糊染 | 传统染色工艺

文摘   2024-09-07 00:11   北京  

糊染

Paste dyeing

Traditional dyeing process


Paste dyeing


—— 糊染  ——



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糊染又称“型染”,古称“灰缬”,是一种传统且独特的染色手工技艺,是传统的四缬技艺之一。

Paste dyeing, also known as "type dyeing" or "grey dyeing" in ancient times, is a traditional and unique dyeing handicraft and is one of the conventional four dyeing techniques.



PART.01

源远流长的发展历史



• 起源:糊染起源于唐朝,是传统蓝染工艺中的一支。

• Origin: Paste dyeing originated in the Tang Dynasty and is a traditional blue dyeing technique.


• 发展:在宋代以后,古丝路上的染缬技艺因各种原因逐渐衰落,以至失传。上世纪初,敦煌藏经洞中大量珍贵文物流失,其中多数染缬实物散逸海外。

Development: After the Song Dynasty, the dyeing techniques on the ancient Silk Road gradually declined and even disappeared for various reasons. At the beginning of the last century, a large number of precious cultural relics were lost from the Dunhuang scripture cave, with most of the dyed and preserved items disappearing overseas.


• 现状:近年来,随着人们对传统文化的重视和保护意识的提高,糊染技艺得到了一定的传承和发展。一些地方和机构开始举办糊染技艺的培训和展览活动,以促进其传承和发展。

Current situation: In recent years, with the increasing emphasis on traditional culture and the improvement of protection awareness, the dyeing technique has been inherited and developed to a certain extent. Some places and institutions have started to hold training and exhibition activities on paste dyeing techniques to promote their inheritance and development.








PART.02

独具匠心的制作过程 






它采用型纸刻版,使用豆粉、石灰混合成的糊状物作为防染剂,通过刻好的型纸将糊料刮到布料上,形成防染图形。染色后,漂洗并刮掉防染剂,从而创作出具有独特花纹的纺织品。

It uses pattern paper engraving and a paste made of soybean flour and lime as an anti-dye agent. The paste is scraped onto the fabric through the engraved pattern paper to form an anti-dye pattern. After dyeing, rinse and scrape off the anti-dye agent to create textiles with unique patterns.


•  准备材料:需要准备布料、镂空的花版、防染糊剂、染料等材料。

Preparation materials: Materials such as fabric, hollowed-out patterns, anti-dye paste, dyes, etc. need to be prepared.


• 制作防染糊剂:将黄豆粉和石灰按比例调配成浆糊。

• Making anti-dye paste: Mix soybean powder and lime in proportion to form a paste.


• 刮置防染糊剂:将镂空的花版放在布料上,用刮刀将防染糊剂刮置在花版上,使糊剂透过花版的镂空部分印在布料上。

Scrape anti-dye paste: Place the hollowed-out pattern on the fabric and use a scraper to scrape the anti-dye paste onto the pattern, allowing the paste to be printed on the fabric through the hollowed-out part of the pattern.


• 晾干:将刮置好防染糊剂的布料晾干。

• Drying: Dry the fabric that has been scraped with anti-dye paste.


• 浸染:将晾干的布料放入染料中浸染,使布料上未被防染糊剂覆盖的部分染上颜色。

• Dip dyeing: Dip the dried fabric into dye to dye the parts of the fabric that are not covered by anti-dye paste.


• 清洗:将浸染好的布料取出,用清水清洗掉布料上的防染糊剂,使布料上的花纹显现出来。

• Cleaning: Take out the dyed fabric and clean the anti-dye paste on the fabric with clean water to reveal the patterns on the fabric.


• 晾干:将清洗好的布料晾干,完成糊染作品。

• Drying: Dry the cleaned fabric to complete the paste dyeing work.



刮置防染糊剂


浸染


清洗晾干

···





PART.03

  精妙绝伦的鉴赏赏析  




• 图案:糊染的图案通常具有浓郁的民族风格和地方特色,如花鸟、山水、人物等。这些图案不仅具有装饰性,还反映了人们的生活、信仰和审美观念。

• Pattern: Pasted patterns usually have strong ethnic styles and local characteristics, such as flowers, birds, landscapes, characters, etc. These patterns are not only decorative, but also reflect people's lives, beliefs, and aesthetic concepts.


• 色彩:糊染的色彩通常以蓝色为主,这是因为蓝色是一种天然的染料,容易获取且不易褪色。此外,糊染还可以使用其他颜色的染料,如红色、黄色、绿色等,以增加作品的色彩层次感。

• Color: The colour of paste dyeing is usually dominated by blue because blue is a natural dye that is easy to obtain and not easily faded. In addition, other colours of dyes such as red, yellow, green, etc. can also be used for paste dyeing to increase the colour hierarchy of the work.


• 质感:糊染的质感通常比较柔软,这是因为糊染使用的是天然的染料和布料,没有经过化学处理。此外,糊染的质感还可以通过刮置防染糊剂的厚度和浸染的时间来控制,以达到不同的效果。

• Texture: The texture of paste dyeing is usually soft because it uses natural dyes and fabrics without chemical treatment. In addition, the texture of the paste can be controlled by the thickness of the anti-dye paste and the soaking time to achieve different effects.









PART.04

  意义深远的总结  






• 糊染是一种具有悠久历史和丰富文化内涵的传统手工技艺,它不仅具有装饰性,还反映了人们的生活、信仰和审美观念。


Paste dyeing is a traditional handicraft with a long history and rich cultural connotations. It not only has decorative properties, but also reflects people's lives, beliefs, and aesthetic concepts.



• 糊染的制作过程需要经过多道工序,每一道工序都需要精心操作,才能制作出高质量的糊染作品。

The production process of paste dyeing requires multiple steps, each of which requires careful operation to produce high-quality paste dyeing works.


• 糊染的赏析鉴赏需要从图案、色彩、质感等多个方面进行考虑,才能真正领略到糊染的艺术魅力。

Appreciation and appreciation of dyeing require consideration of multiple aspects such as patterns, colours, and textures to truly appreciate the artistic charm of dyeing.








糊染以其独特的工艺展现出非凡的魅力。从精心调制的染浆,到借助刻纸版或模板在布料上细致刮印,再经过染色与洗去防染糊等步骤,每一个环节都凝聚着工匠的心血与智慧。它所染出的图案,或清新素雅,或妙趣横生,既有着传统的韵味,又能在现代社会中绽放独特的光彩。

Paste dyeing showcases extraordinary charm through its unique craftsmanship. From carefully crafted dyeing paste to meticulously scratching and printing on fabrics with engraved paper or templates, and then going through steps such as dyeing and washing away anti-dye paste, every step embodies the craftsman's hard work and wisdom. The patterns it dyes are either fresh and elegant, or full of wit and humour, possessing both traditional charm and unique brilliance in modern society.


在历史的长河中,糊染见证了岁月的变迁,传承着民族的审美与价值观。它不仅是一种手工技艺,更是一种文化符号,连接着过去与未来。在当今时代,糊染工艺的传承与发展,为我们保留了一份珍贵的文化遗产,让我们能够触摸到历史的温度,感受到传统之美。

In the long river of history, dyeing has witnessed the changes of time and inherited the aesthetics and values of the nation. It is not only a handicraft but also a cultural symbol that connects the past and the future. In today's era, the inheritance and development of paste dyeing technology have preserved a precious cultural heritage for us, allowing us to touch the temperature of history and feel the beauty of tradition.


我们应当珍视糊染这一非遗技艺,通过不断的创新与推广,让更多的人了解和喜爱它,使其在新时代焕发出更加绚烂的光芒,为丰富人类的文化宝库贡献力量。

We should cherish the intangible cultural heritage technique of dyeing and paste, and through continuous innovation and promotion, let more people understand and love it so that it can shine brighter in the new era and contribute to enriching the cultural treasure trove of humanity.







//令人惊艳的传统染色工艺//





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策划Producer| Nora

排版 Editor | Nora

校对 Proof| Eve

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