四川美食地图③| 川南:有盐更有味

文摘   2024-11-13 17:35   四川  



2018年12月,中国饭店协会将自贡正式加冕为“中国盐帮菜之乡”。

盐帮菜又称“小河帮”,以自贡为核心,其触角延伸至周边的宜宾、泸州与内江等地,形成了一个地域广阔、风味独特的菜系集群。它不仅是川菜家族中的瑰宝,更是唯一以地级市特色命名的川菜子系。盐帮菜的精髓在于对麻辣鲜香的深刻诠释,以及那些独树一帜的烹饪技法与口味类型,汇聚成200多种经典佳肴、逾千道精致菜肴及上百款特色小吃,让每一位品尝者都能体验到一场舌尖上的盛宴。

Zigong cuisine, also known as “Small River Cuisine,” centers around Zigong and extends to the nearby areas of Yibin, Luzhou, and Neijiang, forming a broad and distinct culinary cluster. The essence of Zigong cuisine lies in its profound interpretation of spicy, numbing, fresh, and fragrant flavors, along with unique cooking techniques and flavor profiles. It includes over 200 classic dishes, more than 1,000 exquisite recipes, and hundreds of specialty snacks. Some of the hallmark dishes such as Poached Beef Slices in Hot Chili Oil, Fire-edge Beef, Cold Rabbit Meat with Pepper, and Fushun Tofu Jelly have been listed as “Tianfu Famous Dishes of Sichuan Province.”

这里的牛肉就是牛

说到盐帮菜,牛肉佳肴无疑是其中浓墨重彩的一笔,水煮牛肉、火边子牛肉、菊花牛肉、粉蒸牛肉、钻子卤牛肉、掌盘牛肉……展现了盐帮菜中“牛”元素的丰富多样。

水煮牛肉作为川菜馆不可或缺的招牌菜,其制作看似简单,实则蕴含匠心。将切片牛肉置入加盐沸水中煮制,待肉片泛白即刻捞出,淋上红油,撒上辣椒面、花椒面、胡椒面、酱油、姜末、水豆粉,再搭配新鲜的菜薹、莴苣、芹菜作为点缀,既适合下饭,又营养均衡。

火边子牛肉,也是一道源自盐工智慧的杰作。其以质地细腻、片薄如纸、口感酥香、回味无穷著称。这道菜选材讲究,仅选用牛后腿上最精华的“钻子肉”,经由厨师精湛刀工切片,再以特制调料腌渍,自然风干。

Boiled Beef, an indispensable signature dish in Sichuan cuisine restaurants. Thinly sliced beef is placed in boiling, salted water, and removed as soon as it turns pale. It is then topped with red chili oil, sprinkled with chili powder, Sichuan pepper powder, black pepper powder, soy sauce, minced ginger, and water starch. Fresh greens like cabbage, lettuce, and celery are added as garnishes, making it both flavorful with rice and nutritionally balanced. Huobianzi Beef is another masterpiece originating from the ingenuity of salt workers. Known for its delicate texture, paper-thin slices, crispy flavor, and lingering taste, this dish is crafted with care, using only the finest "drill meat" from the beef’s hind leg. It is sliced with expert knife skills, marinated in a special blend of spices, and air-dried naturally.

好吃不过冷吃兔

冷吃兔的诱人之处在于色泽鲜明悦目,肉质紧致富有弹性,口感醇厚,麻辣中带着丝丝甘甜的回味。它之所以被冠以“冷吃”之名,是因为其别具一格的制作工艺,使得这道菜即便在常温下也能保持风味,无须再次加热,且保存期限较长。

在烹饪技艺上,盐帮菜擅长小煎小炒、干煸干烧。调味料方面,除了自贡独有的井盐之外,还精于运用姜、椒提味。

The allure of Cold-Eaten Rabbit lies in its vibrant color, firm and bouncy texture, and rich, spicy flavor with a hint of sweetness. Named "cold-eaten" due to its unique preparation process, this dish maintains its flavor at room temperature, requiring no reheating and having a longer shelf life. Its cook is specialized in stir-fries and dry-sautéing. The well salt, ginger and pepper are used for flavor enhancement.

点“豆”成金的富顺豆花

富顺是自贡市下属的一个县,其豆花嫩滑、绵软、洁白,搭配“辣、麻、香、鲜、甜”五味俱全的蘸水,成为一道令人难以忘怀的美味。

在富顺,享用豆花的仪式感在于一勺细腻绵软的豆花,一碟麻辣鲜香的蘸水,再加上一勺清冽回甘的窖水,辅以一碗香糯松散的米饭,共同构成了一场味蕾上的盛宴。富顺豆花的制作工艺已被列为四川省首批非物质文化遗产项目。

Fushun, a county under Zigong City, is known for its tofu pudding's tender, smooth, and pristine white texture. Paired with a dipping sauce that combines spicy, numbing, fragrant, fresh, and sweet flavors, it becomes an unforgettable delicacy. The craftsmanship of Fushun Tofu Pudding has been designated as one of Sichuan Province's first intangible cultural heritage projects.

随着盐帮菜品牌影响力的不断提升,自贡的盐帮餐饮企业也加快了拓展的步伐,不仅在国内遍地开花,更将触角延伸至全球各地。据统计,已有6000余家盐帮菜馆扎根中华大地,覆盖全国各大城市;而在海外市场,500余家盐帮菜馆也相继开业,让世界各地的食客得以一品盐帮菜的绝妙滋味。

According to statistics, there are more than 6,000 Zigong cuisine restaurants throughout China, covering major cities nationwide. Additionally, more than 500 overseas branches have opened, allowing food enthusiasts all over the world to enjoy the exquisite flavors of Zigong cuisine.



来源:《看四川》第99期


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记者:李宁

编辑:戈丹

校对:向雯、汤晨

审核:李黎


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