四川美食地图②| 川北美食——川菜的北门锁钥

文摘   2024-11-08 18:27   四川  



川北饮食在融于川菜共性的同时,也有其个性的一面。

这个地方的水质较硬,人们口味偏酸,有些菜会加醋;鱼香味落地到川北,要加芹菜粒;山里乡村粉蒸肉,须加“葫芦粉”才会被认同;名为“虾米羮”实则酸辣汤,里面根本没有虾;“坨子肉”“门槛肉”香得钻心、肥得流油……这些都显现出川北人“我的主场我做主”的自信与豪放。

如果你是一位“求新、觅趣、猎奇”的“吃货”,一定会在川北找到相应的美食,并且大快朵颐。

While Northern Sichuan cuisine shares common traits of Sichuan cuisine, it also possesses its own unique characteristics. Due to the relatively hard water here, people prefer sour flavor and often add vinegar to some dishes. Chopped celery are added to their fish-flavored dishes. In rural areas, authentic steamed pork with ricemeal must include ‘gourd powder’ (a type of ground cereal). The so-called shrimp soup is a hot and sour soup with no shrimp at all. Braised pork in Sichuan style and pork with salted vegetable are known for their intensely fragrant aroma and rich, fatty flavor. If you are a foodie seeking novelty, fun, and unique experiences, you will surely find corresponding delicacies here and enjoy them to your heart’s content.

中国最好吃的肥肠在江油

不同于四川的其他热辣美食,江油肥肠带有浓厚的地域风味。

新鲜的肥肠,辅以花椒、干辣椒、八角、蒜、姜片、桂皮、草果、山萘、香叶等天然香料烧制而成,色泽黄亮,味道香醇,柔嫩可口,肥而不腻,令人望而生津,下饭喝酒爽口开胃。

直到今天,红烧肥肠佐白米饭依旧是江油人民的“标配”早餐。

Unlike other spicy dishes from Sichuan, the pig intestines from Jiangyou carry a strong regional flavor. Fresh pig intestines are cooked with natural spices such as Sichuan peppercorns, dried chili peppers, star anise, garlic, ginger slices, cinnamon, amomum tsao-ko,  kaempferia galanga, and bay leaves. The dish has a bright yellow color, a rich and fragrant taste, tender texture, and is not greasy, making it mouthwatering and appetizing. It is perfect for pairing with rice or alcohol, stimulating the appetite and refreshing the palate. To this day, braised pig intestines with white rice remains a "standard" breakfast for the people of Jiangyou.

一口凉粉让人回味无穷

自清末问世以来,川北凉粉便以独具红辣味醇、鲜香爽口的川味风格享誉巴蜀,流传至今。

其做法是采用去壳的优质豌豆,用水浸泡后,磨成细浆,过滤去渣,沉淀脱水,制成豆粉。再经加热搅拌成糊状,装入盆、盘待用。食用时,先将凉粉切成薄片,或用凉粉旋子旋成筷子粗细的条丝,装入碗里,再加入酱油、醋汁、蒜泥、芝麻酱、油泼辣椒等调料,品尝一口就能让人回味无穷。

Since its introduction in the late Qing Dynasty, the cold starch jelly from northern Sichuan has been renowned for its distinctive spicy, rich flavor and refreshing taste. The preparation involves using high-quality peeled peas, soaking them in water, grinding them into a fine paste, filtering out the residue, and allowing it to settle and dehydrate to form bean powder. The paste is then heated and stirred to form a thick mixture, which is poured into a basin or plate for use. When served, the cold starch jelly is sliced thinly or shaped into noodle-like strands of the thickness of chopsticks, placed in a bowl, and topped with soy sauce, vinegar, garlic paste, sesame paste, and chili oil. A single bite is enough to make one long for more.

绵阳米粉,巴适得很!

绵阳米粉有着1800多年的历史。

绵阳米粉主要分为红汤、清汤、对浇三大类,米粉泡在汤中,加鸡块、竹笋、海带、酸菜等,米粉细腻的口感、丰富的配料和浓郁的汤底,常常引得八方食客大排长龙、垂涎欲滴。

Mianyang rice noodles have a history of over 1,800 years. There are three main types of Mianyang rice noodles: red soup, clear soup, and double-layered soup. The rice noodles are soaked in the broth and topped with chicken, bamboo shoots, kelp, pickled vegetables, etc. The delicate texture of the noodles, rich toppings, and savory broth often attract a long line of hungry customers, all eager to taste.

广元凉面,别开生面

广元人一天的打开方式,就是早餐一碗热凉面。随着当地人的早餐时间渐渐到来,店主会先食客几步,在大蒸屉上铺上纱布,倒入比例合适的米浆,流动性超强的米浆随着大臂的摆动均匀弥散在纱布间,盖上盖,一层层上了蒸锅。大火升起,蒸汽充斥着笼屉,短短三五分钟,热面皮就制作完成。

食客到店,一定要热切。等一张张晶莹又具有韧性的面皮垒成大约一枚直立硬币的厚度,再用长刀一条条切成面条状。

在热面条入碗之前,店主还会先放入预备好的配菜。水煮的黄豆芽是标配,焯水即可食,脆爽细嫩,和以软糯为特色的面条口感截然相反。水煮韭菜亦或是生香芹也能成为凉面的绝佳伴侣。

For the people of Guangyuan, the day begins with a bowl of hot cold noodles for breakfast. As breakfast time approaches, the shop owner will first prepare by laying cloth in a large steamer basket, pouring in an appropriate amount of rice slurry, and then, with a sweeping motion of their arms, evenly spreading the liquid across the cloth. After covering the steamer, the dish is steamed over high heat. Within three to five minutes, the hot noodle skins are ready. 

Before the noodles are placed in the bowl, the shop owner adds prepared toppings. Water-boiled soybean sprouts are a staple; they are crisp and tender, offering a refreshing contrast to the soft, sticky texture of the noodles. Water-boiled leeks or fresh cilantro can also make excellent companions to cold noodles.


每一道佳肴都是对食客味蕾的满足,也是对川北饮食文化精髓的生动诠释。这些美食,不仅是川北人民日常餐桌上的佳肴,更是这片土地文化、历史与情感的载体。

Every dish is a treat for the taste buds, as well as a vivid interpretation of the essence of northern Sichuan cuisine. These foods are not only the daily delicacies on the dining tables of the people in northern Sichuan, but also a reflection of the culture, history, and emotions of the land.


来源:《看四川》第99期


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记者:宗禾

编辑:戈丹

校对:向雯、李卉嫔

审核:李黎


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