Jessica Rosval: A Rising Star Fusing Cultures Over Open Flame

美食   美食   2024-12-14 10:51   上海  

In late October this year, while attending the Ein Prosit culinary event in Udine, Italy, I had the opportunity to taste a luncheon meticulously prepared by Chef Jessica Rosval. Originally from Montreal, Canada, Rosval has been honing her culinary skills since the age of 15, accumulating over two decades of experience. She initially built her foundation in a modern French culinary environment in her hometown, later moving on to the mountainous region of British Columbia to serve as sous-chef under Melissa Craig. There, she deeply immersed herself in the “farm-to-table” philosophy, learning to observe her surroundings and utilize local ingredients.

A journey through Europe marked a turning point in her career. Within a week of arriving in Italy, she was profoundly inspired by the "Come to Italy with Me" menu at the world-renowned restaurant Osteria Francescana in Modena. This encounter solidified her resolve to join Massimo Bottura’s team. Seizing the opportunity to stage with Bottura, she relocated to Italy in 2013 and immersed herself in exploring the Emilia-Romagna countryside. At Casa Maria Luigia, the guesthouse of Osteria Francescana, she mastered Bottura’s iconic dishes to perfection. Five years later, she became the Chef de Cuisine of Casa Maria Luigia.

Osteria Francescana@michelinguide、Massimo Bottura

In 2023, Al Gatto Verde (“The Green Cat”) opened, it is a restaurant that seamlessly integrates the countryside environment, local ingredients, and Jessica's own creative vision. Just this year, she earned her very first Michelin star in Italy, a recognition of her talent and a sign that she is now a rising star in the culinary world.

Al Gatto Verde@algattoverdecasamarialuigia

Al Gatto Verde Team@reportergourmet

Speaking with Jessica, I was struck by her abundant energy, clear thinking, and strong communication skills. As she discussed fighting for her opportunities, her fearless spirit and willingness to push boundaries shone through. She favors open-flame cooking methods, imbuing her dishes with a direct, intense character that mirrors her personality and dynamism.

Jessica Rosval

During the luncheon in Udine, Jessica’s understanding of the land, traditions, and innovation was evident in every dish. She skillfully united local produce and historical context, navigating the delicate balance between classical and modern influences. The opening course, “Cedar Smoke & Geranium” salted sea bass, featured delicately cedar-smoked fish complemented by blue crab, grilled olives, Friggitelli peppers, and crab roe sauce. The slow cedar smoking imparted a nuanced, multi-layered aroma, while Adriatic blue crab, grilled olives, and peppers contributed a vibrant interplay of marine and rustic flavors.

Cedar smoke & Geranium

The following two dishes highlighted the Romagnolo rooster, an ancient local breed that has fallen out of favor as consumers turned to more tender, easily processed poultry. By reintroducing it, Jessica supports regional traditions and farmers who continue raising this heritage breed. The first preparation, “Romagnolo Piccata,” drew inspiration from classic Piccata. Here, the rooster breast was cured for two days and slow-smoked until tender. Instead of lemons and capers, Jessica substituted lemon verbena, oxalis, and other garden herbs, achieving bright citrusy notes without actual citrus. A sweet-and-sour sauce derived from roasted rooster bones and herbs brought balance. With the first bite, smoky char predomination gave way to succulent, layered flavors and a certain radiant liveliness that immediately impressed.

Romagnolo Piccata

The second rooster dish, “AU VIN,” took cues from Coq au Vin, but here the rooster thigh was braised in white wine inside a wood-burning oven, lending it a subtle smokiness. Wrapped in vine leaves and grilled, it was served with a tarragon extraction and “grape caviar” made from Trebbiano di Spagna grapes. These tiny, unpollinated grapes—often discarded in vinegar or wine production—were transformed into bright, acidic pearls, adding a refreshing lift and demonstrating Jessica’s knack for elevating overlooked ingredients.

AU VIN

For a palate cleanser, “AMARO” evoked the spirit of Italian after-dinner bitter liqueurs. Jessica crafted two sorbets: one from lime peel and another from aromatic herbs including rue. After the herbs relinquish their chlorophyll to the liquor, only crisp, white, alcohol-infused plant skeletons remain, adding an intriguing visual and textural element that complements the slightly bitter, refreshing flavors of the dish.

The final dessert, “Risotto Piedmontese,” was an innovative take on an Italian staple. Using red pepper extraction as a base, she combined smoked chocolate and Fassona bone marrow, then concealed finely chopped burnt ends of roasted beef ribs, hazelnuts, and chili beneath the chocolate. Although risotto as a dessert is virtually unheard of in Italian cuisine, this daring twist worked harmoniously. For those familiar with rice puddings, it’s not so far-fetched; for those who see rice as a savory staple, it’s a novel experience. Even Massimo Bottura jokingly remarked that Italians might want to “burn her” for such culinary defiance. Yet the balanced interplay of chocolate’s richness, savory fat, and a gentle hint of spice made the dish coherent, recalling the use of lard in certain Chinese sweets to enhance aroma and flavor.

Risotto Piedmontese

This late-autumn luncheon showcased Jessica’s respect for local ingredients and tradition, as well as her willingness to experiment with new culinary techniques. She avoided flowery language or theatrical gestures, instead focusing on nuanced flavors, seasonal authenticity, and a sense of place. The result was a gentle yet structured gustatory journey, revealing a chef’s interpretation of the subtle relationships between food, land, and culture.

Jessica Rosval and Massimo Bottura

In Jessica Rosval, I see the qualities many world-renowned chefs displayed in their formative years. I have no desire to define her by gender or call her anyone’s “female version,” yet it’s undeniable that she possesses remarkable energy, resilience, and skill honed to perfection through years of working with classic dishes. She carries more spirit and vitality than most people I’ve encountered, making conversation effortless, fluid, and genuinely enjoyable. Should she garner further accolades—perhaps even next year’s title of World’s Best Female Chef—I would not be surprised.


Jessica Rosval

Discussions often arise about gender in professional kitchens, but I believe the perspective shifts meaningfully when a woman leads. From our conversation and my observations of her team in action, it’s evident she exercises outstanding leadership and formidable capability. She is indisputably a chef who can unite and guide her brigade. Her potential and influence will continue to expand, unfettered by conventional limitations.

-END-

Author: Jocelyn 华姐

Photo: Michelin Guide、instagram@algattoverdecasamarialuigia、@reportergourmet、@jessrosval


-Read More-

✒️Ein Prosit: A Gathering of Global Culinary Titans



TastyTrip
为了美食 于是我们走遍天涯
 最新文章