“Mute flowers” … behind this so poetic expression are hidden, not flowers without smell, but on the contrary very fragrant flowers which do not deliver any secret, do not reveal anything. Clearly, they do not deliver any extract that can be used in a perfume. No extraction process can capture it, so it must be reconstituted.
“无声的花”……在这种诗意的表达背后隐藏着，不是没有气味的花，而是非常芬芳的花，不传递任何秘密，不透露任何东西。显然，它们不提供任何可以用于香水的提取物。任何提取过程都无法捕获它，所以它必须重新构成。
A fantastic playground for perfumers! Let’s decipher it in an interview with perfumer and aromachologist Patty Canac, an olfactory expert, author of several books on perfume, professor at ISIPCA and also olfactory therapist in hospitals. Thanks to her for her precious testimony!
这是调香师的梦幻乐园!让我们通过对调香师和芳香学家Patty Canac的采访来解读它。Patty Canac是一位嗅觉专家，著有几本关于香水的书，是法国香料香精化妆品高等专科学校(ISIPCA)的教授，也是医院的嗅觉治疗师。感谢她宝贵的见证!
What is a “mute flower “?
什么是“无声花”?
“Perfumers have always looked for the best methods of obtaining odors, and it is the Arabs around the 10th century who taught us the art of distillation, because before they used enfleurage (infusion of flowers in heated fatty substances, fatty substances naturally absorbing odors).
“调香师一直在寻找获得气味的最佳方法，大约在10世纪的阿拉伯人教会了我们蒸馏的艺术，因为在他们使用脂吸法(将花浸泡在加热的脂肪物质中，脂肪物质自然会吸收气味)之前。
But not all flowers wish to deliver their olfactory secrets, and curiously it is the most fragrant flowers on the outside, such as lily of the valley, violet, honeysuckle, that remain silent.
但并不是所有的花都愿意透露它们的嗅觉秘密，奇怪的是，只有最香的花属于这类，比如铃兰、紫罗兰、忍冬，是保持沉默的。
The famous perfumer Edmond Roudnitzka created Diorissimo, an ode to the lily of the valley, working for several years (in praise of the passage of time…) with the idea of getting as close as possible to what the flower does not deliver with all the existing methods of obtaining it.
著名调香师埃德蒙·罗德尼茨卡(Edmond Roudnitzka)创作了《迪奥之韵》，这是一首献给铃兰的颂歌，他工作了好几年(赞美时间的流逝……)，他的想法是用所有现有的方法尽可能地接近这朵花所不能提供的东西。
There are many silent or mute flowers: wisteria, violets, carnations, hyacinths, gardenias, peonies, lilacs… And then there are also those that deliver, but are not as “pretty” as in nature. They need to be dressed, reworked, put in majesty, like the mimosa, or the osmanthus, extraordinary flowers that need to be “reboosted”.
有许多沉默或无声的花：紫藤、紫罗兰、康乃馨、风信子、栀子花、牡丹、紫丁香……还有一些花会开花，但不像自然界中那样“漂亮”。它们需要打扮，需要重新加工，需要庄严，就像含羞草或桂花一样，这些非凡的花朵需要“重新振作”。
Have scientific advances given these flowers a voice?
科学进步给了这些花一个声音吗?
“The mute flowers lost some of their silence more than 170 years ago, with the discovery of organic chemistry, which made it possible to make them speak.
“170多年前，随着有机化学的发现，沉默的花朵失去了部分沉默，这使得让它们说话成为可能。
Thus, in 1868, coumarin (from tonka beans) was first synthesized by W.H. Perkin, and introduced by Guerlain twenty years later in the famous Jicky.
因此，在1868年，W.H. Perkin首先合成了香豆素(从唐卡豆中提取)，并在20年后由娇兰在著名的“掌上明珠”中引入。
These synthetic molecules gave a fabulous palette to perfumers, to allow the mute lily of the valley or the peony that did not deliver its olfactory secret, to be reconstituted.
这些合成分子为调香师提供了一个美妙的调色板，让沉默的铃兰或没有传递其嗅觉秘密的牡丹得以重组。
Thanks to CO2, we managed to do something masterful, thanks to the headspace too, we can better import facets or find interesting things.
多亏了超临界二氧化碳萃取，我们成功地制备了一些有香的样品，也多亏了顶空固相微萃取，我们可以更好地导入香气或发现有趣的东西。
And so, these mute or silent flowers become less and less so, thanks to chemistry and the latest research, to everything we are now able to analyze to better reproduce them.”
因此，由于化学和最新的研究，这些无声的花变得越来越少，我们现在能够更好地分析它们。”
Do some flowers make other flowers speak?
有些花能让其他花说话吗?
“Yes, absolutely, because a flower is composed of a whole bunch of molecules, it’s like a puzzle, and some of them are common to other flowers, and will contribute to give them a voice. The perfume of a flower is composed of multiple facets, and we are now able to understand, to isolate a raw material in a composition. For example geraniol ;
“是的，绝对是这样，因为一朵花是由一大堆分子组成的，就像一个拼图，其中一些分子对其他花来说是共同的，这将有助于它们发出声音。一朵花的香味是由多个面组成的，我们现在能够理解，在一个成分中分离出一种原料。例如香叶醇;
it is present in the rose and in many other flowers like lavender, and by isolating it, we can then put other flowers in majesty. This has been the extraordinary discovery of organic chemistry; common odorant molecules exist between a geranium and a palma rosa, and like geraniol, there is linalool… which is also found in coriander, bergamot, rosewood, lavender. We have common puzzles, so there is 80% eugenol in clove, and if we are able to isolate eugenol, we can reconstruct a carnation and other flowers!”
它存在于玫瑰和薰衣草等许多其他花中，通过分离它，我们可以让其他花变得高贵。这是有机化学的非凡发现；常见的气味分子存在于天竺葵和帕尔马玫瑰之间，像香叶醇一样，还有芳樟醇，也存在于香菜、佛手柑、红木和薰衣草中。我们有共同的困惑，所以丁香中有80%的丁香酚，如果我们能够分离出丁香酚，我们就可以重建康乃馨和其他花!”
How does the perfumer work with a mute flower?
调香师是怎么处理一朵无声的花的?
“He works to reinterpret it. So to reproduce a hyacinth, he takes a component of the rose and other flowers, and puts them in the hyacinth, to create another puzzle that will give THE hyacinth he wants to give. Because there is not only one hyacinth, it is like in a garden, there are many different ones, and not all of them have the same fragrance. And the perfumer has his own free will… This is where his artistic touch and his talent come into play. Because the role of a “nose” is not to compose a soliproduct, a single flower, but to tell its story, to dress it as when we put jewels, precious stones, to put in majesty what they have to say. And what he wants to say. It’s an artist’s work.
“他努力重新诠释它。所以为了重塑风信子，他取了玫瑰和其他花的一个成分，把它们放在风信子里，创造出另一个谜题，将给他想给的风信子。因为风信子不只有一种，就像在花园里一样，有许多不同的风信子，并不是所有的风信子都有相同的香味。调香师有自己的自由意志，这就是他的艺术触觉和才华发挥作用的地方。因为“鼻子”的作用不是组成一个单一的产品，一朵花，而是讲述它的故事，把它打扮得像我们放珠宝、宝石一样，把它们必须说的话庄严地呈现出来。以及他想说什么。这是艺术家的作品。
How are muted flowers being processed?
无声花是如何加工的?
“This has evolved over time, because we don’t want the same thing from a perfume today as we did 20 or 30 years ago, when we liked more transparent notes for example… Now, we expect the perfume to be tenacious, so our mute flowers will be very reworked and “boosted” to be more present. Like everywhere, perfumery – or at least part of it – is subject to fashion… “
“随着时间的推移，这已经发生了变化，因为我们不希望今天的香水和二三十年前一样，当时我们喜欢更透明的味道……现在，我们希望香水能有韧性，所以我们的无声之花会被重新设计，‘增强’，让它更真实。”就像其他地方一样，香水——或者至少是香水的一部分——是受时尚影响的……”
How to explain that the most fragrant flowers are the most silent?
怎么解释最香的花是最沉默的?
“They are always very fleeting flowers, not very long-lasting: lily of the valley or lilac last few days compared to a magnolia for example. It is also necessary to make the difference between tree flowers (magnolia, ylang-ylang, mimosa…), bulbous flowers (iris), flowers from which only the petals are taken (rose..) etc. They do not grow in the same way, are not fed with molecules in the same way. And then, it’s also a bit of nature’s magic!”
“它们都是非常短暂的花，不是很持久：例如，与木兰相比，铃兰或紫丁香只能持续几天。也有必要区分树花(玉兰花、依兰依兰、含羞草……)、球茎花(鸢尾花)、只取花瓣的花(玫瑰……)等。它们以不同的方式生长，以不同的方式获得分子。而且，这也是大自然的魔力!”
About the Linden, a mute of perfumery, why has it been so little used, when there is a great emotional attachment to its scent?
关于菩提树，一种无声的香水，为什么它很少被使用，当人们对它的气味有巨大的情感依恋时?
“It is indeed a very endearing flower, which has been around since the dawn of time, and has been celebrated by great painters like Monet, and literature with Proust. It has been used but always in small facets because the flower was considered close to cosmetics, soothing and evanescent, and especially in Asian markets where they were not looking for power, because it is a flower that I would describe as “pastel. “
“它确实是一种非常可爱的花，从文明诞生的黎明开始就存在了，被莫奈等伟大的画家和普鲁斯特等文学作品所歌颂。它一直被使用，但总是在小的方面，因为这种花被认为接近化妆品，舒缓和短暂，特别是在亚洲市场，他们不寻求力量，因为它是一种花，我会形容为“粉彩”。
What are the characteristics of the linden flower fragrance?
菩提树花香味的特点是什么?
“For me, it has a pastel elegance… The talent of the perfumer Francis Kurkdjian was, among other things, to work with long-lastingness and modernity.
“对我来说，它有一种柔和的优雅……调香师弗朗西斯·库尔吉安(Francis Kurkdjian)的才华在于，他的作品具有持久性和现代感。”
It soothes the mind, which in the current period is very expected, it is a smell in mute but still floating in the air, a divine smell. It brings the classical music side, with its soft timeless notes. It has a strong memorial dimension! The lime tree is reassuring, it evokes the possibility of being ingested, to calm, to tranquilize, to bring quietude, but also it offers a whole side of silence … We take a lounge chair, a book, it is a moment between oneself and oneself, it is an effluence that promotes introspection.
它能抚慰心灵，这在当下是非常值得期待的，它是一种无声的气味，但仍然漂浮在空气中，一种神圣的气味。它带来了古典音乐的一面，它的柔软的永恒的音符。它有很强的纪念意义!酸橙树让人安心，它唤起了被摄取的可能性，让人镇定，让人缓和，带来平静，但它也提供了沉默的整个方面……我们拿着一张躺椅，一本书，这是自己和自己之间的时刻，这是促进内省的一种宣泄。
L’Eau Qui Enlace is delicious everywhere, at any time. It goes far beyond a fragrance that smells good, because it is in the register of pure emotion. Many perfumes are worn to be elegant when going out, or to seduce. They play a “social” role. This one, for me, acts in the opposite way; once you diffuse it, it makes you “want to settle down”. It puts you in a “posture”, and this is very rare: once sprayed, you say “wow”, it makes you want to sit down, to settle down, to read, to dream, it allows you to go into a memorial moment, as if you were really taking a meditative break, and it provokes the desire to give yourself this break.
无论何时何地，菩提之水都是美好的。它远远超出了一种香味，因为它是一个纯粹的情感记录者。许多香水都是为了在外出时显得优雅，或者是为了吸引人。他们扮演着“社会”角色。这个，对我来说，正好相反;一旦你驱散了它，它会让你“想要安定下来”。它让你处于一种“姿势”，这是非常罕见的:一旦喷上，你说“哇”，它让你想坐下来，安顿下来，阅读，做梦，它让你进入一个纪念时刻，就好像你真的在冥想休息，它激发了你给自己休息的欲望。
How do you explain this memorial power of the linden tree?
你如何解释菩提树的纪念力量?
“At the Palace of Versailles, there are a lot of linden trees, you walk along the avenues and you are lulled by the smell of linden trees, even if people don’t know it. Alain Baraton, the head gardener, says that the linden tree is fabulous because it is “the past that is in the present”, it is the long dress, the relaxation, the cup of tea in the shade.
“在凡尔赛宫，有很多菩提树，你走在大街上，你会被菩提树的气味所陶醉，即使人们不知道。园艺师阿兰·巴拉顿(Alain Baraton)说，菩提树令人难以置信，因为它是“存在于现在的过去”，它是长裙，是放松，是树荫下的一杯茶。
There is a family side to the linden tree, solitude, and at the same time sharing. We are in the sharing AND in the intimate, it is paradoxical! We are not far from the mimosa which evokes the blue, the sea and the sun, while the linden tree evokes calm and introspection. It must play on the autonomic nervous system, be on the para-sympathetic part: reduced heartbeat etc… And psychologically, the visualization of this tree invites you to “descend” from your nervous system into the rest and relaxation box, rather than dynamism.”
菩提树有家庭的一面，孤独，同时也有分享。我们既在分享中又在亲密中，这是矛盾的!我们离含羞草不远，含羞草让人想起蓝色、大海和阳光，而菩提树让人想起平静和自省。它必须在自主神经系统上发挥作用，在副交感神经部分：心跳减慢等等……从心理学上讲，这棵树的可视化邀请你从你的神经系统“下降”到休息和放松的盒子里，而不是活力。”
And finally Patti, what is your personal story with the linden tree ?
最后，帕蒂，你和菩提树的个人故事是什么?
“It brings me back to moments of joy, of happiness! When I smell the lime tree, I look at my surroundings with a different eye and I say to myself, “I feel good here”. This is probably due to my childhood when there were linden trees in the family garden. It’s a smell that has been present since I was a little girl, there have always been linden trees in my house. These trees have always been present everywhere, even in the Paris region, and lindens have accompanied everyone; it is a tree that is part of history, it was part of the sacred plants and was used by the druids, but it is still very current. Moreover, when we are told how to sleep better, to have good dreams, everyone thinks of the linden tree!”
“它把我带回了快乐、幸福的时刻!”当我闻到酸橙树的味道时，我会用不同的眼光看待周围的环境，然后对自己说:“我在这里感觉很好。”这可能是因为我小时候家里的花园里种着菩提树。这种气味从我还是个小女孩的时候就存在了，我的房子里一直有菩提树。这些树一直存在于任何地方，甚至在巴黎地区，菩提树陪伴着每个人;这棵树是历史的一部分，它是神圣植物的一部分，被德鲁伊使用，但它仍然非常流行。此外，当我们被告知如何睡得更好，做个好梦时，每个人都想到了菩提树!”
And what better conclusion on the linden tree, our beloved mute flower, than that of Elisabeth Martorell, editor of French ELLE magazine, who said of L’Eau Qui Enlace TiL:
还有什么比法国ELLE杂志编辑伊丽莎白·马托雷尔对菩提树——我们心爱的无声之花——的评价更好的呢?她这样评价菩提之水:
“A little marvel of softness and delicacy, an olfactory cuddle in a period saturated with perfumes that slam.”
“柔软细腻的小奇迹，在充满香水的时间里，来一次嗅觉上的拥抱。”
