在西班牙巴塞罗那的Enigma餐厅中，食客们得以置身于阿尔伯特·阿德里亚（Albert Adrià）的前卫美食世界。这位与兄长费兰·阿德里亚（Ferran Adrià）共同开创了传奇餐厅El Bulli的著名厨师，始终走在烹饪创新的前沿，而Enigma餐厅正是他对未来餐饮体验的一次大胆尝试。餐厅位于巴塞罗那的Eixample区，坐落在Sepúlveda街38号，旨在通过前卫的菜品和感官设计，将食客带入一个未知而神秘的世界。
打破味觉边界
探索前卫体验
Enigma的室内设计出自普利兹克奖得主RCR Arquitectes事务所之手，搭配建筑师Pau Llimona的设计风格，让餐厅内部充满曲线与狭窄通道，形成了如迷宫般的布局。未来感十足的天花板似乎悬浮在空中，营造出一种科幻电影般的冰冻世界氛围，让食客仿佛置身未来餐饮的实验室中。阿德里亚精心策划的就餐空间与他的创新料理相辅相成，旨在提供前所未有的多维度感官体验。
餐厅环境
餐厅环境
GRILLED CUCUMBER WITH HOISIN SAUCE, ALMONDS AND SMOKED YOGURT 烤黄瓜配海鲜酱、杏仁和烟熏酸奶
Vegetarian dish based on a homemade Hoisin sauce made from fresh and dried plums, a dense, aromatic and powerful sauce. We steam the humble cucumbers, taking advantage of the fact that they come vacuum-packed, we hang them so that they weep their internal water and do not deform when we grill them slowly on the skin side, we finish with smoked sour cream, fried almond paste and a spinach leaf with sesame and almond vinaigrette.
这是一道素菜，以自制的海鲜酱为基础，酱料由新鲜和干制的李子制成，浓郁且芳香四溢。我们先将普通黄瓜蒸熟，利用其真空包装的特点，将其悬挂以释放内部水分，以防在慢烤过程中变形。黄瓜皮面朝下缓慢烤制，最后配以烟熏酸奶油、炸杏仁酱以及芝麻杏仁油醋汁拌菠菜叶点缀。
LEMON WITH ALMONDS 柠檬配杏仁
We recognise that we have a weakness for citrus jellies, which are widely used in our work. Achieving the desired texture and flavour is a matter of care rather than skill, and the quality of the lemons must be unquestionable. In this preparation, their acidic flavour and freshness is attenuated by the warm almond milk jelly.
我们对柑橘果冻情有独钟，并广泛应用于我们的作品中。要达到理想的质地和风味，关键在于细致的处理，而非技巧；柠檬的品质必须无可挑剔。在这道料理中，柠檬的酸味与清新被温热的杏仁奶冻所柔和。
CONFIT "TIGER" COD WITH ITS SKIN, CHICKPEAS, AND IBÉRICO BROTH 低温慢煮“虎纹”鳕鱼配鱼皮、鹰嘴豆和伊比利亚火腿高汤
As our customers and friends know, we like to play with words and ingredients as we have always done. Starting with the idea of the tiger shark, named by the stripes on its back that define it. We play at 'striping' the cod skin with nori seaweed, we confit both the cod and the skin separately and with the ibérico ham and chickpea broth we define that the dish is to be eaten with a spoon, something we love. Dishes like this are also needed, summer creates it's style.
正如我们的顾客和朋友所熟知的一样，我们喜欢玩味文字和食材，一如既往地创新灵感。此菜的创意源自虎鲨，它因背部的条纹而得名。我们用海苔在鳕鱼皮上“画出”条纹，分别将鳕鱼肉和鱼皮低温慢煮。搭配的伊比利亚火腿和鹰嘴豆高汤，让这道菜适合用勺享用，这也是我们所钟爱的品尝方式。这样的菜肴在夏日餐单中尤为合适，为其增添独特的风格。
Steamed brioche with clotted cream, fried quail egg & caviar
蒸布里欧修配凝脂奶油、煎鹌鹑蛋和鱼子酱
Pâté en crôute
肉派
CAULIFLOWER, COCONUT AND CAVIAR 菜花、椰子与鱼子酱
These dishes, that start from a technical idea, require a lot of trial and error, but tenacity pays off. We take advantage of the caviar's ability to freeze thanks to its fat percentage to make a core that is covered with a buttery but light cauliflower puree. The sauce is a white soy-based ponzu and broken caviar that we strain to bring both flavor and texture and the tear is a reduced coconut sauce.
这些以技术概念为起点的菜肴需要大量的尝试与调整，但坚持终会带来回报。我们利用鱼子酱的脂肪含量使其能冷冻成型，作为内核，再包裹上一层细腻轻盈的奶油花椰菜泥。酱汁则是以白酱油为基础的柚子醋汁，加入捣碎的鱼子酱，通过过滤来增添风味与质感，此外还加了一滴浓缩椰子酱。
在Enigma，餐厅提供每月更新的单一品尝菜单，共约25道菜品，这些佳肴融合了世界各地的风味，如日本、地中海和秘鲁元素，呈现出跨越文化的味觉之旅。厨师团队注重技术与美感的平衡，许多菜品的最终装饰甚至会在食客面前完成，将料理过程升华为一种表演艺术。
WHITE ASPARAGUS "BIRDIE" WITH ITS VINAIGRETTE 白芦笋“羽毛球”配芦笋油醋汁
We also call the dish "birdie" asparagus that comes from its aesthetics, very similar to the badminton ball. The asparagus is subjected to a firm and tight cooking in vacuum, cut with a cutter and separated into blades, we gel an asparagus vinaigrette with asparagus miso, horseradish and elderflowers. We eat by turning the tip of the asparagus with the fingers on itself to collect the gelatin.
这道菜被称为“羽毛球”芦笋，是因其外观酷似羽毛球而得名。芦笋经过真空烹制，保持紧实，切成片后分成薄片。我们将芦笋油醋汁进行凝胶处理，调味中加入了芦笋味噌、辣根和接骨木花。食用时，用手指旋转芦笋的顶端，将凝胶蘸取起来享用。
THE 3 TOMATOES. YUZU, SOY SAUCE AND PARMESAN CHEESE 三重番茄配柚子、酱油和帕尔马奶酪
We promise to make more dishes with Spanish cheeses, indeed, we are looking forward to it and I know that many think that there is life beyond Parmesan, but the cleanliness and taste power it gives us is uniquei.
Ugly tomato from Tudela, to which we are devoted year after year, lovingly taken care of to its best point of ripeness and flavour concentration, Greek yoghurt with basil oil and triple granita.
我们承诺会使用更多的西班牙奶酪，实际上，我们对此非常期待，也知道许多人认为除了帕尔马奶酪之外还有更多选择，但帕尔马奶酪的纯净和独特风味是无可替代的。
这道菜选用了图德拉的丑番茄，这种番茄每年我们都倾注心血，将其悉心照料至最佳成熟度，风味浓郁。搭配希腊酸奶、罗勒油以及三重冰沙，带来层次丰富的品味体验。
FUNGHI PORCINI "CAKE" 牛肝菌“蛋糕”
We introduce in a metal tartlet very thinly laminated funghi with olive oil and introduce it in a pool of liquid nitrogen until fat and fungus are united. We let the cep tartlet cool in the freezer for a few hours and finish with gelatin and salted funghi praline, lemon thyme, wild pine nut and lemon zest.
我们将薄片切割的牛肝菌放入金属小馅饼模具中，加入橄榄油，然后置于液氮中，使脂肪与蘑菇紧密结合。将冷却后的牛肝菌小馅饼放入冰箱冷藏数小时，最后加上凝胶层和咸味牛肝菌果仁糖，点缀柠檬百里香、野生松子和柠檬皮。
BONE MARROW FLOWER 骨髓花
We are passionate about Chinese cuisine, they have the largest recipe book in the world and among many of their techniques, their knife cuts, and how they are able to extract from a block of tofu a beautiful flower.
We start with something more complicated, our own bone marrow "tofu", thanks to its fat we can manipulate it cold, but not without the risk of being cut by mistake all the way to the base and automatically having to throw it away.
We serve it bathed in a crystal clear veal broth.
我们对中国美食充满热情，因其拥有世界上最丰富的食谱和多样的烹饪技巧，尤其是精湛的刀工，甚至能将一块豆腐雕刻成美丽的花形。我们尝试以更复杂的方式开始，用骨髓制作属于我们自己的“豆腐”。由于骨髓的脂肪含量较高，我们可以在冷却时小心地雕刻，但稍有不慎就可能切到底部，导致雕刻失败并必须放弃。
这道骨髓花淋上清澈的牛仔骨高汤呈现。
TENDER ALMOND NIGIRI WITH BOTTARGA 嫩杏仁寿司配鱼子酱
Some creations were made for only 2 weeks due to the extreme seasonality of the product. The tender almonds in full formation with a high water content are wrapped in an obulato with almond oil to preserve them from humidity and allow them to be picked up with the fingers, covered with a cured but very fresh slice of botarga and fresh wasabi.
这些作品因为食材的极端季节性有时只能制作两周。选用在形成过程中水分含量高的嫩杏仁，用杏仁油和日式透明薄片Obulato包裹，防止受潮并方便用手拿取。顶部覆以腌制但极为新鲜的鱼子酱薄片和新鲜山葵。
KOJI RICE CAKE WITH COCONUT AND LEMON ZEST SORBET 曲米米糕配椰子和柠檬皮雪葩
We like to be in touch with the general opinion of our customers, and in these days when koji is trendy in our country, we have noticed that in general it has a taste that is not always accepted, despite its complex taste and the contribution of sugars and amino acids. That's why, for the time being, we prefer to use it in a dessert.
The base of the cake is rice koji, gelatine and coconut cloud, balanced by a lemon peel sorbet, no flour and almost no added
sugars or fats.
我们喜欢倾听顾客的普遍看法，现如今在我们的国家中曲米（koji）正逐渐流行，但我们发现这种食材虽然口味复杂并富含糖和氨基酸，却并非总是被广泛接受。因此，目前我们更倾向于将其用于甜品中。
米糕的基底是由米曲、明胶和椰子云朵制成，搭配清爽的柠檬皮雪葩，整个甜点几乎不含面粉，且几乎无添加糖和脂肪，平衡了风味的清新与天然的甜美。
阿德里亚的料理风格被称为“前卫”，但却颇具深度。他不断挑战传统食材的使用方式，注重细节与创新的极致，力求让每位食客在品尝美味的同时，感受到意想不到的感官刺激。这种前卫与大胆的烹饪态度，也为Enigma赢得了2024年的米其林一星殊荣。
CHINESE TOMATO SOUP WITH HOLOTURIA 中式番茄海参汤
Holoturia is how we call the outer part of the sea cucumber, and we call "espardenya" the inner part, which is the stomach or digestive tract, even though we know that they are parts of the same animal.
First of all, each sea cucumber is different and so is its cooking point. We wash and brush them to remove the slime and remains of soil and we boil them for between 2 and 3 hours, removing the pieces as we see their cooking point. Then cut them up and boil them for a few more minutes in a base of slightly spicy tomato soup seasoned with Chinese spices and set aside. When ready to serve, we put the holoturias into the chilled Chinese tomato soup.
In Spain we have always eaten the inside or espardenya, and in Asia they always eat the outside (holoturia), sometimes it is difficult to agree about food...
我们称海参的外部部分为“holoturia”，而“espardenya”指的是内部部分，即胃或消化道，尽管我们知道它们来自同一动物。首先，每只海参的烹饪点不同。我们清洗并刷洗它们以去除黏液和土壤残留，然后煮2至3小时，逐一取出煮熟的部分。接着将其切片，在稍微辛辣的番茄汤中，再次加入中式香料煮几分钟，备用。待上菜时，将外部的“holoturia”放入冷却的中式番茄汤中。
在西班牙，我们通常食用内部部分或“espardenya”，而在亚洲则食用外部的“holoturia”，有时关于食材的偏好确实难以统一……
在这座充满未知和探索精神的“迷宫”中，Enigma餐厅为食客提供的并不仅仅是美味佳肴，更是一场探索自我味觉极限的旅程。阿德里亚在这个创新空间中所传达的理念，不仅仅是传统的“吃”，而是通过食物、环境和氛围的交织，将每位食客带入一个全新的感知层面。
味觉与感官的奇遇，是Enigma真正的魅力所在。
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在2024年11月6日于迪拜举行的Best Chef Award（最佳厨师大奖）中，位居榜首的是来自哥本哈根的主厨Rasmus Munk（餐厅名：Alchemist，点击此处阅读相关文章）；第二名是来自巴塞罗那的主厨Albert Adrià（餐厅名：Enigma，为本文介绍的餐厅）；第三名是来自丹麦的主厨Eric Vildgaard（餐厅名：Jordnær，点击此处阅读相关文章）。
该奖项致力于搭建厨师交流平台，聚力全球优秀厨者，激发创新思维，为厨师的学习与自我发展提供榜样力量。
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