艾德莱斯绸｜新疆｜非物质文化遗产

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艾德莱丝绸因产地不同而分为两种。喀什、莎车的艾德莱丝绸以色 彩绚丽、鲜艳著称，常用翠绿、宝蓝、黄、桃红、金黄等色，色彩对比强烈，图案细腻严谨。

Adlai silk is divided into two types due to different origins. The Adelie silk of Kashgar and Shache is known for its brilliant and vibrant colours, commonly used in shades such as emerald green, navy blue, yellow, peach red, and golden. The colour contrast is strong, and the patterns are delicate and rigorous.

艾德莱丝绸是新疆极富民族特色的独特产品，是维吾尔族妇女最喜欢做衣裙的绸料。艾德莱斯绸图案纹样有人说说是古代维吾尔人信奉萨满教崇拜树神、水神的宗教意识的反映，也有人说是来自巴旦木纹、梳子纹以及民族乐器变形纹样。

Adelai silk is a unique product with strong ethnic characteristics in Xinjiang and is the favourite silk material for Uyghur women to make clothes and skirts. Some people say that the pattern of Edeles silk is a reflection of the religious consciousness of ancient Uyghurs who believed in Shamanism and worshipped tree and water gods, while others say it comes from Badan wood grain, comb patterns, and deformation patterns of ethnic musical instruments.

和田、洛浦的则讲究黑白效果，虚实变化。纹样粗犷奔放，色彩简洁明快，常采用白底黑花或黑底白花或红白、蓝白兼配以小块金黄、宝蓝做点缀，使色彩简洁而定于变化。

Hotan and Luopu emphasize black-and-white effects and changes in reality and illusion. The patterns are rough and unrestrained, and the colours are simple and bright. They are often decorated with black flowers on a white background, white flowers on a black background, red and white, blue and white, and small pieces of golden and sapphire blue to make the colours simple and varied.

关于中国丝绸的起源，我国古代史籍中流传着不少神话传说,中国丝绸，源远流长,至少在距今5000年的新石器时代，我国长江流域和黄河流域已出现了丝绸的曙光。

Regarding the origin of Chinese silk, many myths and legends are circulating in ancient Chinese historical records. Chinese silk has a long history, and at least 5000 years ago in the Neolithic Age, the dawn of silk appeared in the Yangtze and Yellow River basins of China.

远在公元前七世纪，中国丝绸就已作为珍品馈赠外宾。公元前五世纪，中国丝绸就传到了希腊等遥远的西方国家。

As early as the 7th century BC, Chinese silk had already been given as a precious gift to foreign guests. In the fifth century BC, Chinese silk was introduced to distant Western countries such as Greece.

西汉（公元前二世纪前后），张謇通西域，开辟了从长安（今西安市）经甘肃、新疆，到中亚、西亚，并联结地中海各国的陆上通道，这就是举世闻名的北方丝绸之路。

In the Western Han Dynasty (around the 2nd century BC), Zhang Jian travelled to the Western Regions and opened up a land route from Chang'an (now Xi'an City) through Gansu and Xinjiang, to Central and West Asia, connecting various Mediterranean countries. This is the world-famous Northern Silk Road.

煮茧

接着将整好的丝卷在大轴上再套在手摇转轴上分成均匀的股，由经验丰富的匠人在一股股 丝线平铺成的画稿上作出墨稿：巴旦木，木板纹花，梳子花等。画好后由扎结人进行扎结。

Boiling cocoons

Then roll the finished silk onto the main shaft and place it on the hand-cranked shaft to divide it into even strands. Experienced craftsmen will create ink drafts on flat silk threads, such as almond wood, wood pattern flowers, comb flowers, etc. After drawing, the tying person will tie it up.

染色

依据色彩多少分层分次进行，染料是天然的植物和矿物，花绸最终的效果取决于染色过程中图案轮廓受染液的渗润，其自然形成的色晕，好像用干笔擦出的效果，各种颜色呈现参差错落，疏散而不杂乱的特色，既增加了图案的层次感和色彩的过渡面，又形成纹样富有变化的特色。

dyeing

According to the degree of colour layering and grading, dyes are natural plants and minerals, and the final effect of floral silk depends on the infiltration of dye solution during the dyeing process. The naturally formed colour halo is like the effect of wiping with a dry pen, presenting various colours in a staggered and scattered manner without the disorder, which not only increases the sense of layering and colour transition of the pattern but also forms the characteristic of rich variation in the pattern.

这即为艾德莱丝绸的精髓所在，“艾德莱丝”扎染之意的由来就是因为“一扎一染”是关键所在。色染好后就该“整经”了，即：将扎着的结都剥离，然后将丝晒干的过程。这一切工作都完成以后就该织绸了。在木制织绸机上，随着梭子无数次来回穿梭，艾德莱丝绸就织好了。

This is the essence of Adlai silk, and the origin of the meaning of "Adlai silk" tie dyeing is because "one tie, one dye" is the key. After the colour is dyed, it should be "straightened", that is, the process of peeling off all the tied knots and then drying the silk in the sun. After all this work is completed, it's time to weave silk. On the wooden weaving machine, as the shuttle shuttled back and forth countless times, the Adelie silk was woven.