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枫香染:一种特殊的防染印花工艺,被誉为“画布上的青花瓷”。手艺人用枫香油在织物上描绘花纹,后将织物入缸染色,未被油脂覆盖处显蓝色,染毕去油,被油脂覆盖处显白色花纹。
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【走进枫香染】
Maple Fragrance Dyeing
2008年6月,贵州省惠水县布依族枫香染被列入第二批国家级非物质文化遗产代表性项目名录。布依族族枫香染传统制作技艺保存完整,艺术风格独特,纹样传递规律清晰,图腾绘制精湛,具有非常鲜明的民族传统手工艺特征。享有“近看如工笔画,远观似青花瓷”的盛誉。
据对贵州省惠水县枫香染艺人的调查,从生于清光绪四年(1878年)的第一代枫香染艺人杨正鑫算起已经有三代人了,迄今已有数百年的历史。枫香染手工技艺是当地少数民族人民日常生活的一部份,历经数百余年从未中断,经布依族世代之手一直传承至今。
According to a survey of Fengxiang dyeing artists in Huishui County, Guizhou Province, there have been three generations since the first generation Fengxiang dyeing artist Yang Zhengxin, born in the fourth year of the Guangxu reign of the Qing Dynasty (1878), with a history of hundreds of years. The handmade craft of Fengxiang dyeing is a part of the daily life of local ethnic minorities, which has never been interrupted for hundreds of years and passed down from generation to generation by the Buyi people.
Maple Fragrance Dyeing
枫香染制作技艺的重要原料为枫香油。取枫香油的方法类似割橡胶,用刀斧在枫香树上砍出口子、枫香油便会流出,用容器接纳后,加入水在火上熬制,用丝状棕皮滤掉渣滓,等枫香油飘在水面,取出后再将冷却固化。
Maple oil is an important raw material for the production technique of maple dyeing. The method of taking maple oil is similar to cutting rubber. Use a knife and axe to cut a hole in the maple tree, and the maple oil will flow out. After receiving it in a container, boil water over the fire. Filter out the residue with filamentous brown skin, and wait for the maple oil to float on the water surface. After taking it out, cool and solidify it.
枫香染
枫香油还需要牛油作材料,其作用有二:将牛油加入枫香油中,一是可以增加韧性;二是在染色后便于脱去油脂。
牛油和枫香油按1:1的比例调合,再将调合后的混合油脂固化,以备随时取用。
Maple oil also requires butter as a material, which has two functions: adding butter to maple oil can increase toughness; second to facilitate the removal of oil and fat after dyeing.
Mix butter and maple oil in a 1:1 ratio, and then solidify the mixed oil for immediate use.
Maple Fragrance Dyeing
枫香染图案通常依据当地风俗及日常生活进行创作,寓意多为吉祥美好。
Maple-scented patterns are usually created based on local customs and daily life, with auspicious and beautiful meanings.
Maple Fragrance Dyeing
枫香染
枫香染纹饰主要有铜鼓纹、太阳纹、石榴纹、狼鸡花纹、凤凰纹、反钩藤纹、倒钩藤纹、云钩藤纹、蝴蝶纹、喜鹊纹、梅花印、大瓶花纹、牡丹纹、云纹、满天星、螃蟹纹等。
Fengxiang dyeing patterns mainly include bronze drum patterns, sun patterns, pomegranate patterns, wolf chicken patterns, phoenix patterns, reverse hooked vine patterns, inverted hooked vine patterns, cloud hooked vine patterns, butterfly patterns, magpie patterns, plum blossom patterns, large bottle patterns, peony patterns, cloud patterns, starry sky patterns, crab patterns, etc.
Maple Fragrance Dyeing
枫香染图案取材于民族民间故事、历史的传说和图腾崇拜,取材于大自然和对生活的感悟。枫香染纹饰作为具有丰富象征意义的“视觉语言”,是承载地方叙事的重要载体。
The maple dye pattern is based on ethnic folklore, historical legends, and totem worship, as well as on nature and insights into life. As a visual language with rich symbolic significance, maple floral patterns are an important carrier for carrying local narratives.
一、配置枫香油与染料
通过割枫香树表层的方式采集枫香树脂,采集后在火上熬制,过滤并提炼出表层枫香油脂后冷却凝固。枫香染使用一种名叫蓝靛的植物染料,是通过植物马蓝叶反复浸泡后的色素水和石灰进行5∶1混合调配的方法得到的植物染料。
1. Configure maple oil and dye
Collect maple resin by cutting the surface of maple trees, boiling it over the fire, filter and extracting the surface maple oil, and then cooling and solidifying. Fengxiang dye uses a plant dye called indigo, which is obtained by mixing the pigment water and lime in a 5:1 ratio after repeated soaking of plant indigo leaves.
二、绘制图案
用适量备好的枫香油在炭火上溶解,温度约50至60度,温度过高染色后布面颜色会发黄,过低枫香油则容易凝结不易绘画。用竹签或毛笔蘸取枫香油,在自制的土布上绘制图案。
2. draw a design
Dissolve an appropriate amount of prepared maple oil on a charcoal fire at a temperature of about 50 to 60 degrees Celsius. If the temperature is too high, the colour of the fabric will turn yellow after dyeing, while if the temperature is too low, the maple oil will easily solidify and be difficult to paint. Dip a bamboo stick or brush into maple oil and draw a pattern on a homemade cloth.
三、染缸浸染
将绘制好图案的棉、麻布在染缸中不断上下冷染。经过五至六日的反复浸染晾干直至达到所需的颜色深度。
3. Dyeing vat immersion dyeingContinuously cold-dye the cotton and linen fabrics with pre-drawn patterns in the dyeing vat. Repeated soaking and drying for five to six days until the desired colour depth is achieved.
四、高温脱脂
染色完毕后用沸水脱去油脂,传统方法是:将含碱性的青杠木烧成灰加入沸水中,即可脱掉附在布上的油脂,显出青底蓝、白花的图案。也可用洗衣粉脱脂,可达到同样的效果。
4. High-temperature degreasingAfter dyeing, use boiling water to remove the oil. The traditional method is to burn alkaline green poplar wood into ash and add it to boiling water to remove the oil attached to the cloth, revealing a pattern of blue background and white flowers. You can also use laundry detergent to remove fat, which can achieve the same effect.
五、漂洗和晾晒
脱脂后用清水反复多次漂洗,经过晾干、碾平后整个制作过程大功告成。
5. Rinse and air After degreasing, rinse repeatedly with clean water. After drying and grinding, the entire production process is completed.
Maple Fragrance Dyeing
枫香染图纹清新明快,装饰纹样自成体系,蕴含着丰富的传统文化内涵,记录了少数民族悠久的历史和不可复制的文化,具有较高的学术研究价值,是探索民族文化传承与发展不可多得的“不须出土的文物”。
Fengxiang dyeing patterns are clear, new, and bright, and the decorative patterns form their system, containing rich traditional cultural connotations. They record the long history and irreplaceable culture of ethnic minorities and have high academic research value. They are rare "cultural relics that do not need to be unearthed" for exploring the inheritance and development of ethnic culture.
Maple Fragrance Dyeing
枫香染制作技艺作为一份活态的化石,是古今工艺技艺发展与传承的载体,也是我国非物质文化遗产的重要组成部分。
As a living fossil, the production technique of maple dyeing is a carrier of the development and inheritance of ancient and modern craftsmanship and an important part of China's intangible cultural heritage.
Maple Fragrance Dyeing
Maple Fragrance Dyeing
枫香染,一种具有诗情画意的民间印染技术,图腾绘制精湛、古朴典雅,具有浓厚的民族风情,所用的主要原料是枫香树产的枫香油,因而取名为"枫香染"。
Fengxiang dyeing is a folk printing and dyeing technique with poetic and picturesque elements. The totem painting is exquisite, ancient and elegant, and has a strong ethnic flavour. The main raw material used is maple oil produced by maple trees, hence the name "Fengxiang dyeing".
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