鲁绣 | 非物质文化遗产

文摘   2024-10-03 10:33   山东  

Lu embroidery

鲁绣 



鲁绣是一种主要流行于中国山东省的传统刺绣工艺,属中国“八大名绣”之一,于2021年5月24日经国务院批准列入第五批国家级非物质文化遗产名录。





Lu embroidery

        鲁绣





精美/古雅/独特

Lu embroidery



发展历史



鲁绣是历史文献中记载最早的一个绣种,其历史悠久。它兴起于春秋时期的齐鲁大地,当时被称为“齐纨”或“鲁缟”;至秦而盛,在汉代已相当普及,《史记·货殖列传》中有“冠带衣履天下”之称。还出现了专门为绣业设置的“服官”,可见当时绣业的昌盛和重要性。

Lu embroidery is the earliest recorded embroidery variety in historical documents, with a long history. It originated in the land of Qilu during the Spring and Autumn Period and was called "Qi Wan" or "Lu Ji" at that time. It flourished during the Qin Dynasty and was already quite popular during the Han Dynasty. In the "Records of the Grand Historian: Biographies of the Merchant Colonization", it is known as "wearing a hat, clothing, and shoes all over the world". There were also "service officials" specifically designed for the embroidery industry, indicating the prosperity and importance of the embroidery industry at that time.


从古代帝王公卿的章服走入寻常百姓家,鲁绣的传统艺术风格得以展现。如邹县1350年李裕庵墓葬中的绣裙、袖边、鞋面采用的山东传统“衣线绣”,图案苍劲粗犷、质地坚实牢固;存于故宫博物院中的明代作品《文昌出行图》《芙蓉双鸭图》,用色鲜明、针法豪放、朴实健美。

From the traditional attire of ancient emperors and officials to the homes of ordinary people, the traditional artistic style of Lu embroidery is showcased. The embroidered skirts, sleeve edges, and shoe uppers in Li Yu'an's tomb in Zou County in 1350 use the traditional Shandong "clothing thread embroidery" with bold and rough patterns and solid and firm texture. The Ming Dynasty works "Wenchang Travel Picture" and "Hibiscus Twin Ducks Picture" stored in the Palace Museum are characterised by vivid colours, bold needlework, and simple and beautiful appearance.


在近现代,19世纪末,欧洲抽纱工艺传入中国,对鲁绣的一些品种产生了重要影响。例如,英国传教士詹姆士·马茂兰夫妇在烟台的活动,推动了烟台抽纱等鲁绣产品的发展。

In modern times, at the end of the 19th century, European embroidery techniques were introduced to China, which had a significant impact on some varieties of Lu embroidery. For example, the activities of British missionaries James and his wife in Yantai promoted the development of Shandong embroidery products such as Yantai embroidery.





Lu embroidery

鲁绣






制作流程




1. 准备材料:传统鲁绣工艺以柞蚕线(绣线)和绢、棉、麻等布料为主要原料。

1. Preparation materials: Traditional Lu embroidery techniques use tussah silk (embroidery thread) and fabrics such as silk, cotton, and linen as the main raw materials.


2. 设计图案:根据需要绣制的物品和主题,设计合适的图案。

2. Design patterns: Design appropriate patterns based on the items and themes that need to be embroidered.


3. 针法运用:采用多种针法,如齐针、缠针、打籽、滚针、擞和针、镇绣、接针等。鲁绣所用的绣线大多是较粗的加捻双股丝线,俗称“衣线”或“衣线绣”,不劈破的粗线直接入针。

3. Needle application: Various needle techniques are used, such as aligning needles, wrapping needles, seeding, rolling needles, smoothing needles, embroidery, and stitching. The embroidery thread used in Lu embroidery is mostly thick, twisted, stranded silk thread, commonly known as "clothing thread" or "clothing thread embroidery". The thick thread, without splitting, is directly inserted into the needle.


4. 绣制过程:按照设计好的图案和针法,在底衬布料上进行绣制。绣制时需注意线的松紧度和针脚的均匀度,以保证绣品的质量。

4. Embroidery process: Embroidery is performed on the backing fabric according to the designed pattern and stitching technique. When embroidering, attention should be paid to the tightness of the threads and the uniformity of the stitches to ensure the quality of the embroidery.


5. 细节处理:完成主体绣制后,对绣品进行细节处理,如修剪线头、整理绣面等。

5. Detail processing: After completing the main embroidery, perform detail processing on the embroidery, such as trimming the thread ends, organising the embroidery surface, etc.


6. 后期整理:根据需要,对绣品进行清洗、熨烫等处理,使其更加整洁美观。

6. Post-production organisation: Clean and iron the embroidery as needed to make it more neat and beautiful.









鉴赏赏析







鲁绣具有独特的艺术风格和审美价值。

Lu embroidery has a unique artistic style and aesthetic value.


1. 针法灵巧而不失稳重:运用多种针法,使图案富有层次感和立体感。

1. Clever yet steady needlework: Using multiple needlework techniques to create a layered and three-dimensional pattern.


2. 色彩质朴浓丽:色彩搭配协调,既不过于淡雅也不显得艳俗。

2. Simple and rich colours: The colour matching is coordinated, neither too elegant nor too vulgar.





3. 图案题材丰富:常选取民间喜闻乐见的人物、鸳鸯、蝴蝶、芙蓉花等,具有浓厚的生活气息。

3. Rich themes of patterns: often selected from popular folk figures, mandarin ducks, butterflies, hibiscus flowers, etc., with a strong sense of life.




4. 体现地域文化:带有明显的“鲁”地文化色彩,造型豪放,构图洒脱。

4. Reflecting regional culture: with obvious "Lu" cultural colours, bold and unrestrained shapes, and free and easy compositions.


5. 能表达中国书画的笔墨效果:擅长表现笔墨的韵味和意境,具有独特的艺术魅力。

5. Able to express the brush and ink effects of Chinese calligraphy and painting: skilled in expressing the charm and artistic conception of brush and ink, possessing unique artistic charm.





例如,《八仙过海》绣品人物表情逼真传神,针脚线条细腻油滑,色彩搭配巧妙协调;《大富贵亦寿考》则融合了古典风韵与现代气息,令人浮想联翩。

For example, the embroidered characters in "The Eight Immortals Crossing the Sea" have lifelike and vivid expressions, delicate and smooth stitch lines, and cleverly coordinated colour combinations. The poem 'The Longevity of Wealth and Prosperity' combines classical charm with modern elements, evoking vivid imagination.







总结






鲁绣作为中华民族悠久刺绣文化的重要组成部分,博采“苏、粤、蜀、湘”四大名绣之长,又独具一格。它集抽、勒、锁、雕等精华工艺于一身,不仅具有很高的历史文化价值,也是中国传统工艺美术的瑰宝。

As an important part of the long-standing embroidery culture of the Chinese nation, Lu embroidery draws on the strengths of the four famous embroidery styles of "Su, Yue, Shu, and Xiang" and has a unique style. It combines the essence of arts and crafts such as drawing, stranding, locking and carving. It not only has high historical and cultural value but also is a treasure of traditional Chinese arts and crafts.


鲁绣产品繁多,包括烟台抽纱、即墨花边、青州府花边、雕平绣、蓬莱梭子花边、棒槌花边、手拿花边、网扣、勾针等多种形式,各具特色,在国际市场上享有盛誉。

Lu embroidery has a wide variety of products, including Yantai drawstring, Jimo lace, Qingzhou Prefecture lace, carved flat embroidery, Penglai shuttle lace, club lace, hand-held lace, mesh buckle, hook needle and other forms, each with its characteristics, and enjoys a high reputation in the international market.



然而,如今鲁绣面临着传承和发展的挑战,需要更多人关注和投入,以保护和传承这一珍贵的非物质文化遗产,使其在现代社会中继续绽放光彩,让后人能够领略到鲁绣的独特...

However, nowadays, Lu embroidery is facing challenges in inheritance and development, requiring more attention and investment from people to protect and inherit this precious intangible cultural heritage so that it can continue to shine in modern society and enable future generations to appreciate the unique characteristics of Lu embroidery.






不只是非遗,更是一种传承

Not only intangible cultural heritage but also a form of inheritance






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