四川美食地图④| 川西上的西昌味
文摘
2024-11-18 18:32
四川
说到川西美食，不得不提到坐落于凉山彝族自治州的西昌。西昌素有“小春城”之称，冬暖夏凉，物产丰富，美食种类繁多，口味鲜明。When it comes to Western Sichuan cuisine, one cannot overlook Xichang, located in Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture. Xichang is renowned for its mild climate, abundant resources, and diverse culinary offerings of distinctive flavors.![]()
西昌的米粉也叫“早粉”，顾名思义，西昌的早餐通常是一碗鲜香的米粉。众多粉店中，最常见也最有特色的是牛肉粉和羊肉粉，有些店家会将半只牛或羊挂在小店进门的位置，从上面割下新鲜的肉来盛进碗里。厨师抓起一把米粉，放入漏勺，没入汤中烫几个来回后迅速捞起，再加入高汤。全程不到两分钟，一碗香气四溢的米粉就端到了食客面前。In Xichang, rice noodles are also called “zaofen (noodles in the morning)”, and as the name suggests, breakfast of Xichang people is usually a bowl of fragrant rice noodles. The chef grabs a handful of rice noodles, puts them in a colander, blanches them in the boiling soup for a few moments, and then quickly scoops them up and adds broth. Within two minutes, a bowl of aromatic rice noodles is served with more than ten kinds of seasonings awaiting diners to add according to their own taste.![]()
凉山州下的会理市早餐爱吃鸡火丝饵块，把煮好的米线或饵块浇上由鸡肉、火腿、筒子骨等用温火慢慢熬制的汤汁，最后铺上一层鸡肉丝和火腿丝，红白相间，香味扑鼻。早起吃一碗营养爽口的鸡火丝饵块，身心都暖意融融。In Liangshan’s Huili County, a popular breakfast is “chicken and ham rice noodles or erkuai”. Prepared rice noodles or erkuai are topped with a broth slowly simmered with chicken, ham, and pork bones. Finally, shredded chicken and ham are layered on top, creating a dish that’s visually appealing with its red and white contrast and irresistibly fragrant. Starting your day with a bowl of this nutritious and refreshing meal warms both body and soul.凉山州是全国最大的彝族聚居区。彝家菜最大的特点是烹饪技巧简单，最大限度保留原始风味。彝家菜必不可少的一道菜是坨坨肉，彝语称“乌色色脚”，意思是猪肉块块。别看坨坨肉看着做法简单，掌握火候却是关键，如何做到肥肉不腻，瘦肉脆嫩，很考验手艺。Liangshan Prefecture is the largest Yi settlement area in China, where the ancient, rich and unique cultural traditions with ethnic traits flourish, especially authentic Yi cuisine. Yi cuisine is prominently featured with the simple cooking techniques and the original flavors of the dishes.苦荞在彝族人心中是“五谷之王”，凉山州的气候和海拔适宜苦荞生长，用苦荞制作而成的苦荞粑粑是当地一道极受欢迎的美食。将荞面放入盆中，掺适度水调和，做成饼状放在火塘边烤至金黄。烤熟的苦荞饼酥脆中满是软糯，咬一口，清香里夹杂着苦涩，回味时一丝甘甜从心间涌上舌尖。To the Yi people, buckwheat is revered as the “king of grains.” Liangshan Prefecture’s climate and altitude are ideal for growing buckwheat, and the buckwheat pancake is a local delicacy. Buckwheat flour is mixed with just the right amount of water, shaped into cakes, and baked golden brown by the hearth. The finished pancakes are crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. Each bite delivers a subtle aroma mixed with a slight bitterness, followed by a lingering sweetness that rises from the heart to the tongue.西昌火盆烧烤最早发源于凉山民间。彝族人家中的火塘在用于取暖、炖煮的同时，也经常烤制土豆、玉米、猪肉等食物，慢慢就发展成为一种专门的烹调方式。大约在20世纪80年代后期，这种脱胎于当地民俗的“火盆烧烤”，开始出现在西昌街头。“Xichang Fire Pit BBQ Cooking Technique” has been included in the second batch of the representative intangible cultural heritage projects of Xichang. Xichang Fire Pit BBQ originated from Liangshan folk traditions. Fire pits for Yi people are not only used for heating and stewing, but also for roasting potatoes, corns, pork and so on. Gradually, a specialized way of cooking came into being.![]()
邛海是四川省第二大淡水湖，有着天然的生态渔业资源。西昌鱼虾的做法特别多，银鱼烘蛋、南瓜鱼头汤、炸鱼排等美食让人眼花缭乱。其中，与火盆烧烤制作技艺一同被列入西昌市第二批非遗代表性项目名录的，还有“邛海醉虾制作技艺”。![]()
活蹦乱跳的小青虾，淘洗干净，浇上烈酒，覆钵一闷，无需用火，小青虾在里面一弹一跳，撞得钵体一阵脆响，等响声渐息后，揭开钵盖，小青虾已是一派醉态，此时拌以姜、椒、蒜、醋等佐料食用，正是醉虾最好吃的一口。“Qionghai Drunken Shrimp Making Technique” has also been incorporated in this list. Live little green shrimp, thoroughly cleaned, are doused with strong liquor, covered with a bowl, and allowed to marinate. The shrimp bounce inside, producing crisp sounds against the bowl until the sounds gradually fade. When the lid is lifted, and the shrimp are in a drunken state. Then they are mixed with ginger, pepper, garlic, vinegar and other condiments, the most delicious way to enjoy drunken shrimp.![]()
民以食为天。一日三餐不仅仅关乎健康体魄，更蕴含着一方水土上辛勤劳作的人们对天地、自然、万物的思考。西昌美食如此，川西美食如此，所有地域美食亦是如此，一味佐料、一道工序的变化，饱含着时节的智慧，寄托着远方的乡愁，传递着生命的真谛，在平凡不过的一日三餐中，去品味人生的酸甜苦辣。Food is the paramount necessity of the people. Three meals a day not only concern health, but also contains the contemplation of the people who labor diligently on their land towards heaven and earth, nature and everything. Xichang cuisine reflects this, as does the cuisine of western Sichuan, and indeed all regional cuisines. Each ingredient and every step of cooking carries the wisdom in consideration of the season, evokes the nostalgia of hometown, explores the essence of life, and savors the everyday flavors in three simple meals.![]()
