PERFUME
It was a subtle balance between the past and a new life.
轻盈的脚步、对手工艺的热爱以及着迷于微妙、转瞬即逝的细节魅力——这是京都给人的独特印象，也与日本的侘寂 (wabi-sabi) 息息相关。而这种美学恰恰亦是香水品牌Le Labo全球品牌总裁兼创意总监Deborah Royer的设计原则，作为新旗舰店的所在地，希望Le Labo能够呼应京都所珍视的一切。
Treading lightly, a love for handmade processes and the magic found in the subtle,evanescent details – all of these embody the enchanting allure of Kyoto, intricately tied to the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi. Wabi-sabi happens to be the guiding principle for Deborah Royer, Global Brand President and Creative Director of the brand Le Labo. As the location for their new flagship store, Kyoto resonates deeply with everything Le Labo cherishes.
“Le Labo”源自法文，意为实验室。由Fabrice Penot和Eddie Roschi于2006年创立。Le Labo对缓慢、耐心地探索产生浓厚的兴趣，他们以手工慢香水形式在市场上崭露头角。它的第一家旗舰店位于纽约诺利塔区，是一处简约的空间，立面是装饰着原始鸢尾花图案的锡墙，开启了他们香水制作的传统。
“Le Labo” is a French word meaning laboratory. Founded in 2006 by Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi, Le Labo's interest in slow, patient exploration has led them to make a name for themselves in the marketplace with their artisanal slow perfumes. Its first flagship store, located in New York's Nolita neighborhood, is a minimalist space with a façade of tin walls adorned with original iris motifs that kicked off their perfume-making tradition.
01
Kyoto
京都旗舰店
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Le Labo京都店坐落在一条安静的林荫道上，旁边是一条运河，时有白鹭停歇、飞掠。这家店原是町屋，曾为一个历经三代的家族酿酒厂，历史可以追溯到1879年，后来变成了一家花店，而后一直空置，直到Royer开始邀请当地工匠进行翻修，希望赋予这座建筑新的生命力。
Le Labo Kyoto is located on a quiet boulevard next to a canal where egrets stop and fly by. Originally a machiya, a three-generation family brewery dating back to 1879, the store was turned into a flower store and then left vacant until Royer began inviting local artisans to renovate the building in hopes of giving it new life.
Royer委托Schemata Architects进行翻新，试图在将原始、裸露的建筑与热轧钢件和复古家具相结合的空间中建立了起品牌形象，展现中古物件与侘寂（wabi-sabi）美学的内在本质。他们一致认为，必须构建一个能够反映京都这座古老町屋历史背景的场域，因而，它在结构和风格上与混凝土建筑的店铺有所不同。
Royer commissioned Schemata Architects to carry out the renovation, seeking to establish a brand identity in a space that combines raw, exposed architecture with hot-rolled steel and vintage furniture, showcasing the inherent essence of medieval objects and the wabi-sabi aesthetic. They agreed that it was important to build a space that reflected the historical context of this old townhouse in Kyoto, and thus it is structurally and stylistically different from a concrete store.
02
Cultures
文化融合
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如何将日本文化和西方文化相结合？首先应该在哪里脱鞋？榻榻米房间的展示应该是什么样的？商品展示架的高度应如何确定，以便顾客在日本风格的空间中能够一眼看到？如何将照明融入历史建筑中？如何将融入日本文化的空间形象建立起来？在保持空间清洁以安全陈列产品的同时，应该保留建筑的原始部分到何种程度？如何在木质结构中置入品牌的经典装饰？
How to combine Japanese and Western culture? Where should I take off my shoes in the first place? What should a display look like in a tatami room? How should the height of merchandise displays be determined so that customers can see them at a glance in a Japanese-style space? How can lighting be incorporated into historical buildings? How can I establish an image of a space that incorporates Japanese culture? To what extent should the original parts of the building be preserved while keeping the space clean for safe product display? How do you incorporate a brand's classic décor into a wooden structure?
建筑师Jo Nagasaka与Le Labo及创意总监Deborah Royer反复讨论了这些问题，解决了从设计到规划、家具细节和古董家具选择的所有问题。具体来说，台面、墙架、楼梯及其他建筑元素使用了町屋的语言，涂料方案与现有的涂料一致，采用了古董色彩的红土色（bengara）和松烟色（shoen）。主要选择了古董日本家具用于展示，并为各个位置挑选了复古西方照明设备。
Architect Jo Nagasaka and Le Labo's creative director, Deborah Royer, discussed these issues over and over again to explore the optimal solution. As a result, the countertops, wall shelves, staircase and other forms utilize the architectural language of Machiya; the paint is consistent with the existing paint in the antique colors of bengara and shoen; antique Japanese furniture was chosen for the space's displays, and vintage Western lighting was selected for each area.
Deborah Royer
我喜欢不完美、有点破损的东西，欣赏它们本身所具有的美学魅力。
I love things that are imperfect and a little broken and appreciate them for their own aesthetic appeal.
03
Cracked
不完美之美
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这处日本风格的空间被置于一个传统文化深远、与现代城市截然不同的古老城市之中。通过精心的设计考虑，连接和融合町屋建筑与新的装置、家具以及产品，它体现了Le Labo的品牌精神，对时间、历史、工艺、手工和嗅觉质感的重视。
This Japanese-inspired space is placed in the midst of an ancient city with a profoundly traditional culture, very different from the modern city. Through careful design considerations, connecting and fusing the Machiya architecture with new installations, furniture, and products, it embodies the spirit of Le Labo's brand, with its emphasis on time, history, craftsmanship, handmade and olfactory textures.
拾阶而上，铺着两张榻榻米的房间里摆放了一台“香薰机”——内置数百个装满精油的玻璃瓶和小瓶，还有一间专门为来此工作的京都艺术家布置的工作室。
Up the steps, a room with two tatami mats houses an “aromatherapy machine” with hundreds of glass bottles and vials filled with essential oils, as well as an atelier for Kyoto-based artists who come to work here.
这处日本风格的空间被置于一个传统文化深远、与现代城市截然不同的古老城市之中。通过精心的设计考虑，连接和融合町屋建筑与新的装置、家具以及产品，它体现了Le Labo的品牌精神，对时间、历史、工艺、手工和嗅觉质感的重视。
This Japanese-inspired space is placed in the midst of an ancient city with a profoundly traditional culture, very different from the modern city. Through careful design considerations, connecting and fusing the Machiya architecture with new installations, furniture, and products, it embodies the spirit of Le Labo's brand, with its emphasis on time, history, craftsmanship, handmade and olfactory textures.
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校对 Proof：Lu Jieyi
图片 Image : Le Labo
摄影 Photo : Le Labo
