditional Miao costumes, back fans, and other objects, thread-breaking embroidery witnesses the changes in time and cultural heritage. It is like a wordless historical book, recording the life trajectory and emotional attachment of the Miao people.





Broken thread embroidery

破线绣






独具匠心的工艺特质




(一)丝线处理精巧

绣娘需把彩色丝线破分成多股,常见为四至八股。这一过程要求极高,需确保丝线均匀破开且无断裂,破好后的丝线细如发丝,为后续刺绣筑牢根基。


Exquisite silk processing

The embroiderer needs to break the coloured silk thread into multiple strands, usually four to eight strands. This process requires extremely high standards, ensuring that the silk thread is evenly broken without any breakage. The broken silk thread is as fine as a hair, laying a solid foundation for subsequent embroidery.


(二)平绣针法细腻

运用平绣针法,绣娘用细丝线在底布上绣制图案。针脚细密整齐,绣面平整光滑,几无痕迹,将平绣针法的精妙展现得淋漓尽致。


The flat embroidery technique is delicate and delicate

Using the flat embroidery technique, the embroiderer uses fine silk thread to embroider patterns on the base fabric. The stitches are fine and neat, and the embroidery surface is smooth and even, with almost no traces, showcasing the exquisite craftsmanship of flat embroidery.








(三)色彩搭配巧妙

破线绣在色彩运用上十分讲究。多采用红、蓝、绿、黄等鲜艳颜色,每种颜色皆具特殊象征意义。绣娘巧妙组合色彩,创作出绚丽且富有层次的图案。


Clever colour matching Broken thread embroidery is very particular about using colours. We often use bright red, blue, green, and yellow, each with a special symbolic meaning. Xiu Niang cleverly combines colours to create brilliant and layered patterns.


(四)图案寓意深刻

其图案丰富,涵盖动物、植物、人物、几何图形等。例如蝴蝶被视作祖先化身,象征生命轮回;龙代表权力与威严。这些图案承载着苗族的信仰与价值观。


The pattern has a profound meaning; patterns are rich, covering animals, plants, people, geometric shapes, etc. For example, butterflies are regarded as the embodiment of ancestors, symbolising the cycle of life; Dragons represent power and majesty. These patterns carry the beliefs and values of the Miao ethnic group.

严谨有序的制作流程







(一)材料准备精心

丝线要优质鲜艳,底布常为棉布或麻布,绣针细小锋利,剪刀小巧灵便。

 Carefully prepared materials

The silk thread should be of high quality and bright colours, the base fabric is often cotton or linen, the embroidery needles should be small and sharp, and the scissors should be small and flexible.


(二)图案设计用心

图案可为传统纹样或自主创作。可用铅笔或粉笔在底布上描绘,或用剪纸固定形状。

Design patterns with care

The pattern can be traditional or independently created. Use a pencil or chalk to draw on the bottom cloth, or use Paper Cuttings to fix the shape.


(三)破线环节细心

这是关键步骤,绣娘小心破开丝线,保持清洁整齐,为刺绣做准备。

Careful attention to detail in the breaking process

This is a crucial step. The embroiderer should be careful to break open the silk thread, keep it clean and tidy, and prepare for embroidery.


(四)刺绣过程耐心

以破好的丝线依设计图案刺绣,针针均匀紧密,不容差错。

Patient embroidery process

Embroidery with broken silk thread according to the design pattern, with evenly and tightly knit needles, without any mistakes.


(五)整理修饰精心

完成刺绣后,剪掉线头,熨平绣品,还可添加装饰以增美感。

Carefully organized and decorated

After completing the embroidery, cut off the thread ends, iron out the embroidery, and add decorations to enhance the beauty.





多元丰富的价值呈现

1.文化传承的重要载体:破线绣承载着苗族的历史、传说、信仰等文化元素,是传承民族文化的生动符号。

The important carrier of cultural inheritance: Broken thread embroidery carries cultural elements such as the history, legends, and beliefs of the Miao ethnic group and is a vivid symbol of inheriting national culture.





2.卓越的艺术价值:其工艺精湛,图案绚丽,是苗族妇女智慧与创造力的结晶,具有极高艺术审美价值。

Excellent artistic value: Its exquisite craftsmanship and dazzling patterns are the crystallisation of the wisdom and creativity of Miao women, with extremely high artistic aesthetic value.


3.可观的经济价值:在旅游发展与文化受重视的当下,破线绣绣品成为热门商品,为苗族妇女增收,助力当地经济。

Significant economic value: In the current era of tourism development and cultural importance, thread-breaking embroidery has become a popular commodity, increasing the income of Miao women and boosting the local economy.





传承发展的时代展望






现代社会中,破线绣面临挑战,手工刺绣受机器刺绣冲击,传承者减少。为保护传承这一技艺,需加强宣传推广以提升认知度与保护意识;培养扶持艺人,鼓励年轻人学习;创新设计制作,融合传统与现代,满足现代审美需求,拓展市场,让破线绣在新时代焕发生机,持续绽放光芒。


In modern society, broken thread embroidery faces challenges, and manual embroidery is impacted by machine embroidery, resulting in a decrease in inheritors. To protect and inherit this skill, it is necessary to strengthen publicity and promotion to enhance awareness and protection consciousness; Cultivate and support artists, encourage young people to learn; Innovative design and production, integrating tradition and modernity, meeting modern aesthetic needs, expanding the market, and revitalising broken thread embroidery in the new era, continue to shine.



不只是非遗,更是一种传承

Not only intangible cultural heritage but also a form of inheritance







总结






破线绣作为一种传统的手工艺,在现代社会面临着一些挑战。随着工业化和现代化的进程加快,传统的手工刺绣逐渐被机器刺绣所取代,破线绣的传承面临着困难。同时,由于年轻人对传统文化的兴趣逐渐减弱,愿意学习破线绣的人越来越少,这也给破线绣的传承带来了压力。


As a traditional handicraft, thread-breaking embroidery faces some challenges in modern society. With the acceleration of industrialisation and modernisation, traditional manual embroidery is gradually being replaced by machine embroidery, and the inheritance of broken thread embroidery is facing difficulties. Meanwhile, as the interest of young people in traditional culture gradually weakens, fewer and fewer people are willing to learn thread-breaking embroidery, which also puts pressure on the inheritance of thread-breaking embroidery.


为了保护和传承破线绣这一传统手工艺,需要采取一系列措施。首先,要加强对破线绣的宣传和推广,提高人们对破线绣的认识和了解,增强人们对传统文化的保护意识。其次,要加强对破线绣艺人的培养和扶持,鼓励更多的年轻人学习破线绣,为破线绣的传承注入新的活力。最后,要创新破线绣的设计和制作,将传统与现代相结合,开发出更多符合现代人审美需求的绣品,拓展破线绣的市场空间。


To protect and inherit the traditional handicraft of broken thread embroidery, a series of measures need to be taken. Firstly, it is necessary to strengthen the publicity and promotion of thread-breaking embroidery, enhance people's awareness and understanding of thread-breaking embroidery, and strengthen their awareness of protecting traditional culture. Secondly, it is necessary to strengthen the cultivation and support of embroidery artists, encourage more young people to learn embroidery and inject new vitality into the inheritance of embroidery. Finally, we need to innovate the design and production of thread-breaking embroidery, combining tradition with modernity, developing more embroidery products that meet the aesthetic needs of modern people, and expanding the market space of thread-breaking embroidery.


总之,破线绣作为苗族传统刺绣的瑰宝,具有重要的历史、文化、艺术和经济价值。我们应该加强对破线绣的保护和传承,让这一古老的手工艺在现代社会中焕发出新的活力。


In short, as a treasure of traditional Miao embroidery, broken thread embroidery has important historical, cultural, artistic, and economic value. We should strengthen the protection and inheritance of broken thread embroidery so that this ancient handicraft can shine with new vitality in modern society.




内容策划 Presented


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策划Producer| Nora

排版 Editor | Nora

校对 Proof | Eve

审核Reviewer I Eve

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