鱼皮制作技艺 | 非物质文化遗产

        鱼皮制作技艺

                   Fish-skin craftsmanship

赫哲族鱼皮制作技艺，黑龙江省饶河、抚远地方传统手工技艺，国家级非物质文化遗产之一。传统的鱼皮技艺包括一整套复杂的加工过程，分为剥皮、干燥、熟软、拼剪缝合、艺术修饰等步骤。

The fish-skin craft of the Hezhe ethnic group, a traditional handicraft technique in the areas of Ruohu and Fuyuan, Heilongjiang Province, is one of the national intangible cultural heritage. Traditional fish-skin craft includes a complex set of processing steps, including skin peeling, drying, cooking and softening, cutting and sewing, and artistic decoration.

赫哲族主要分布在黑龙江省的饶河、抚远两县，沿江而居的赫哲人仍以渔业为主，不论男女老少，都是捕鱼好手，他们捕鱼、食鱼、用鱼皮盖房、造舟、制衣。鱼皮制品以北方冷水鱼的鱼皮为原料，冷水鱼皮质有一定的厚度和韧性，比较耐磨，便于在生产生活中使用。

The Hezhe people mainly live in Ruihe and Fuyuan counties in Heilongjiang Province. The Hezhe people who live along the river still mainly rely on fishing as their main source of income. Men, women, and children are all skilled fishermen. They catch fish, eat fish, and use fish skin to build houses, boats, and clothing. Fish skin products are made from the skin of cold water fish, which has a certain thickness and toughness, making it more durable and easier to use in daily life.

1、鱼皮袍，赫哲族的鱼皮衣服多用胖头、赶条、草根、鲩鱼、鲟、大马哈、鲤鱼等鱼皮制成，长衣居多，主要是妇女穿用。式样如同旗袍，袖子短肥、腰身窄瘦，身长过膝，下身肥大。领边、衣边、袖口、前后襟等处都绣有云纹或用染色的鹿皮剪贴成云纹或动物图案，并用野花汗染成红、蓝、黑等颜色，风格淳朴浑厚、粗犷遒劲。早年衣下边往往还要缝缀海贝壳、铜铃和缨络珠琉绣穗之类的装饰品，更加别致美观。鱼皮袍等鱼皮服饰具有轻便、保暖、耐磨、防水、抗湿、易染色等特性。特别是在严寒的冬季不硬化、不会蒙上冰。

1. Fish skin robe: Hezhen's fish skin clothes are made of fat head, drive strip, grass roots, grass carp, sturgeon, salmon, carp and other fish skin, and most of them are long clothes, mainly worn by women. The style is similar to that of a cheongsam, with short and fat sleeves, a narrow and thin waist, body length above the knee and fat lower body. The collar edge, clothing edge, cuffs, front and back, etc., are embroidered with more or dyed deer skin cut into more or animal patterns and dyed with wildflower sweat into red, blue, black and other colours, the style is simple and rugged, rugged and strong. In the early years, ornaments such as sea shells, brass bells and tassels embroidered with pearl embroidery were often sewn under the garments to make them more chic and beautiful. Fish skin robes and other fish skin clothing have the characteristics of light, warm, wear-resistant, waterproof, moisture-resistant, easy to dye and so on. Especially in the cold winter, it does not harden and will not be covered with ice. J

2、套裤，赫哲族渔民的鱼皮套裤是用怀头、哲罗或狗鱼皮制成的，分男女两种。一般都是比较肥大的，套在裤子外面，男式的上端为斜口，女式的上端为齐口。主要是捕鱼和劳动时穿的，冬季可抗寒保暖，春秋可防水护膝，大都绣有花纹或镶有花边。

2, over pants, Hezhe fishermen's fish skin over pants is made of Huai head, Zhe Luo or dogfish skin, divided into two kinds of men and women. They are generally fatter, set on the outside of the pants; the upper end of the men's style is diagonal, and the upper end of the women's style is equal to the mouth. It is mainly worn when fishing and working; it can resist the cold in winter and keep warm, and it can be waterproof and knee-pad in spring and autumn. Most of them are embroidered with patterns or inlaid with lace.

     3、半市筒皮靴，既可冬季穿也可夏季穿，具有不受潮湿、不挂霜、不打滑等优点，深受赫哲人喜爱，延续时间最长，使用也最广。冬季穿时，为了      保暖，里边需套上狍皮袜头或絮上乌拉草。

     3, half-the-city leather boots can be worn in winter or summer, with no moisture, no frost, no skid and other advantages, loved by the Hezhe people, have the longest duration and are the most widely used. When wearing in winter, to keep warm, it is necessary to put roe deer skin socks or wula grass.

（一）选料

赫哲人及其先民在长期生活实践中积累了丰富的经验，根据鱼皮的厚薄、软硬等使用特性和自然为种的鱼皮制作不同的衣物和器具。制作刁麻哈鱼、鲤鱼、鲇鱼、草根、鳃条、白鱼、鲢皮制成，也有用哲罗鱼皮和狗鱼皮等鱼皮制作。夏主鳇鱼皮制作，穿前用水泡软，穿后挂起来。

(1) Material selection

Hezhe people and their ancestors have accumulated rich experience in long-term life practice, making different clothes and utensils according to the use characteristics of fish skin, such as thickness, softness and hardness and natural fish skin. Production of diao Maha fish, carp, catfish, grassroots, gills, white fish, and silver carp skin is also useful for zero fish skin and dogfish skin. The summer beluga fish skin is made soft with bubbles before wearing and hung up after wearing.

（二）剥皮剥离鱼皮

是鱼种选好后固定的首道工序。将整条不刮鳞的鱼，先用刃器（木制小刀等，现代多用钢刀）在头身相接处横向划一周，再顺鱼腹竖向划剥。这种划剥，技术性极强，须只穿透鱼皮，而又不刺人鱼肉。然后用一只手拽住鱼头、身、腹相接处的鱼皮一角，另一只手把木刮刀伸进皮肉之间，从头身相接处到尾鳍之前，顺次划剥。剥完一侧，再剥另一侧，最后将两侧的鱼皮一同沿鱼脊背从头至尾撕下来，剥制完毕。

(2) Peeling off the skin of the fish is the first process of fixing the fish after selection. The whole fish without scaling is first drawn horizontally at the point where the head meets the body with a knife (wooden knife, etc., modern steel knife) for a week and then vertically peeled along the belly of the fish. This kind of peeling, highly technical, must only penetrate the skin of the fish and does not sting the fish. Then, use one hand to pull the head, body, and belly of the fish where the skin corner, the other hand put the wooden scraper into the skin between the flesh, head and body to the tail fin before the row. Peel one side, then peel the other side, and finally, tear the skin on both sides along the back of the fish from head to tail, and the stripping is completed.

（三）晾皮

晾干鱼皮，早年是把剥下来的整张鱼木钉钉在屋内墙上，阴干若干日，使其脱才就在火堆旁烘干。后来人们常常将鱼皮贴到仓房围墙的阴凉通风处晾干。

(3) Drying the skin

To dry fish skin, in the early years, the whole piece of fish wood was nailed to the wall of the house and dried for several days before it was taken off and dried by the fire. Later, people often put the fish skin to dry in a cool, ventilated place on the wall of the barn.

（四）熟皮

鱼皮的鞣制熟化，经历了漫长而渐进的发展过程，早年，熟鱼皮是用木槌和木砧，赫哲语分别称为“空库”和“亥日根”。人们将晾干的一张鱼皮叠放在木砧上，用木棒或木槌或木斧（铁器传人后也使用无锋的铁斧）捶打。捶打过程中鱼鳞自然脱落，鱼皮逐渐变软。无鳞鱼皮，如鲟鳇鱼、怀头鱼等；小鳞鱼皮，如哲罗、细鳞、鲢鱼、鲢条、鲑鱼、狗鱼、白鱼、鲤鱼等，都用此种方法。碰到大鳞鱼皮，要先去掉鱼鳞。把刀刃塞进鳞下皮上，用拇指把鳞片按在刀片上，连鳞带刀一并提起，就可以揭下一大片鳞，以此方法将鳞揭光后再熟制。

(4) Cooked skin

The tanning and curing of the fish skin has undergone a long and gradual development process. In the early years, the cooked fish skin was used with a mallet and an anvil, which were respectively called "empty reservoir" and "Heiligen" in the Hezhe language. A dried piece of fish skin was laid on top of an anvil and beaten with a stick or mallet, or a wooden axe (which was also used after the iron was passed from person to person). The scales naturally fall off during the beating, and the skin gradually softens. Scaleless fish skin, such as sturgeon, beluga fish, beluga fish; Small scale fish skin, such as Zhe Luo, fine scale, silver carp, silver carp, salmon, pike fish, white fish, carp, etc., all use this method. When you touch the skin of a large-scale fish, you must remove the scale first. Insert the blade into the bottom skin of the scale, press the scale on the blade with your thumb, and lift the scale and knife together, you can uncover a large scale and then cook the scale in this way.

（五）缝制

熟好的鱼皮即可剪裁和拼缝了。拼缝前，先用刮皮刀将熟好的鱼皮上的杂乱纤维刮干净；将不整齐的边角剪掉；将鱼鳍部位的开缝缝连起来。经过这样的处理之后，再根据鱼皮的花纹走向、颜色深浅，将数张鱼皮拼连成大张。然后再根据穿用者的性别、身材剪裁成片。最后缝合成衣。也有的赫哲老人在做裤子时，随意边剪边缝，看哪一块鱼皮合适放在哪里就拼在那里，并不先拼成大块。

(5) Sewing

The skin is ready to be cut and stitched. Before stitching, use a scraper to clean the messy fibres on the cooked fish skin. Cut off untidy corners; Connect the open seams on the fins. After such treatment, according to the pattern of the fish skin and the colour of the light, several pieces of fish skin are together into a large sheet. The pieces are then tailored to the wearer's gender and body shape. Finally, sew the garment. Some Hezhe old man, when making pants, cut side seams at will, see which piece of fish skin is suitable for where to spell there, not to spell into large pieces first.

（六）定型

定型就是鱼皮服装的艺术加工。鱼皮服装制作的最后一道工序是艺术加工。艺术加工分染色和装饰。

(6) Finalization

Styling is the artistic processing of fishskin clothing. The last step in the production of fish skin clothing is artistic processing. Art processing is divided into dyeing and decoration.

鱼皮制作技艺是赫哲族一种独特的渔猎文化，是赫哲民族历史发展的缩影，也是中国优秀传统文化的重要组成部分。赫哲族鱼皮服饰包括鱼皮袍、套裤、鱼皮靴等种类。此外，一些年轻人利用传统鱼皮剪贴技术创制了现代鱼皮技艺品及鱼皮画，使鱼皮文化延伸到旅游、艺术等领域。赫哲族鱼皮制作技艺是赫哲族人积极适应并改造生活环境的历史见证。

The craft of making fish skin is a unique fishing and hunting culture of the Hezhe nationality, which is the epitome of the historical development of the Hezhe nationality and an important part of Chinese excellent traditional culture. Hezhen's fish-skin clothing includes fish-skin robes, over pants, fish-skin boots and so on. In addition, some young people use traditional fish skin cutting technology to create modern fish skin art products and fish skin paintings so that fish skin culture extends to tourism, art and other fields. Hezhe's fish skin-making technique is the historical witness of the Hezhe people's active adaptation and transformation of the living environment.