漳绣|非物质文化遗产

文摘   2024-08-07 00:15   马来西亚  















漳绣

Zhangzhou embroidery





漳绣技艺,福建省漳州市传统技艺,福建省省级非物质文化遗产之一。

Zhangzhou embroidery technique, the traditional technique of Zhangzhou City, Fujian Province, is one of the provincial intangible cultural heritage of Fujian Province.

漳绣即漳州刺绣,起源于明代,与漳纱、漳绒同为漳州织造史上的三大工艺,其在中国织造史上的地位仅次于苏绣、蜀绣、湘绣、粤绣四大名绣。

Zhangzhou embroidery, also known as Zhangzhou embroidery, originated in the Ming Dynasty, Zhangzhou yarn and Zhangzhou velvet are the three major crafts in the history of Zhangzhou weaving, and its status in the history of Chinese weaving is second only to Suzhou embroidery, Shu embroidery, Hunan embroidery and Guangdong embroidery.

随着时代变迁,漳纱、漳绒都已经失传,仅漳绣技艺还存在。漳绣底料用真丝织品,绣线用真丝线和银金线,针法有70余种,其中空心打籽绣和凸金绣是漳绣特技。漳绣在明、清时代已驰名海内外,与“漳绒”一直是朝廷的贡品,又是出口商品。

With the changes in The Times, Zhangzhou yarn and Zhangzhou velvet have been lost, and only Zhangzhou embroidery skills still exist. Zhangzhou embroidery bottom material with real silk fabrics, embroidery thread with real silk and silver gold thread, there are more than 70 kinds of stitches, of which hollow seed embroidery and gold embroidery are Zhangzhou embroidery special effects. Zhangzhou embroidery has been famous at home and abroad in the Ming and Qing dynasties, and "Zhangzhou velvet" has always been a tribute to the court, but also an export commodity.






漳绣的历史渊源

The historical origin of Zhangzhou embroidery



漳绣,古代称为“黹”或“针黹”,是一种通过细小绣针的上下穿刺运动,在绸缎、布帛等织物上使用丝、绒、棉等各种彩色线来构成图像、花纹或文字的工艺

Zhangzhou embroidery called "seam" or "needlework" in ancient times, is a technique in which silk, velvet, cotton and other colourful threads are used to make images, patterns or writing on silk, silk, cloth and other fabrics through small needling movements up and down

漳绣因其精湛的技艺而被誉为“漳州妇女善刺绣”。这门技艺的针法有缠针、扣针、贴绣、齐针、抢针、钉金、双面针、过桥针、迭针、叠针、平绣、套绣、贴绣、空心打籽绣、凸绣等 

Zhangzhou embroidery is known as "Zhangzhou women's good embroidery" because of its exquisite skills. The stitching methods of this technique include wrapping stitch, fastening stitch, stocking stitch, levelling stitch, grabbing stitch, nailing gold, double-sided stitch, bridge stitch, overlapping stitch, overlapping stitch, flat stitch, set stitch, stocking stitch, hollow seed stitch, convex stitch, etc


这些针法各有用途,有些甚至可以混用目的是为了达到作品色彩层次分明、镶色合理接色顺和的艺术效果。而其中,光、亮、齐密、净、洁、凸的作品则被视为上品。

These stitches have their uses, and some can even be mixed to achieve the artistic effect of clear colour layers and reasonable matching of colours. Among them, light, bright, dense, clean, clean, and convex works are regarded as top quality.

漳绣,起源于明代。清代以后,随着交通日益发展和古月港海上贸易的开放,漳绣发展迅速,形成较大的生产规模。漳绣在明、清两代一直是朝廷的贡品,又是重要的出口商品。

Zhangzhou embroidery originated in the Ming Dynasty. After the Qing Dynasty, with the increasing development of traffic and the opening of maritime trade in Guyue Port, Zhangzhou embroidery developed rapidly and formed a larger scale of production. Zhangzhou embroidery in the Ming and Qing dynasties has been the imperial tribute, but also an important export commodity.



漳绣技艺

Zhangzhou embroidery technique


漳绣的技艺独特,底料选用真丝织品,绣线使用真丝和银金线。而漳绣的针法更是多种多样,每一种都有其独特的用途和魅力。这门技艺曾在明清时代闻名遐迩

Zhangzhou embroidery technique is unique. The base material is made of real silk, and the embroidery thread is made of pure silk and silver and gold thread. Zhangzhou embroidery stitch is more diverse, each has its unique use and charm. This skill was famous in the Ming and Qing Dynasties











〔2024〕

Zhangzhou embroidery


漳绣的工艺特征

The technological characteristics of Zhangzhou embroidery


漳绣采用民间剪纸为绣稿,绣稿大都出自于名画师之手。Zhangzhou embroidery adopts folk paper-cut as the embroidery manuscript, which is mostly from the hands of famous painters.




漳绣题材有龙凤、人物、动物、花卉、博古等,而龙凤是其主要题材。漳绣的艺术特色在于构图精巧新颖,形象优美逼真、神态生动细腻,色彩斑斓瑰丽。漳绣用线,“金葱”是其特色,且针法多变,以“空心打只绣”和“凸金绣”见长。特别是垫凸的金线绣、打只绣与双面绣,绣工精细,层次分明,立体感强,浮雕效果明显。用垫凸金线绣出来的龙、凤栩栩如生,大有“腾云驾雾而起”之势。

The themes of Zhangzhou embroidery are dragons and phoenixes, figures, animals, flowers, ancient cultures and so on, and dragons and phoenixes are its main themes. Zhangzhou embroidery is characterized by exquisite composition, vivid and vivid images, vivid and delicate expressions, and gorgeous colours. Zhangzhou embroidery thread, "golden onion" is its characteristic, and the stitch is varied, with "hollow play only embroidery" and "convex gold embroidery". In particular, the gold thread embroidery, only embroidery and double-sided embroidery, embroider fine, clear layers, strong three-dimensional sense, relief effect is obvious. The dragons and phoenixes embroidered with cushion gold thread are lifelike and tend to "rise from clouds and mist".



刺绣艺术,是一种妇女们善于运用细小绿针创造出的绚丽图案和花纹的技艺。

Embroidery is a technique in which women are good at using small green needles to create gorgeous patterns and patterns.

漳绣作为其中一种,以其精湛的针法和细腻的绣线而闻名。这门技艺有着70多种针法,每一种都有其独特的韵味。缠针到凸绣,每一种技法都需要艺人的细致耐心和精技艺。漳绣作品以其色彩层次分明、镶色合理、接色顺和的艺术效果而受到赞誉。无论是作为艺术形式还是传统文化的一部分,漳绣都值得我们的珍视和传承。

Zhangzhou embroidery, as one of them, is famous for its exquisite needlework and delicate embroidery thread. There are more than 70 stitches in this art, each with its unique charm. From needle-wrapping to embossed embroidery, each technique requires the artist's meticulous patience and fine skills. Zhangzhou embroidery works are praised for their artistic effects of distinct colour layers, reasonable inlaid colours and smooth connection of colours. Whether as an art form or a part of traditional culture, Zhangzhou embroidery is worth our treasure and inheritance.

漳绣的传承保护

Inheritance and protection of Zhangzhou embroidery


漳州刺绣工艺以家学方式流传,母传女、嫂传姑,宗亲相传,女孩从小学绣线条连续图案的手帕、鞋面。随着时代的变迁、市场的萎缩、年轻一代的逃离,漳绣正面临着传承危机。

Zhangzhou embroidery craft spread in the way of family learning, mother to daughter, sister-in-law to sister-in-law, clan, girls from the primary school embroidered line continuous pattern handkerchief, shoe upper. With the changes in The Times, the shrinking of the market and the escape of the younger generation, Zhangxiu is facing a crisis of inheritance.









Walking between the needle and thread

—Zhangzhou embroidery






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  排版 Editor|Loren 

校对 Proof|Eve   

审核Reviewer | Eve 

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