敦煌刺绣 | 中国传统绣法

 发展历史 

敦煌刺绣是一门古老而独特的传统技艺，它起源于甘肃敦煌地区，并随着丝绸之路的繁荣而传播。敦煌刺绣以其精美的工艺和独特的文化内涵而闻名于世。

Dunhuang embroidery is an ancient and unique traditional skill that originated in the Dunhuang region of Gansu and spread with the prosperity of the Silk Road. Dunhuang embroidery is renowned for its exquisite craftsmanship and unique cultural significance.

敦煌刺绣的历史可以追溯到北朝时期，历经隋、唐、宋等朝代，直至元明时期，在唐代达到鼎盛。在唐代，敦煌刺绣的针法和题材都有了显著的发展。针法上，敦煌刺绣弱化了繁杂的锁针绣，转而运用劈针绣、平针绣和加金绣等技法，这些技法使得绣品更加耐磨，同时保持了丝线的光泽和质感。

The history of Dunhuang embroidery can be traced back to the Northern Dynasties period, going through dynasties such as Sui, Tang, Song, etc., until the Yuan and Ming dynasties, reaching their peak in the Tang Dynasty. In the Tang Dynasty, there was a significant development in the needlework and themes of Dunhuang embroidery. In terms of needlework, Dunhuang embroidery weakened the complex lock stitch embroidery. Instead, it used techniques such as split stitch embroidery, flat stitch embroidery, and gold embroidery, which made the embroidery more durable while maintaining the lustre and texture of the silk thread.

这些刺绣作品多为佛像、佛经、幡和幢伞等宗教用品，以及供养人的衣物和饰品。图案丰富多彩，包括佛、菩萨、供养人、花、鸟和动物等，这些图案不仅具有装饰性，还蕴含着深厚的宗教和文化意义。

These embroidery works are mostly religious items such as Buddha statues, Buddhist scriptures, banners, umbrellas, and clothing and accessories for offerings. The patterns are rich and colourful, including Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, offerings, flowers, birds, and animals. These patterns not only have decorative value but also contain profound religious and cultural significance.

在题材上，敦煌刺绣增加了佛像、佛经、壁画等佛教题材，这些题材的绣品通常具有沉稳、厚重、庄严的风格，符合佛教文化的审美需求。从藏经洞出土的唐代刺绣数量最多，技法多样，色彩丰富，是敦煌刺绣的精品。

In terms of themes, Dunhuang embroidery has added Buddhist themes such as Buddha statues, Buddhist scriptures, and murals. These embroidered works usually have a calm, heavy, and solemn style, which meets the aesthetic needs of Buddhist culture. The Tang Dynasty embroidery unearthed from the Cave of Buddhist Scriptures has the largest quantity, diverse techniques, and rich colours, making it a masterpiece of Dunhuang embroidery.

特点与工艺 

敦煌刺绣的特点在于其独特的针法和图案设计。针法上，敦煌刺绣以劈针绣为主，这种针法单手即可完成，便于游牧民族在移动中灵活刺绣，同时绣品耐磨，兼具实用性和观赏性。

The characteristic of Dunhuang embroidery lies in its unique needlework and pattern design. In terms of needlework, Dunhuang embroidery mainly uses split stitch embroidery, which can be completed with one hand, making it easy for nomadic people to embroider flexibly while moving. At the same time, the embroidery is wear-resistant, practical, and ornamental.

图案设计上，敦煌刺绣融合了佛教文化和当地的游牧文化、农耕文化、丝路文化，体现了文化交融与碰撞。绣品中的图案和色彩往往反映了当时人们的生产生活、地理条件、民俗风情和内心愿望，对研究古时的敦煌、丰富敦煌文化结构层次，以及增强民族文化自豪感有重要意义。

In terms of pattern design, Dunhuang embroidery integrates Buddhist culture with local nomadic culture, agricultural culture, and Silk Road culture, reflecting cultural integration and collision. The patterns and colors in embroidery often reflect the production and life, geographical conditions, folk customs, and inner desires of people at that time. It is of great significance for studying ancient Dunhuang, enriching the cultural structure of Dunhuang, and enhancing national cultural pride.

绣法 

针法介绍：

敦煌刺绣的针法多样，包括环状扣眼绣、雏菊绣、法式结粒绣、卷线绣和植针绣等。这些针法通过不同的组合和运用，能够绣出各种精美的图案和纹饰。

Introduction to Acupuncture Techniques:

Dunhuang embroidery has a variety of needlework techniques, including circular buttonhole embroidery, daisy embroidery, French knot embroidery, thread rolling embroidery, and needle planting embroidery. These needlework techniques, through different combinations and applications, can embroider various exquisite patterns and decorations.

图案设计：

敦煌刺绣的图案设计灵感多取自于敦煌壁画和传统纹样，如莲花、忍冬、飞天等，这些图案不仅具有很高的艺术价值，也蕴含着深厚的文化意义。

Pattern design:

The design inspiration for Dunhuang embroidery patterns often comes from Dunhuang murals and traditional patterns such as lotus, honeysuckle, and flying sky. These patterns not only have high artistic value but also contain profound cultural significance.

色彩运用：

敦煌刺绣的色彩鲜艳强烈，对比鲜明，常用红、黄、蓝、绿等纯色线，以及金线、银线等特殊材质，以增强图案的立体感和视觉效果。

Colour application:

The colours of Dunhuang embroidery are bright and strong, with sharp contrasts. Solid colour threads such as red, yellow, blue, and green are commonly used, as well as special materials such as gold and silver threads, to enhance the patterns' three-dimensional sense and visual effect.

工艺流程：

敦煌刺绣的工艺流程包括摹样、沓样、配色、上绷、劈丝、捻线等步骤，这些步骤确保了刺绣作品的精确性和艺术性。

technological process:

The process of Dunhuang embroidery includes steps such as copying, pasting, colour matching, stretching, splitting, and twisting, which ensure the accuracy and artistic quality of the embroidery works.

非物质文化遗产：

敦煌刺绣作为一种传统美术，已被列入酒泉市市级非物质文化遗产名录，这体现了其在文化传承上的重要地位。

Intangible Cultural Heritage:

Dunhuang embroidery, as a traditional art form, has been included in the municipal intangible cultural heritage list of Jiuquan City, reflecting its important position in cultural inheritance.

传承与发展 

尽管敦煌刺绣在历史上曾有过辉煌的时期，但随着时间的推移，这门技艺逐渐失传，直到近年来才重新受到人们的重视。甘肃的“绣郎”刘云帆等人正在努力通过系统性挖掘整理古代敦煌刺绣，以博物馆展览或出版物的形式，向世人展示这一传统技艺的魅力。

Although Dunhuang embroidery had a glorious period in history, over time, this skill gradually disappeared and only regained people's attention in recent years. Liu Yunfan, the "Embroidery Master" of Gansu, and others are working hard to systematically excavate and organize ancient Dunhuang embroidery, showcasing the charm of this traditional technique to the world through museum exhibitions or publications.

同时，敦煌刺绣也在不断地创新和发展，例如将敦煌刺绣的图案和针法融合到现代服饰中，展现出独特的东方美学和时尚感。此外，还有一些品牌和设计师在探索将敦煌刺绣应用到成衣、家装等领域，让古老的技艺在现代生活中得到新的展现和传承。

At the same time, Dunhuang embroidery is constantly innovating and developing, such as integrating Dunhuang embroidery patterns and stitches into modern clothing, showcasing a unique Eastern aesthetic and fashion sense. In addition, some brands and designers are exploring the application of Dunhuang embroidery in the fields of ready-to-wear and home decoration, allowing ancient techniques to be showcased and inherited in modern life.

总结 

敦煌刺绣不仅是一种传统的手工艺，也是古代文化和艺术的重要载体。它不仅记录了历史的痕迹，也承载了人们对美好生活的追求和对文化传承的承诺。通过保护和传承这门技艺，我们可以更好地理解和欣赏古代文化的精髓，同时也能为现代生活增添一份独特的艺术魅力。

Dunhuang embroidery is not only a traditional handicraft, but also an important carrier of ancient culture and art. It not only records the traces of history but also carries people's pursuit of a better life and commitment to cultural inheritance. By protecting and inheriting this skill, we can better understand and appreciate the essence of ancient culture, while also adding a unique artistic charm to modern life.

敦煌刺绣不仅是一种艺术形式，也是文化交流和传播的载体。在历史上，敦煌刺绣随着丝绸之路的繁荣而传播到中亚和欧洲，对当地的刺绣艺术产生了深远的影响。

Dunhuang embroidery is not only an art form, but also a carrier of cultural exchange and dissemination. In history, Dunhuang embroidery spread to Central Asia and Europe with the prosperity of the Silk Road, exerting a profound influence on the local embroidery art.

敦煌刺绣也是中国古代女性智慧和勤劳的象征，反映了中国古代女性在社会和文化生活中的重要地位。

Dunhuang embroidery is also a symbol of the wisdom and diligence of ancient Chinese women, reflecting their important position in social and cultural life.

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