谢丽瑜 | 厦门珠绣 | 非遗传承人

非|遗|传|承|人

厦门珠绣

Xiamen Pearl Embroidery

发展历史

1. 起源追溯：起源于唐朝，鼎盛于明清时期， 后解放后一度工艺失传 。

2. 近代发展：20世纪20年代初期，一些华侨从海外带回玻璃珠点缀的绣花拖鞋，厦门民间艺人受启发开始尝试制作珠绣拖鞋 。之后逐渐形成规模，20世纪20 - 30年代，厦门大同路几乎成了珠拖一条街 。上世纪50年代，厦门将民间艺人集中起来，组建厦门珠绣拖鞋厂 。上世纪七八十年代达到发展的高峰，产品远销亚欧美50多个国家和地区 。但在20世纪90年代初走向衰落停产闭厂 。2007年被列为省级非遗保护项目 ，2021年被列入第五批国家级非物质文化遗产代表性项目名录 。

1. Origin tracing: Originating in the Tang Dynasty, it reached its peak during the Ming and Qing dynasties and was lost for some time after liberation.

2. Modern development: In the early 1920s, some overseas Chinese brought back embroidered slippers decorated with glass beads from overseas, and Xiamen folk artists were inspired to try making bead embroidered slippers. Afterwards, it gradually formed a scale, and in the 1920s and 1930s, Datong Road in Xiamen almost became a street called Zhutuo. In the 1950s, Xiamen gathered folk artists and established the Xiamen Pearl Embroidery Slippers Factory. In the 1970s and 1980s, it reached its peak of development and its products were exported to more than 50 countries and regions in Asia, Europe, and America. But in the early 1990s, it began to decline and shut down factories. In 2007, it was listed as a provincial-level intangible cultural heritage protection project, and in 2021, it was included in the fifth batch of representative projects of national intangible cultural heritage.

谢丽瑜

经历方面：

1. 她是土生土长的鼓浪屿人。1975年，18岁的她进入当时的厦门珠拖厂工作。

2. 经历过厦门珠绣繁荣鼎盛时期，厦门珠绣曾是厦门两大创汇大户之一，产品远销亚欧美58个国家和地区。她参与设计了众多珠绣佳作，如《鼓浪春潮》在全国工艺美术最高奖项“百花奖”首届展览和评比中获银杯奖，其设计的“水晶”牌珍珠拖鞋在首届北京国际博览会上荣获金牌奖，“水晶”牌珠绣商标沿用至今。

3. 20世纪90年代后厦门珠绣拖鞋厂倒闭，2007 - 2008年左右她重新拾起珠绣技艺，和同事一起让珠绣重回大众视野。

1. She is a native of Gulangyu Island. In 1975, at the age of 18, she started working at the then Xiamen Zhutuo Factory.

2. Having experienced the prosperous period of Xiamen pearl embroidery, Xiamen pearl embroidery was once one of the two major foreign exchange creators in Xiamen, with products exported to 58 countries and regions in Asia, Europe, and America. She has participated in the design of many pearl embroidery masterpieces, such as "Gulang Spring Tide", which won the silver cup in the first exhibition and appraisal of the National Arts and Crafts Highest Award "Hundred Flowers Award Award", the "Crystal" brand pearl slippers designed by her won the gold medal in the first Beijing International Expo, and the "Crystal" brand pearl embroidery trademark is still in use today.

3. After the closure of the Xiamen Zhuxiu slipper factory in the 1990s, she regained her Zhuxiu skills around 2007-2008 and worked with colleagues to bring Zhuxiu back to the public eye.

传承方面：

1. 2007年厦门珠绣被认定为国家非物质文化遗产省级项目，2021年厦门珠绣被列入国家级非物质文化遗产代表性项目名录。

2. 近年来她和团队致力于珠绣传承，常奔波于各大高校、中小学甚至幼儿园，向青少年普及珠绣文化。

1. In 2007, Xiamen pearl embroidery was recognized as a provincial-level project of national intangible cultural heritage. In 2021, Xiamen pearl embroidery was included in the list of representative projects of national intangible cultural heritage.

2. In recent years, she and her team have been committed to the inheritance of bead embroidery, often travelling to major universities, primary and secondary schools, and even kindergartens to popularize the bead embroidery culture for young people.

工艺特点：

1. 材料：主要原材料为玻璃珠、电光胶片和丝绒等 。

2. 针法技艺：运用凸绣、平绣、串绣、粒绣、乱针绣、竖针绣、叠片绣等多种传统工艺手法 ，绣制出具有浅浮雕式图案。分全珠绣和半珠绣两种，全珠图案构图严谨、密不容针；半珠图案优雅秀美，清新悦目 。

3. 艺术效果：其艺术特点是珠光宝气，晶莹华丽，色彩明快协调，经光线折射又有浮雕效果 。

1. Materials: The main raw materials are glass beads, electro-optical film, and velvet.

2. Needle technique: Using various traditional techniques such as convex embroidery, flat embroidery, string embroidery, grain embroidery, random needle embroidery, vertical needle embroidery, and layered embroidery, embroider patterns with shallow relief. There are two types of embroidery: full-bead embroidery and half-bead embroidery. The full bead pattern has a rigorous composition and is not difficult to stitch; The half bead pattern is elegant and beautiful, fresh and pleasing to the eye.

3. Artistic effect: Its artistic characteristics are sparkling and gorgeous, with bright and coordinated colours, and a relief effect through light refraction.

谢丽瑜的珠绣作品以其新颖别致、富丽堂皇、光彩夺目而著称，尤其是夜间穿着珠绣拖鞋，在灯光照射下，珠子熠熠闪烁，光彩耀人。她的作品不仅具有极高的观赏价值，还具有深厚的文化意义，是对中国传统刺绣技艺的一种继承和发展。

Xie Liyu's bead embroidery works are known for their novelty, magnificence, and dazzling brilliance, especially when wearing bead embroidery slippers at night, under the illumination of lights, the beads shine brightly and brilliantly. Her works not only have extremely high ornamental value but also have profound cultural significance, which is an inheritance and development of traditional Chinese embroidery skills.

厦门珠绣的发展

The Development of Pearl Embroidery in Xiamen

根据目前尚存的珠绣物件和技艺脉络，考证出厦门珠绣技艺从明未清初开始未出现过断层。‍

Based on the existing pearl embroidery objects and techniques, it has been verified that there has been no discontinuity in Xiamen pearl embroidery techniques since the late Ming and early Qing dynasties.

彼时，海外华侨回乡探亲带回了用玻璃珠点缀的绣花衣物和配饰，厦门民间制鞋艺人从中获得灵感，尝试将玻璃珠用珠绣工艺呈现在鞋面上。

如今的珠绣不再局限于拖鞋鞋面，还延伸到服饰、配件、箱包等。而另一方面，为了让这项技艺能持续稳定地传承下去，（从2009年开始，谢丽瑜就和她的团队将珠绣带入高校，培养了大量技艺传承者，其中进入第一梯队的就有近20人。

At that time, overseas Chinese returned to their hometowns to visit relatives and brought back embroidered clothes and accessories decorated with glass beads. Xiamen folk shoemakers drew inspiration from this and attempted to present glass beads on shoe uppers using bead embroidery techniques.

Nowadays, bead embroidery is no longer limited to slipper uppers, but also extends to clothing, accessories, bags, and more. On the other hand, to ensure the continuous and stable inheritance of this skill, Xie Liyu and her team have been bringing pearl embroidery to universities since 2009, cultivating a large number of skill inheritors, among whom nearly 20 have entered the first tier.

谢丽瑜致力于传承厦门珠绣这一非遗技艺。她坚守初心，通过精心教学与创作，将珠绣的精湛工艺与独特魅力传递下去。其作品精美绝伦，吸引众多目光，为厦门珠绣的传承与发展作出重要贡献。‍

Xie Liyu is committed to inheriting the intangible cultural heritage of Xiamen pearl embroidery. She adheres to her original intention and passes on the exquisite craftsmanship and unique charm of bead embroidery through careful teaching and creation. His works are exquisite and unparalleled, attracting a lot of attention and making important contributions to the inheritance and development of bead embroidery in Xiamen.