蜀锦
Shu brocade
蚕桑文明在蜀地起源甚早，古蜀第一位先王蚕丛，据说便已教民养蚕。春秋战国时期，《尚书》记载，时人把成都出产的锦专称为“蜀锦”，以示区别。
The sericulture civilization originated very early in the Shu region. The first king of ancient Shu, Cancong, is said to have taught the people how to raise silkworms. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the Book of Documents recorded that the brocade produced in Chengdu was specifically referred to as "Shu brocade" to distinguish it.
Shu brocade
文化／传承
蜀锦
Shu brocade
Early Shu brocade mainly featured multiple warp threads with floral patterns (Jing brocade), and the variety became increasingly diverse after the Tang Dynasty. The patterns of Sichuan brocade in the Tang Dynasty include checkered flowers, patterned lotus flowers, turtle shell flowers, pearls, and patterns of birds and beasts, which are very rich. In the late Tang Dynasty, patterns such as Tianxia Yue, Chang'an Bamboo, Fang Sheng, Yi Nan, Lion Dance, and Ba Da Huan were added. Emperor Xuanzong of Tang, Li Longji, sought refuge in Shu, causing resentment among the soldiers. He used 100000 pieces of Shu brocade to boost morale.
早期的蜀锦以多重经丝起花（经锦）为主，唐代以后品种日趋丰富。唐代蜀锦的图案有格子花、纹莲花、龟甲花、联珠、对禽、对兽等，十分丰富。在唐末，又增加了天下乐、长安竹、方胜、宜男、狮团、八答晕等图案。唐玄宗李隆基入蜀避难，士兵皆有怨气，唐玄宗乃用蜀锦十万匹重振士气。
Intangible cultural heritage
Production process
1. Knotting: This is a basic skill for weavers and the first hurdle in learning handmade brocade weaving. Within one minute, use extremely fine silk thread to make twelve knots and cut off the ends of the thread to make it look like it has never been broken to pass.
2. Playing the yu: The skill that emphasizes the coordination of the body the most. Pull the thread with your left hand and make short forward and backward movements, while turning the spinning wheel with your right hand. Make different numbers of you according to the need to make horizontal lines.
3. Pulling flowers: Pulling flowers from thousands of slightly thicker threads to lift the warp threads on the loom. The strength should be appropriate, and the longitude should not be raised too high, as it is prone to breakage; Cannot be too short, unable to shuttle through. The wire should be laid out cleanly, otherwise, many fibres will be tangled together.
1.打结：这是织工的基本技能，也是学习手工织锦的第一道关。在一分钟内，用极细的丝线打出十二个结并剪掉线头，使其看上去像从来没断的才能及格。
2.打竽儿：最注重身体协调性的技能。左手拽着线做短距离的前后运动，右手转动纺轮。根据需要打出不同股数的竽儿以做纬线。
3.拉花：在万千根稍粗于丝的线中拉花提起织机上的经线。力量要合适，经线不能提得太高，易断；不能太矮，梭过不去。放线要干脆，否则，许多纤线会搅在一起。
4.投梭：脚变换着踩竖脚竿将16面综框轮换升降，双手左右开弓投梭，其间每投一梭要用扣压纬。两者所用力量均非常重要。若力量过重，另一只手很难接到梭，过轻，梭过不去，会割断经线造成经线断裂。否则，成千上万根经线需要人工捞头手工打结。用扣压纬时，由于力量掌握不均会令锦面图案时紧时松而变形。
4. Throwing shuttle: With changing feet, step on the vertical pole to rotate the lifting and lowering of the 16-sided frame. Use both hands to bow and throw the shuttle, and use a button to press the warp for each shuttle thrown. The strength used by both is very important. If the force is too heavy, it will be difficult for the other hand to catch the shuttle. If it is too light, the shuttle will not pass through and will cut the warp, causing it to break. Otherwise, thousands of warp threads would require manual fishing and knotting. When using a button to press the weft, uneven control of force can cause the brocade pattern to become tight and loose, resulting in deformation.
5.转下曲：织工经常必做的一项检查。下到一米深的机坑，转动下曲签防止纤线断裂和缠绕。这项工作一般要用一天的时间。
5. Turning the next curve: a regular check that weavers must do. Go down to a one-meter-deep pit and rotate the lower curved label to prevent fibre breakage and entanglement. This job usually takes one day.
6.接头：织造蜀锦时，丝线会根据天气的变化热胀冷缩，或织造时成千上万次自然摩擦产生丝线疲劳断裂。在遇到经线断裂的情况时，织工就要在让人眼花缭乱的上万根线中找出断掉的丝线并运用所学到的打结技能将其接上。上面提到的只是织造时必需的一些基本技能，最难的是织工在手脚眼耳并用的情况下保持协调和对织机构造的熟悉及装造。
6. Joint: When weaving Shu brocade, the silk threads will expand and contract due to changes in weather, or fatigue and fracture may occur due to thousands of natural frictions during weaving. When encountering a broken warp, the weaver has to find the broken thread among the dazzling tens of thousands of threads and use the knotting skills they have learned to connect it. The above-mentioned are only some basic skills necessary for weaving, and the most difficult one is for the weaver to maintain coordination and familiarity with the weaving mechanism while using hands, feet, eyes, and ears.
文化／传承
Shu brocade
Inheritance value
Shu brocade is an iconic craft of Chengdu, which has earned the titles of "Jincheng" and "Jinguan City" for its abundant production of brocade. The Minjiang River surrounds Chengdu, and Shu brocade is washed in the river water, so the Minjiang River is also known as the "Jinjiang". Shu brocade is rooted in Shu culture and has distinct regional characteristics. As early as the Qin, Han, and Three Kingdoms periods, Shu brocade had already left Sichuan and entered ethnic minority areas, making contributions to economic development, social stability, and national unity. It has witnessed history as a carrier of cultural exchange and trade on the world-renowned North-South Silk Road and has unique cultural value.
蜀锦是成都的标志性技艺，成都以盛产锦而获得“锦城”、“锦官城”的美名。岷江环绕成都，蜀锦濯于江水，故岷江又称“锦江”。蜀锦植根于蜀文化，有着鲜明的地域特色。早在秦汉三国时期，蜀锦已走出四川，进入少数民族地区，为经济发展、社会稳定和民族团结作出了贡献。它在举世闻名的南北“丝绸之路”中作为文化交流及贸易的载体见证了历史，具有独特的文化价值。
Intangible cultural heritage
“Wen Xiu Silkworms and Mulberry Trees originated from the land of Shu, and the silkworms clustered in ancient Shu a wise king”
“文绣蚕桑源蜀地, 蚕丛古蜀一贤王。”
与花楼织机融合在一起的蜀锦织造技艺，从纹样设计、挑花结本到挽花工、织工合作生产，一直秉承古老的传统。其后替代传统织锦的有梭机械织机，其技艺原理与之相同。
The weaving technique of Shu brocade, which is integrated with the Hualou loom, has always adhered to ancient traditions from pattern design, embroidery and knotting to collaborative production between flower rollers and weavers. The shuttle mechanical loom, which later replaced traditional brocade weaving, has the same technical principle.
文化／传承
Shu Brocade
There are many varieties of Shu brocade, including traditional varieties such as Yushi brocade, Fangfang brocade, Pudi brocade, Sanhua brocade, Huanhua brocade, ethnic brocade, Caihuan brocade, and so on.
蜀锦的品种繁多、传统品种有雨丝锦、方方锦、铺地锦，散花锦、浣花锦、民族锦、彩晕锦等等。
蜀锦其价如金主要体制作工艺上。而通常所见在蜀锦大花楼木质机上的两位师傅（拽花工和织手）只是“台前”人员，而“幕后”有许多人的努力和协作对蜀锦的制作完成起到了重要的作用。用蜀锦大花楼木质机织造蜀锦，拽花工和织手须掌握多种技能。
蜀锦大多以经向彩条为基础起彩，并彩条添花，其图案繁华、织纹精细，配色典雅，独具一格，是一种具有民族特色和地方风格的多彩织锦。蜀锦质地坚韧而丰满，纹样风格秀丽，配色典雅不俗。
Shu brocade is as valuable as gold mainly in terms of its production process. However, the two masters (the flower puller and the weaver) commonly seen on the wooden machine of the Shu Brocade Grand Flower Tower are only "front stage" personnel, while the efforts and collaboration of many people behind the scenes have played an important role in the completion of Shu Brocade production. Weaving Shu brocade with the wooden machine of the Shu brocade Dahua Tower requires mastery of various skills by the flower puller and weaver.
Shu brocade is mostly based on warp-coloured strips, with flowers added to the strips. Its patterns are lively, the weaving is fine, the colour matching is elegant, and it is a unique and colourful brocade with ethnic characteristics and local styles. Shu brocade is tough and full of texture, with beautiful patterns and elegant colours.
内容策划 Presented
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策划Producer| JOJO
排版 Editor | JOJO
校对 Proof| Eve
审核Reviewer I Eve
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