有一种美，穿越千年，依旧让人心动不已。那就是-宋锦
There is a kind of beauty that, even after thousands of years, still touches people's hearts. That's Song Jin
它起源于春秋，兴盛于宋代，与南京云锦、四川蜀锦、广西壮锦并称为中国四大名锦。每一块宋锦，都是历史的见证，都是文化的传承。It originated in the Spring and Autumn Period and flourished in the Song Dynasty, It is known as one of the four famous brocades in China along with Nanjing Yun brocade, Sichuan Shu brocade, and Guangxi Zhuang brocade. Every piece of Song brocade is a witness to history and a cultural heritage.宋锦，是中国传统的丝制工艺品之一。因其主要产地在苏州，故又称“苏州宋锦”。宋锦色泽华丽，图案精致，质地坚柔，被赋予中国“锦绣之冠”。Song brocade is one of the traditional silk handicrafts in China. Due to its main origin in Suzhou, it is also known as "Suzhou Song Brocade". Song brocade has a magnificent colour, exquisite patterns, and a hard and soft texture and is endowed with the "crown of splendour" in China.宋锦开始于宋代末年（约公元11世纪），产品分重锦和细锦(此两类又合称大锦)、及匣锦、小锦。重锦质地厚重，产品主要用于宫殿、堂室内的陈设。细锦是宋锦中最具代表性的一类，厚薄适中，广泛用于服饰、装裱。Song brocade began in the late Song Dynasty (around the 11th century AD), with products divided into heavy brocade and fine brocade (also known as large brocade), as well as box brocade and small brocade. The heavy brocade texture is thick and heavy, and the product is mainly used for decoration in palaces and halls. Fine brocade is the most representative type of Song brocade, suitable for thickness and thickness, widely used in clothing and framing.织锦到了宋代，主要是宋高宗南渡以后，为了满足当时宫廷服饰和书画装帧的需要，得到了极大的发展，并形成了独特的风格，以至于后世谈到锦，必称宋。宋锦，可分为重锦、细锦、匣锦、小锦四类。重锦有四五十种花样，均为明清流传下来的底本，如龟背龙纹、金线如意、双桃如意、福寿全宝、梅兰竹菊、定胜四方等。重锦又称“大锦”，花作退晕，金勾轮廓，是宋锦中最名贵的品种；细锦在四方连续、六方连续、八方连续骨式内添加小花，分别称四达锦、六达锦、八达锦，用作衣物；匣锦最薄，又称“小锦”，颜色素净，用作书画、锦匣装裱。Brocade reached the Song Dynasty, mainly after Emperor Gaozong's southward migration, to meet the needs of the court's clothing and calligraphy and painting decoration at that time, it underwent great development and formed a unique style, so much so that in later generations, when it comes to brocade, it must be called Song. Song brocade can be divided into four categories: heavy brocade, fine brocade, box brocade, and small brocade. Zhongjin has forty to fifty different patterns, all of which are the foundation passed down from the Ming and Qing dynasties, such as turtle back dragon pattern, golden thread ruyi, double peach ruyi, Fu Shou Quan Bao, Mei Lan Zhu Ju, Ding Sheng Si Fang, etc. Zhongjin, also known as "Da Jin", is the most precious variety of Song brocade, with a faded flower and a golden outline. Fine brocade adds small flowers to the continuous bone patterns of four directions, six directions, and eight directions, respectively called Sida brocade, Liuda brocade, and Bada brocade, and is used for clothing; Box brocade, also known as "small brocade", is the thinnest and has a plain colour. It is used for calligraphy, painting, and framing in brocade boxes.苏州宋锦是在唐代蜀锦的基础上发展起来的。经明末清初战乱，宋锦图案一度失传，康熙年间有人从泰兴季氏处购得宋裱《淳化阁贴》十秩，揭取其上宋裱织锦二十二种，转售予苏州机房模取花样，并改进其工艺组织重新生产，遂使失传多年的古宋锦在苏州又恢复生产。Suzhou Song brocade was developed based on the Tang Dynasty Shu brocade. After the wars of the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, the patterns of Song brocade were once lost. During the Kangxi period, someone purchased ten ranks of Song framed "Chunhua Ge Tie" from the Ji family in Taixing, peeled off 22 types of Song framed woven brocade on it, and resold them to the Suzhou machine room for pattern making, and improved their craftsmanship and organisation to reproduce them. As a result, the ancient Song brocade that had been lost for many years was restored to production in Suzhou.14世纪到19世纪是宋锦最鼎盛的时期，20世纪初，因为受西文现代化工业的冲击，以及多年的战乱，传统宋锦一度衰落，宋锦的制作技艺几乎失传。由于宋锦流传下来的画样本就很少，技法也大多失传。明清以后织出的宋锦称为“仿古宋锦”或“宋式锦”，统称“宋锦”。民国初年因军阀混战，宋锦业逐步萎缩，濒临失传。到新中国成立前夕，宋锦业已奄奄一息，濒临绝迹，仅剩织机十二台，不少织锦工人都只好改行度日。建国以来，成立宋锦生产合作社（宋锦漳缎厂、织锦厂），使苏州宋锦得到了恢复和发展。The 14th century to the 19th century was the peak period of Song brocade. In the early 20th century, due to the impact of modern Western industry and years of war, traditional Song brocade declined, and the production techniques of Song brocade were almost lost. Due to the limited number of painting samples passed down from Song Jin, most of the techniques have also been lost. The Song brocade woven after the Ming and Qing dynasties is called "antique Song brocade" or "Song style brocade", collectively referred to as "Song brocade". In the early years of the Republic of China, due to warlord conflicts, Song Jinye gradually declined and was on the brink of extinction. On the eve of the founding of the People's Republic of China, Song brocade was already on the brink of extinction, with only twelve weaving machines left. Many brocade workers had to switch careers to make a living. Since the founding of the People's Republic of China, the establishment of the Songjin Production Cooperative (Songjin Zhang Satin Factory, Weaving Factory) has enabled the recovery and development of Suzhou Songjin.
宋锦有两种含义：一是指宋代由官府锦院主持生产的织锦，二是指明、清时期由苏州织造府主持生产的宋式锦。宋代官府锦院主持生产的宋锦以四川成都的蜀锦最著名。Song brocade is a silk fabric that uses coloured weft to highlight colours.Song brocade has two meanings: one refers to the brocade produced by the official brocade institute during the Song Dynasty, and the other refers to the Song-style brocade produced by the Suzhou Weaving Office during the Qing Dynasty.The Song Brocade, produced under the supervision of the official brocade academy in the Song Dynasty, is most famous for its Sichuan brocade from Chengdu, Sichuan.宋锦属于织锦类工艺品，工艺复杂品种繁多。宋锦的品种有40多种，分为大锦、匣锦和小锦三类，它们各具风格和用途。其中大锦又分为重锦和细锦。Song brocade belongs to the category of woven brocade handicrafts, with complex craftsmanship and a wide variety of varieties. There are over 40 varieties of Song brocades, divided into three categories: large brocades, box brocades, and small brocades, each with its style and purpose. Among them, big brocade is divided into heavy brocade and fine brocade.
大锦是宋锦中最有代表性的一种，图案规整，富丽堂皇，质地厚重精致，花色层次丰富，常用于装裱名贵字画。其中重锦最为贵重，特点是在纬线上大量使用捻金线或纯金线，并采用多股丝线合股的长抛梭、短抛梭和局部特抛梭的织造工艺技术，图案更为丰富，常见的图案有植物花卉、龟背纹、盘绦纹、八宝纹等，产品主要是宫庭、殿堂里的各类陈设品和巨幅挂轴等。明清之后宋锦仍然相沿不衰，故宫博物院收藏有一幅清代重锦“极乐世界”织成图轴，就是宋锦的极品。Da Jin is the most representative type of Song Jin, with regular patterns, grandeur, heavy and exquisite texture, and rich layers of colours. It is commonly used for mounting precious calligraphy and paintings. Among them, heavy brocade is the most valuable, characterised by the extensive use of twisted gold wire or pure gold wire on the weft and the weaving technology of long throwing shuttle, short throwing shuttle, and local special throwing shuttle with multiple strands of silk thread combined. The patterns are more diverse, and common patterns include plant flowers, turtleback patterns, coiling patterns, eight treasure patterns, etc. The products mainly include various display items and giant hanging scrolls in palaces and halls. After the Ming and Qing dynasties, Song brocade continued to thrive. The Palace Museum has a collection of Qing Dynasty heavy brocades called "Pure Land" woven into a scroll, which is a masterpiece of Song brocade.■
Song brocade
■ Photo
■ Structure
匣锦用真丝与少量纱线混合织成，图案连续对称，多用于书画的立轴、屏条的装裱。大锦质地厚重图案精美，多使用金银线编织。作品美观大气，适合于制作各类书画装饰品。小锦质地柔软而坚固，一般使用天然蚕丝制作而成。用小锦来制作服饰高贵典雅尽显身份，在近代非常盛行。而匣锦则更多的用于制作一些仿古的作品，如仿古的屏风、名人的书画、高档场合以匣锦的点缀来突出古典的氛围等等。Box brocade is woven with a mixture of real silk and a small amount of yarn, with continuous and symmetrical patterns. It is commonly used for mounting vertical axes and screen strips in calligraphy and painting. The large brocade texture is thick, and the patterns are exquisite, often woven with gold and silver threads. The work is beautiful and atmospheric, suitable for making various calligraphy and painting decorations. Xiaojin has a soft and sturdy texture, usually made from natural silk. Using small brocade to make clothing that is noble, elegant, and showcases one's identity is very popular in modern times. Box brocade is more commonly used to create antique works, such as antique screens, paintings and calligraphy of celebrities, and high-end occasions that highlight the classical atmosphere with the embellishment of box brocade.
姑苏宋锦与南京云锦、成都蜀锦并列为中国三大名锦。指具有宋代织锦风格、用彩纬显色的纬锦。它具有独特的风格，在纹样组织上，精密细致，质地坚柔，平服挺括；在图案花纹上，对称严谨而有变化，丰富而又流畅生动；在色彩运用上，艳而不火，繁而不乱，富有明丽古雅的韵味。宋锦的品种分大锦、合锦、小锦三种。Gusu Song brocade is listed as one of the three famous brocades in China, along with Nanjing Yun brocade and Chengdu Shu brocade. Refers to the weaving style of Song Dynasty brocade and the use of coloured weft to highlight colours. It has a unique style, with precise and delicate pattern organisation, firm and soft texture, and a flat and crisp appearance. In terms of patterns and designs, they are symmetrical, rigorous, varied, rich, smooth, and vivid. In terms of colour application, it is bright but not fiery, complex but not chaotic, and full of bright and elegant charm. The varieties of Song brocade are divided into three types: Da brocade, He brocade, and Xiao brocade.
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