香水原料:走向更可持续的提取技术

文摘科学 2025-01-06 07:05 上海

19 February 2024

A major issue in the transformation of the perfume value chain, extraction techniques for natural ingredients are undergoing a revolution. Climate change and new consumer expectations are accelerating the drive towards greater sustainability. Perfume companies have been innovating to offer solutions that reduce the use of petrochemicals and resources, while maintaining high-quality olfactory profiles for the new ingredients. Here is an overview of these advances, all converging towards the same goal.

天然成分的提取技术正在经历一场革命，这是香水价值链转型的一个主要问题。气候变化和新的消费者期望正在加速实现更大的可持续性。香水公司一直在创新，提供减少石化产品和资源使用的解决方案，同时保持新成分的高质量气味特征。以下是对这些进步的概述，它们都朝着同一个目标前进。

Naturalness is now a must 天然已成为必须

Naturalness is no longer an option for consumers, whose ecological awareness and need for transparency are growing by the day. 68% of consumers say they would like to see more responsible perfumes, according to the Firmenich Hub Global Study conducted in 2021. Now, all perfume brands – and not just specialist niche brands – want to highlight their “green” ingredients. For example, in December 2023, the advertising campaign for Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria Forte clearly featured the statement “More than 90% natural origin.”

天然不再是消费者的选择，他们的生态意识和对透明度的需求日益增长。根据2021年进行的芬美意中心全球研究，68%的消费者表示他们希望看到更多负责任的香水。现在，所有的香水品牌——不仅仅是专业的小众品牌——都想突出他们的“绿色”成分。例如，在2023年12月，娇兰(Guerlain)的Aqua alleoria Forte的广告宣传活动中，明确地写着“90%以上的天然来源”。

And yet, natural ingredient extraction does not always rhyme with sustainability. On the one hand, conventional distillation processes for natural ingredients require water and high energy consumption in order to reach the temperature of 100°C required for condensation (the vapour takes the odorous components out of the plants). On the other hand, extraction with volatile solvents can be polluting. Therefore, perfume companies seek to give up on these two processes.

然而，天然成分提取并不总是与可持续性相一致。一方面，天然成分的传统蒸馏过程需要水和高能耗，以达到冷凝所需的100°C温度(蒸汽将气味成分从植物中带走)。另一方面，用挥发性溶剂萃取会造成污染。因此，香水公司试图放弃这两个过程。

Air extraction to capture the scent of fresh flowers 空气提取，捕捉鲜花的香味

At the end of 2023, the L’Oréal group announced an exclusive partnership with Cosmo International Fragrances to deploy a new approach to natural ingredient extraction based on green sciences. “Cosmo International Fragrance worked for five years to develop this new extraction process. It is a green innovation in that it is petrochemical- and heat-free. This slow technique involves capturing the volatile fragrant molecules using the air flow,” explains Alexandrine Demachy, Managing Director France of Cosmo International Fragrances.

2023年底，欧康集团宣布与Cosmo国际香水公司建立独家合作伙伴关系，部署一种基于绿色科学的天然成分提取新方法。“Cosmo国际香水公司花了五年的时间来开发这种新的提取工艺。这是一项绿色创新，因为它不含石化和热量。这种缓慢的技术包括利用气流捕捉挥发性芳香分子，”Cosmo国际香水公司法国总经理亚历山大·德马奇解释说。

Initially, this new technology was applied to tuberose, a legendary perfume flower. “The idea is to let the flower express itself. When you close your eyes, you are on the flower,” adds Alexandrine Demachy. “The partnership with L’Oréal’s Green Sciences department opens up new possibilities for us, in particular that of processing silent flowers, the grail of perfumers. It is also very rewarding for our research and development team.”

最初，这项新技术被应用于晚香玉，一种传说中的香水花。“我们的想法是让花表达自己。当你闭上眼睛，你就在花上，”Alexandrine Demachy补充道。“与欧莱雅绿色科学部的合作为我们开辟了新的可能性，特别是在处理无显香的花朵方面，这是调香师的圣杯。这对我们的研发团队来说也是非常有益的。”

This process differs from Head Space, which requires laboratory recreation after analyzing the olfactory spectrum of flowers in their natural environment. Here, picking is a necessary operation. “The advantage of our system is that it is very agile and mobile. We can process the flowers directly in the field to capture their volatile molecules. The flowers remain intact throughout the process, they can have a second life and be processed differently, offering a second olfactory profile. This way, no waste is generated,” points out Alexandrine Demachy. “Traditional processes still exist. We are not replacing these ingredients (essential oils, extracts, essences, etc.), because we do not capture the flower in its entirety, just its fragrance. On the other hand, we add a new product to the perfumer’s palette: the smell of the fresh plant characterized by its volatile molecules.”

这一过程与“顶空”不同，后者需要在分析了花朵在自然环境中的嗅觉光谱后，在实验室进行再创造。在这里，挑选是一个必要的操作。“我们系统的优势在于它非常灵活和可携带性。我们可以直接在田间处理这些花来获取它们的挥发性分子。鲜花在整个过程中保持完整，它们可以有第二次生命，并以不同的方式处理，提供第二次嗅觉。这样就不会产生浪费，”亚历山大·德马奇指出。“传统流程仍然存在。我们不会替换这些成分(精油、提取物、精华等)，因为我们不会捕捉到花的全部，只会捕捉到它的香味。另一方面，我们在调香师的调色板上添加了一种新产品:新鲜植物的气味，其挥发性分子的特征。”

Minimizing water and energy consumption

尽量减少水和能源消耗

Symrise, for its part, has been communicating since 2018 on the SymTrap process, which reduces the extraction carbon footprint, while recovering residues from the agri-food industry. These residues are mainly in the form of aqueous solutions (e.g. residual juice from fruit extraction). This upcycling model has a very low impact, because it is a cold process free from chemical solvents. SymTrap ingredients substitute natural fruity notes, which perfumers previously lacked, for synthetic molecules such as C14 aldehyde (for the scent of peach) or Laire Prunol base (for plum).

自2018年以来，Symrise一直在就SymTrap工艺进行沟通，该工艺减少了提取的碳足迹，同时从农业食品工业中回收残留物。这些残留物主要以水溶液的形式存在(例如，水果提取过程中残留的果汁)。这种升级回收模式的影响非常小，因为它是一个不含化学溶剂的冷过程。SymTrap的成分用C14醛(用于桃子香味)或莱尔普鲁醇基(用于李子香味)等合成分子代替了以前调香师缺乏的天然水果香味。

Since 2019, SymTrap vegetables (artichoke, asparagus, leek, cauliflower and onion) have been added, bringing new sharpness to the perfumer’s palette and opening up other creative perspectives. “Before the arrival of Symrise’s Garden Labs, we had to use our olfactory memory to recreate a scent close to the vegetable. So, this new collection of natural ingredients is very disruptive and rewarding,” says Alexandra Carlin, Perfumer at Symrise.

自2019年以来，加入了SymTrap蔬菜(朝鲜蓟、芦笋、韭菜、花椰菜和洋葱)，为调香师的调色板带来了新的尖锐感，并开辟了其他创意视角。“在Symrise’s Garden Labs到来之前，我们不得不利用嗅觉记忆来创造一种接近蔬菜的气味。所以，这个新的天然成分系列非常具有颠覆性和回报，”Symrise的调香师亚历山德拉·卡林(Alexandra Carlin)说。

At dsm-firmenich, naturalness is also a key issue. The company promotes its Firgood technology, which works with electromagnetic vibrations, mainly using the water already contained in the biomass as the extraction vector. The benefits are diverse: lower water and energy consumption and reduced heat exposure time for the raw materials, which preserves the integrity of heat-sensitive olfactory molecules.

在帝斯曼-芬美意，天然也是一个关键问题。该公司推广其Firgood技术，该技术利用电磁振动，主要利用生物质中已经包含的水作为提取载体。其好处是多种多样的：降低水和能源消耗，减少原料的热暴露时间，从而保持热敏嗅觉分子的完整性。

“Firgood opens up new olfactory territories for perfumers, with different facets and premium profiles,” says Mélanie Verhille, Sustainable Perfumery Marketing & Communication Director / Sustainability Strategy at dsm-firmenich. Firgood also makes it possible to process new plants or silent flowers that have not yet been exploited in fine perfumery. These advances in impact reduction also have a concomitant effect: that of broadening the creative palette of perfumers.

芬美意可持续香水营销与传播总监/可持续发展战略Mélanie Verhille表示：“Firgood为调香师开辟了新的嗅觉领域，具有不同的方面和优质的特征。Firgood还可以加工尚未在高级香水中使用的新植物或无香花。在减少影响方面取得的这些进展还带来了伴随的影响：拓宽了调香师的创意调色板。

In this quest for naturalness, virtuous methods combine to improve the environmental performance of the final fragrance. At dsm-firmenich, the Protopia base for fine perfumes combines an extract of Firgood Pear, several over-cycled materials (Geraniol 60 RC, Romandolide, a cedar of Virginia), and captive molecules obtained with biotechnology (Ambrox Super and Pulpanat).

在追求自然的过程中，良性的方法结合起来提高最终香水的环保性能。在芬美意，生产高级香水的Protopia基础结合了Firgood梨的提取物，几种过度循环的材料(香叶醇60 RC，罗曼多利德，弗吉尼亚州的雪松)和生物技术获得的捕获分子(Ambrox Super和Pulpanat)。

A new generation of greener solvents

新一代环保溶剂

At the Fragrance Innovation Summit 2023, Robertet, an expert in natural ingredients, took stock of its CleanRScent programme launched ten years ago. This continuous improvement programme is aimed to develop green technologies and solvents with a high degree of biodegradability and recyclability.

在2023年香水创新峰会上，天然成分专家罗伯特特(Robertet)回顾了十年前推出的CleanRScent项目。这项持续改进计划旨在开发具有高度生物可降解性和可回收性的绿色技术和溶剂。

This innovation is based on the use of Dimethyl Carbonate, an alternative solvent whose extraction performance is comparable to that of hexane, only without any impact on health, and with a low environmental footprint. “This process, which led to two patents, is now cost-effective on an industrial scale”, says Céline Louis Ughetto, Head of Product Management – F&F ingredients at Robertet Group. Today, the CleanRScent collection includes absolutes (Maté, Toasted Tonka Bean, Bourbon Vanilla) and a bleached cypress wood. These high-quality ingredients provide olfactory profiles that are very close to nature.

这项创新是基于使用碳酸二甲酯，这是一种替代溶剂，其提取性能与己烷相当，只是对健康没有任何影响，而且对环境的影响很小。罗伯特集团(Robertet Group)食品和食品配料产品管理主管斯莱伊·路易斯·乌格托表示：“这一过程获得了两项专利，现在在工业规模上具有成本效益。”今天，CleanRScent系列包括净油(马黛茶、烘唐卡豆、波旁香草)和漂白柏木。这些高品质的成分提供了非常接近天然的嗅觉特征。

Reinventing enfleurage 重塑花香的提取

Mane’s E-Pure Jungle Essences offer a responsible alternative to absolutes and are considered natural according to standard ISO 9235. They are based on perfume plants and flowers, using a process combining enfleurage in a first phase (with a neutral vegetable oil as a solvent) and supercritical CO2 extraction in a second phase. Mane’s E-Pure Jungle Essences are extremely faithful to what nature offers and are intended for the fine perfume industry.

曼氏的E-Pure丛林精华提供了一个负责任的替代品，绝对符合ISO 9235标准，被认为是天然的。它们以香水植物和花卉为基础，在第一阶段使用香料(以中性植物油作为溶剂)，在第二阶段使用超临界CO2萃取。曼氏的E-Pure丛林精华非常忠实于大自然提供的东西，专为高级香水行业设计。

Used in a second stage, supercritical CO2 extraction requires the temperature to be reduced to as low as 30°C in order to bring the carbon dioxide to a liquid state. What’s more, once depressurized, this alternative medium leaves no residual elements. It should be noted that CO2 can be obtained by recovering organic waste, in particular during methanization processes, which themselves generate green energy.

在第二阶段中，超临界CO2萃取需要将温度降至30°C，以使二氧化碳变为液态。更重要的是，一旦减压，这种替代介质就不会留下任何残留元素。应该指出的是，二氧化碳可以通过回收有机废物获得，特别是在甲烷化过程中，这本身就产生了绿色能源。

For its part, Maison Lautier 1795 – which brings together Symrise’s collections of perfume ingredients – provided insights on the enfleurage processes it has been testing since 2020 at various production sites, using locally-produced fats such as cocoa butter and jojoba oil. The results are also very convincing in terms of the aromatic spectrum and quality of the extracts.

就其本身而言，汇集了Symrise香水成分系列的Maison Lautier 1795提供了自2020年以来在各个生产基地测试的重塑提取工艺的见解，该工艺使用了当地生产的脂肪，如可可脂和荷荷芭油。结果在芳香谱和提取物质量方面也很有说服力。

Responsible sourcing supported by AI

由人工智能支持的负责任的采购

Beyond responsible sourcing, which is aimed to preserving both the lives of farming communities and biodiversity, environmental concerns also relate to the increasing scarcity of natural resources. At the end of 2023, Grasse-based Robertet became the first perfume group to install a BioPod designed by the start-up Interstellar Lab. The aim of this AI-managed greenhouse is to grow crops with a high added-value using the least resources possible, while generating a reduced carbon footprint. The Interstellar Lab start-up has since joined the L’Oréal Green Sciences Incubator programme as part of the L’Oréal for the Future programme.

除了负责任的采购(旨在保护农业社区的生活和生物多样性)之外，环境问题还与自然资源日益稀缺有关。2023年底，总部位于格拉斯的Robertet成为第一个安装由初创公司Interstellar Lab设计的生物BioPod的香水集团。这个人工智能管理的温室的目标是用尽可能少的资源种植高附加值的作物，同时减少碳足迹。星际实验室的初创企业已经加入了L ' oracimal绿色科学孵化器项目，作为L ' oracimal for The Future项目的一部分。

Advances in biotechnology

生物技术进展

Biotechnology is also one of the avenues being explored by perfume companies to reduce the use of fossil fuels. Fermentation using enzymes, natural proteins or other micro-organisms can be an effective replacement for chemical reagents.

生物技术也是香水公司正在探索的减少化石燃料使用的途径之一。利用酶、天然蛋白质或其他微生物进行发酵可以有效地替代化学试剂。

In 2019, Givaudan announced a new technique based on the fermentation of organic cane sugar to produce Ambrofix, a fully biodegradable alternative to ambergris. This product, in which all carbon atoms in the base material are recombined in the final product molecules, generates no carbon waste or pollutants. It is in line with the company’s FiveCarbon Path vision.

2019年，奇华顿宣布了一项基于有机蔗糖发酵生产Ambrofix的新技术，这是一种完全可生物降解的龙涎香替代品。该产品中基材中的所有碳原子在最终产品分子中重新组合，不产生碳废物或污染物。这符合该公司的“五碳之路”愿景。

Biocyclamol (Takasago)

For its part, Takasago is doing white biotechnology research based on the living world. Biocyclamol is produced from fully renewable resources and is biodegradable. This new ingredient has a tenacious floral note similar to that of lily of the valley, both pure and abstract.

Takasago正在进行以生物世界为基础的白色生物技术研究。生物环己醇是由完全可再生资源生产的，是可生物降解的。这种新成分有一种顽强的花香，类似于铃兰的花香，既纯净又抽象。

“At the end of the day, we are all trying to be more sustainable in our approaches, products and raw materials", says Alexandrine Demachy. “As manufacturers, we all need to advance our research on natural products and synthesis. We need to challenge ourselves. We all have the same brief (less solvents, less energy, etc.). Everyone, whether in industry or research, interprets this brief in their own way, with their own ideas and discoveries, and all solutions are complementary. The products released are all different, and that is to the benefit of perfumers, who have an ever-larger choice for their compositions.”

“归根结底，我们都在努力使我们的方法、产品和原材料更具可持续性，”Alexandrine Demachy说。“作为制造商，我们都需要推进对天然产物和合成的研究。我们需要挑战自我。我们都有同样的短暂(更少的溶剂，更少的能量，等等)。无论是工业界还是研究界，每个人都用自己的方式、自己的想法和发现来解读这份简报，所有的解决方案都是互补的。发布的产品都是不同的，这对调香师来说是有好处的，他们对自己的成分有了更多的选择。”

中外香料香精第一资讯

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