谷行 x Tomba Brion | 斯卡帕的死亡之诗

文摘   文化   2024-05-28 18:52   新加坡  

布里昂墓园(Tomba Brion),位于意大利特雷维索附近的San Vito d'Altivole,是布里昂家族的安息之地。这座建筑杰作由卡洛-斯卡帕(Carlo Scarpa)设计,他是布里昂家族的朋友。在接受委托时,斯卡帕问:“你想葬在哪里?”这里是生命、死亡和自然的诗意交汇。

Tomba Brion, located in San Vito d'Altivole near Treviso, Italy, is the serene resting place of the Brion family. This architectural masterpiece was designed by Carlo Scarpa, a friend of the Brion family. When commissioned for the project, Scarpa asked, "Where do you want to be buried?" Here is the poetic convergence of life, death, and nature.




我们此次建筑之旅的领队是Guido Pietropoli,他是一位杰出的建筑师,1970 年毕业于IUAV威尼斯建筑大学,师从斯卡帕。他曾在勒-柯布西耶位于威尼斯的工作室工作,并与斯卡帕密切合作,直到 1978 年斯卡帕去世。他的见解丰富了我们对斯卡帕设计理念的理解。Alba Di Lieto 与 Paolo Belloni 也与我们一起。感谢他们的讲解。

Our guide for this journey was Guido Pietropoli, a distinguished architect who graduated from the IUAV in Venice in 1970 under the supervision of Carlo Scarpa. Pietropoli's career is a testament to his dedication to architecture, having worked in Le Corbusier's atelier in Venice and collaborated closely with Scarpa until his death in 1978. His insights enriched our understanding of Scarpa's vision. We were also accompanied by Alba Di Lieto and Paolo Belloni. Thanks for their explanation of this masterpiece.


通往布里昂墓的道路有两个:老街和新街。老街朝东,象征性地引导游客从日落走向日出,与宗教中朝向启蒙的主题相呼应。我们走着,周围是鸟叫声,它为我们的脚步增添了宁静的背景音。墓的地面被抬高,形成了一座土丘,自然地从大地中隆起。在入口处,远处传来钟声。斯卡帕以其对细节的敏锐洞察力,将围墙精确地倾斜了60度。这里第一个抓住我们眼睛的是一个熟悉的符号: “,双倍的喜乐。

The approach to the Brion tomb offers two entrances: the old street and the new street. The old street is oriented to the east, symbolically guiding visitors from sunset to sunrise, a journey that echoes religious themes of moving towards enlightenment. As we walked, birds chirped around us, adding a serene soundtrack to our steps. The ground of the tomb is elevated, forming a tumulus, a swelling that rises naturally from the earth. At the entrance, the distant ringing of a bell could be heard. Scarpa, with his keen sense for meaningful details, designed the wall at a precise angle of 60°. One of the first striking features we encountered was a familiar symbol: the Chinese character for double happiness.



穿过Propylaea长廊,这个入口让我们感觉与公共墓地明显不同,我们进入了一个神圣的空间。门上的双环就像一双眼睛,吸引着我们进入墓的中心。在粗野的混凝土桥下,布里昂夫妇的棺静静地躺在那里,温暖的木质盖板与冰冷的混凝土形成鲜明对比。墓穴被放在阳光最充足的地方,它超越了物理形态,成为一种诗意的姿态。墓室上的拱不仅能抵御风雨,也是象征性的天蓬,在生命中,两个被爱紧紧相连的灵魂,将在这里继续他们永恒的旅程。

Passing through the Propylaea, a gateway that made us feel distinctly removed from the public cemetery, we entered a sacred space. The two circles of the gateway felt like eyes drawing us into the heart of the tomb. Beneath a raw concrete bridge lay the coffins of Mr. and Mrs. Brion, the warm wood of their coverings contrasting with the cold concrete. Positioned strategically to embrace the sunniest locale, the tomb transcends its physical form to become a poetic gesture. Its vaulted ceiling not only offers protection from the elements but also serves as a symbolic canopy under which two souls, bound by love in life, continue their eternal journey together.



我们低着头,慢慢地走进家族小教堂。在里面,我们注意到顶上有一个缺口。这是为了接住雨滴,营造一种有韵律的沉思氛围。按照传统,这个开口也是灵魂逃逸和到达天堂的象征性通道。从建筑学的角度来看,它就像一个日晷,随着时间的流逝,光与影在空间中移动。透过教堂的窗户,我们瞥见了外面的水和莲花,仿佛在邀请我们进入花园。这里种植的柏树让人联想到托斯卡纳的风景,火焰般的外观象征着超越,仿佛火焰在将灵魂向上托举,更接近神灵。

With our heads bowed, we slowly entered the family chapel. Inside, we noticed a missing part in the ceiling. This was designed to catch raindrops, creating a rhythmic, contemplative atmosphere. This opening, in line with tradition, was also a symbolic passage for the soul to escape and reach the heavens. Architecturally, it acted like a sundial, allowing sunlight and shadows to move across the space as time passed. Through the church's windows, we glimpsed the water and flowers outside, an invitation to the garden. The cypresses planted here evoked the Tuscan landscape, their flame-like appearance symbolizing transcendence, as if the flames were carrying the spirit upwards, closer to the divine.


Guido贴心地为我们准备了旧导览的复印本,让我们有机会看到墓园修复前的面貌。这里的布局让我们想起了中国的古典园林,建筑围绕着水景精心布置,营造出和谐的流动感,鼓励人们静静地徜徉其中。我们最终来到了位于水面上的冥想亭。水流指引着我们,就像一股隐喻死亡的抽吸,为生命提供了一种矛盾的力量,引领我们进入亭子。

Guido had thoughtfully prepared copies of the old guide for us, offering a glimpse of the tomb before its restoration. The layout reminded us of a classic Chinese garden, with buildings meticulously arranged around water features, creating a harmonious flow that encouraged peaceful wandering. We eventually arrived at the meditation pavilion, positioned over water. The water guided us like a metaphorical current of death, offering a paradoxical power to life and leading us into the pavilion.


可惜的是,进入的门现在被锁住了,这让Guido非常沮丧。最初,人们必须费力地推下玻璃门,弯腰才能进入,这是从公共到个人内省的转变,并且是具身性的。斯卡帕的设计强制性地要求游客坐下来,看到外面,感受与天空和大地的联系。亭子下面的水似乎很神秘,有着漆黑、深邃的底。

Unfortunately, the entrance door was now blocked, much to Guido's dismay. Originally, one had to push the glass door down with some effort, bending as they entered, embodying the transition from the public to personal introspection. Scarpa’s design encouraged visitors to sit, look outside, and feel connected to both the sky and the ground. The water beneath the pavilion seemed mysterious, with a dark, enigmatic bed.


准备离开时,我们才注意到斯卡帕的安息之地,一个隐蔽而谦逊的地方。斯卡帕说,法国诗人Paul Verlaine给了他的灵感,后者曾写下诗句“la vie passe en fleurs ”,这或许可以概括布里昂墓的精神。生命的短暂之美,如花朵般稍纵即逝,而死亡,也并不恐惧,不过是自然而平静的转变。

As we prepared to leave, we finally observed Scarpa’s resting place, secluded and fittingly modest. Scarpa once said he was inspired by the French poet Paul Verlaine, whose words "la vie passe en fleurs" encapsulates the ethos of the Brion Tomb. Life, in its fleeting beauty, passes like flowers, and death, far from being feared, becomes a natural and serene transition.




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