桑蚕丝织｜丝绸之路 |非物质文化遗产

文摘 2024-09-02 13:01 北京

Mulberry silk weaving

桑蚕丝织

蚕桑丝织，作为中国古老的传统技艺，源远流长，历经千年而不衰。

它不仅是一种技艺，更是一种文化，一种精神，一种情感。

Sericulture and silk weaving, as ancient traditional techniques in China, have a long history and have endured for thousands of years without decline. It is not only a skill, but also a culture, a spirit, and an emotion.

据《通鉴纲目外记》载嫘祖:
始教民育蚕，治丝茧以供衣服
而天下无皴瘃之患，后世祀为先蚕

According to the "Outline of the General Mirror", Leizu:

Teach the people to raise silkworms and treat silk cocoons for clothing

And there is no such thing as wrinkles in the world, and in later generations, it is worshipped as the first silkworm

丝绸的起源可以追溯到5000年前的新石器时代
传说中西陵氏之女
黄帝的“元妃嫘祖”
是中国第一个种桑养蚕的古代丝绸发展人

The origin of silk can be traced back to the Neolithic Age 5000 years ago

The legendary daughter of the Xiling clan

Huangdi's' Yuanfei Leizu '

He was the first ancient silk developer in China to plant mulberry and raise silkworms

Mulberry silk weaving

中国传统桑蚕丝织技艺，流传于浙江北部和江苏南部的太湖流域（包括杭州、嘉兴、湖州和苏州等市）以及四川成都等地的传统手工艺，是人类非物质文化遗产代表作

Chinese traditional silk weaving techniques, which are popular in the Taihu Lake Lake basin in northern Zhejiang and southern Jiangsu (including Hangzhou, Jiaxing, Huzhou and Suzhou), as well as traditional handicrafts in Chengdu, Sichuan, are representative works of human intangible cultural heritage.

非遗桑蚕丝织技艺包括栽桑、养蚕、缫丝、染色和丝织等整个过程的生产技艺。这一技艺具有以下几个特点：

精湛的工艺：从选茧、煮茧、缫丝到织造，每一道工序都需要工匠们精心操作，技艺要求极高。

The weaving techniques of intangible cultural heritage mulberry silk include the entire process of mulberry planting, sericulture, silk reeling, dyeing, and silk weaving. This technique has the following characteristics:

Exquisite craftsmanship: From selecting cocoons, boiling cocoons, and spinning silk to weaving, every process requires craftsmen to operate carefully, and the technical requirements are extremely high.

丰富的品种：桑蚕丝织技艺可以生产出丰富多彩的丝绸产品，如杭罗、绫绢、丝绵、蜀锦、宋锦等，每种产品都有其独特的质地和美感。

深厚的文化底蕴：桑蚕丝织技艺不仅是一项生产技艺，还蕴含着丰富的文化内涵和民俗活动，如轧蚕花、扫蚕花地等。

Rich variety: Mulberry silk weaving techniques can produce various colourful silk products, such as Hangluo, Ling silk, Mian silk, Shu brocade, Song brocade, etc. Each product has its unique texture and beauty.

Profound cultural heritage: Mulberry silk weaving is not only a production technique, but also contains rich cultural connotations and folk activities, such as rolling silkworm flowers, sweeping silkworm flower fields, etc.

Silkworm weaving

“罗”最初指的是用来捕鸟的网。作为织物的罗结构与网类似，孔眼较大，适合制作夏季服装。在纺织罗时，会用到一种名为“绞经”的工艺，即两根或多根经线绞扭在一起，与一根一根纬线共同织成，孔眼也就是这样形成的。孔眼呈橫向排列的称为“横罗”，竖向排列的称为“直罗”。

'Luo' originally referred to a net used for catching birds. As a fabric with a structure similar to a net, the perforations are larger and suitable for making summer clothing. When weaving silk, a technique called "twisting warp" is used, which involves twisting two or more warp threads together and weaving them together with one weft thread after another. This is how the holes are formed. The holes arranged horizontally are called "horizontal rollers", and those arranged vertically are called "vertical rollers".

“绢”是采用平纹组织或平纹变化组织的织物，古书中说的“帛”“纨”“素”等织物都属于绢。绢的表面光滑细洁，光泽柔和，摩擦时有蚕丝织物特有的丝鸣。除了可以用来制作服装以外，绢还可以作为书画材料，在纸流行前，绢常被用来抄写诗赋作画等。

Silk "is a fabric that uses plain weave or plain weave variation, and fabrics such as" silk "," wan ", and" su "mentioned in ancient books all belong to silk. The surface of silk is smooth and clean, with a soft lustre, and there is a unique silk-like sound when rubbed. In addition to being used to make clothing, silk can also be used as a material for calligraphy and painting. Before the popularity of paper, silk was often used to copy poems, essays, paintings, etc.

缎”是指一类只有经线或纬线显现于表面、外观光亮平滑、富丽华美的丝织品，根据织法的不同可以分为经缎和纬缎。在唐以前，“缎“写作“段”多用作布帛计量单位。因前出士的最早的暗花缎实物来自元代墓葬。在明清时期，缎发展至鼎盛大量出现在文献记载中。

Satin "refers to a type of silk fabric with only warp or weft visible on the surface, a shiny and smooth appearance, and a rich and beautiful appearance. It can be divided into warp satin and weft satin according to different weaving methods. Before the Tang Dynasty, "satin" was often used as a unit of measurement for cloth. The earliest physical object of the hidden flower satin of the former scholars came from tombs of the Yuan Dynasty. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, satin reached its peak and appeared extensively in literature records

“绫”是一种由生丝织成的生织物，其质地轻薄，表面有明显的斜纹线路，可分为素绫和花绫，素绫是单一的斜纹或斜纹变化织物，花绫是在斜纹组织上起斜纹花的单层暗花织物。唐代是绫的全盛时期，绫在当时各地的丝织类贡品中占了很大的比重。据记载，唐代官府的织染署中设有专门织绫的部门。但后来绫的地位开始下降，纺织结构也发生了变化，宋代以后经常被用来装裱书画。

Ling "is a raw fabric woven from raw silk, with a light and thin texture and obvious diagonal lines on the surface. It can be divided into plain silk and floral silk. Plain silk is a single diagonal or diagonal variation fabric, while floral silk is a single-layer dark flower fabric with diagonal patterns on the diagonal weave. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of silk, and silk accounted for a large proportion of silk offerings in various regions at that time. According to records, there was a specialized department for weaving silk in the weaving and dyeing office of the Tang Dynasty government. But later on, the status of silk began to decline, and the textile structure also changed. After the Song Dynasty, it was often used for framing paintings and calligraphy.

缂（ke）丝是中国桑蚕丝织技艺中的一种独特工艺，被称力“中国丝织品的活化石”，并且有着“一寸缂丝一寸金”的盛名。

Ke silk is a unique technique in Chinese mulberry silk weaving, known as the "living fossil of Chinese silk fabrics" and renowned for the saying "Every inch of Ke silk is worth an inch of gold".

The Silk Road

春秋至中唐是我国丝绸生产古典体系的成熟
各种织物应运而生，印花技术臻于完备
西汉时期，张骞出使西域开通了著名的丝绸之路

The period from Spring and Autumn to Middle Tang was the mature period of China's classical silk production system

Various fabrics have emerged, and printing technology has reached perfection

During the Western Han Dynasty, Zhang Qian's mission to the Western Regions opened the famous Silk Road

唐中叶至明清
我国丝绸生产融汇了西方纺织文化形成了新的技术体系
缎、绒织物的出现使丝织品种更为丰富海上“丝绸之路”成为丝绸贸易的主要通道

From the mid-Tang Dynasty to the Ming and Qing Dynasties

China's silk production has integrated Western textile culture to form a new technological system

The emergence of satin and velvet fabrics has enriched the variety of silk fabrics, and the maritime "Silk Road" has become the main channel for the silk trade

中国蚕桑丝织技艺对世界文明的发展产生了深远的影响。通过丝绸之路，中国的丝绸文化传播到世界各地，对世界各地的文化、艺术和纺织技术产生了深刻的影响。同时，这种技艺也吸收了其他文化的元素，形成了独特的丝绸文化，丰富了世界文化的多样性。

The Chinese sericulture and silk weaving techniques have had a profound impact on the development of world civilization. Through the Silk Road, China's silk culture spread to various parts of the world, exerting a profound influence on culture, art, and textile technology around the world. At the same time, this technique also absorbed elements from other cultures, forming a unique silk culture and enriching the diversity of world cultures.

内容策划 Presented

＋

策划 Producer | Zoe

排版 Editor | Zoe

校对 Proof | Eve

审核 Reviewer | Eve

图片版权 Copyright | 网络

TD Factory

探索不同传统手工艺术

找寻国内外优秀趣味设计

欢迎非遗传承人联系我们进行推广与学习.

合作请联系后台，看到消息后我们会第一时间回复您.

—EDN—

http://mp.weixin.qq.com/s?__biz=MzA5OTgyNzgzNQ==&mid=2247489891&idx=1&sn=de25e4f8f862fa3d2353396850e2846d

TD Factory

探索研究不同传统手工艺术，搜罗各种国内外优秀趣味设计。

最新文章

内画 | 非物质文化遗产

黎族纺染织绣丨传统手工艺丨东方美学

曹雪芹风筝 | 北京非物质文化遗产

汉绣 | 非物质文化遗产

玉石花盆景|非物质文化遗产

软木画｜非物质文化遗产

面塑 | 非物质文化遗产

挑花绣｜非物质文化遗产

夏布绣 | 民间绣活 | 非物质文化遗产

中国珠算 | 传统文化

二十四节气｜非物质文化遗产

皱绣 | 非物质文化遗产

水拓画 | 非物质文化遗产

茶百戏 | 非物质文化遗产

三蓝绣 | 非物质文化遗产

侗族刺绣｜非物质文化遗产

破线绣 | 非物质文化遗产

雕花蜜饯 | 非物质文化遗产

（新）宜兴紫砂壶|非物质文化遗产

竹编画 | 非物质文化遗产

羌绣 | 非物质文化遗产

玲珑瓷｜景德镇四大传统名瓷｜非物质文化遗产

宜兴紫砂壶 | 非物质文化遗产

铜凿剪纸｜非物质文化遗产

壮锦 | 非物质文化遗产

泥金彩漆 | 非物质文化遗产

巩成｜尧都陶器非遗传承人

苗寨吊脚楼 | 非物质文化遗产

立体绣 | 非物质文化遗产

火草布｜非物质文化遗产

潮绣 | 非物质文化遗产

芜湖铁画 | 非物质文化

鲁绣 | 非物质文化遗产

叶雕 | 非物质文化遗产

中国岩彩画 | 中国非物质文化遗产

火壶｜火焰艺术｜非物质文化遗产

留青竹刻 | 非物质文化遗产

皮雕 | 传统手工艺

瓦猫 | 非物质文化遗产

制茶技艺 | 非物质文化遗产

宋锦｜非物质文化遗产

女书｜非物质文化遗产

金银彩绣 | 非物质文化遗产

许名泰｜非遗传承人

贝雕 | 非物质文化遗产

金石拓印 | 非物质文化遗产

泉州簪花|非物质文化遗产

漆珠 | 非物质文化遗产

盘金绣 | 中国传统刺绣针法

云锦 | 非物质文化遗产

分类

时事

民生

政务

教育

文化

科技

财富

体娱

健康

情感

旅行

百科

职场

楼市

企业

乐活

学术

汽车

时尚

创业

美食

幽默

美体

文摘

原创标签

时事社会财经军事教育体育科技汽车科学房产搞笑综艺明星音乐动漫游戏时尚健康旅游美食生活摄影宠物职场育儿情感小说曲艺文化历史三农文学娱乐电影视频图片新闻宗教电视剧纪录片广告创意壁纸头像心灵鸡汤星座命理教育培训艺术文化金融财经健康医疗美妆时尚餐饮美食母婴育儿社会新闻工业农业时事政治星座占卜幽默笑话独立短篇连载作品文化历史科技互联网

发布位置

广东北京山东江苏河南浙江山西福建河北上海四川陕西湖南安徽湖北内蒙古江西云南广西甘肃辽宁黑龙江贵州新疆重庆吉林天津海南青海宁夏西藏香港澳门台湾美国加拿大澳大利亚日本新加坡英国西班牙新西兰韩国泰国法国德国意大利缅甸菲律宾马来西亚越南荷兰柬埔寨俄罗斯巴西智利卢森堡芬兰瑞典比利时瑞士土耳其斐济挪威朝鲜尼日利亚阿根廷匈牙利爱尔兰印度老挝葡萄牙乌克兰印度尼西亚哈萨克斯坦塔吉克斯坦希腊南非蒙古奥地利肯尼亚加纳丹麦津巴布韦埃及坦桑尼亚捷克阿联酋安哥拉