Let's face it, sometimes marrying a sports fanatic can be a recipe for boredom. Endless nights spent watching grown adults chase a ball around a field? Sign me up for a spa, please! But hear me out, fellow Shanghai expats – this past year, my husband, the ultimate sports nut, has managed to convert this amateur casual viewer into a bona fide Chinese Super League (CSL) fangirl!
Now, before you clutch your pearls in disbelief, let me assure you, it wasn't brainwashing (although some might argue otherwise). It was the electric atmosphere, the passionate chants echoing through the stadium, and the sheer athleticism on display that hooked me. Plus, let's be honest, those Shanghai sunsets over the pitch are pretty darn spectacular!
So, if you're curious about experiencing the electrifying world of Chinese football, then this guide is for you! Buckle up, because we're diving headfirst into the beautiful game, Shanghai style!
Photo: ESPN
Welcome to the CSL!
Your crash course in China’s top-tier football league
Photo: Khushboo Khanna
The Chinese Super League, or 中超 (Zhōng Chāo), as the locals call it, is the top tier of professional football in China. Think of it as the Premier League of China, but with way more snacks and less tea and crumpets (although a good cuppa wouldn't go amiss during a nail-biting match!). The season typically runs from February/March to November/December. This means you have the perfect opportunity to catch some exciting matches before the season ends.
League Basics
The CSL is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Sixteen teams compete for the championship trophy, each team plays each of the other teams twice, once for a home game, once for an away game. So each team plays 30 matches per season, with 8 games per round and 240 games throughout the season. Phew!
Table as of July 22. Photo: Transfermrkt website.
Pro tip:
A match ticket for a special occasion or a season pass will keep you hyped year-round! They’re actually quite affordable (a few hundred depending on individual clubs)
The top two teams from League One are promoted to CSL while the two lowest-placed teams at the end of the CSL season are demoted to the China League One.
The winners of the Chinese FA Cup and the top three teams in the CSL advance to next year's Asian Football Confederation Champions League.
The most revered club in league history is the Guangzhou Evergrande, having won all but one season from 2011-2019, conceding that lone win to Shanghai SIPG now called Shanghai Port FC who also happen to be the defending champions of 2023.
Your Shanghai Team Choices: Shenhua or Port?
Okay, now for the real dilemma – which Shanghai team to support? Here's a breakdown to help you decide:
Shanghai boasts not one, but two CSL teams – Shanghai Shenhua FC (上海申花) and Shanghai Port FC (上海海港). Both have their own passionate fan bases, iconic stadiums, and of course, their fair share of talented players. Here's a lowdown on each:
Shanghai Shenhua FC
Photo: Khushboo Khanna
Home turf:
Shanghai Stadium, Xuhui District (Shanghai Indoor Stadium on Metro Line 1) – With a capacity of 72,000, although they insist on only filling 1/3rd of the seats per match for security reasons. This state-of-the-art football stadium also hosted the 2008 Summer Olympics Football Preliminaries. It’s HUGE, so account for at least 20 minutes to reach your seat and you may need to climb up to five flights of stairs. Queues and security checks take time too.
Fan chants:
Brace yourself for the earworm-worthy "Wo Ai Shenhua" (我爱申花; I love Shenhua!), “Shēnhuà shēnhuā shì guànjūn” (深化申花是冠军; Shenhua is the champion!, “OLE shēnhuā OLE shēnhuā lán sè de xuè zài” (OLE申花 OLE申花 蓝色的血在流淌; Ole Shenhua Ole Shenhua our hearts bleed blue) guaranteed to get you chanting along in no time.
Top performers:
Keep an eye out for Cephus Malele, the Swiss striker who has scored 12 goals this season, Brazilian striker André Luis is tailing him with 10 goals while midfielder Xie Pengfei has maximum assists.
Fun fact:
An easy way to tell if it's the home team's (Shanghai Shenhua FC) match day is to see the color of the LED lights while passing by the Shanghai Stadium. If it’s bright blue, expect roaring crowds that evening; it’s game night.
Shanghai Shenhua FC match schedule via Jiushi
Shanghai Port FC
Photo: Khushboo Khanna
Home turf:
Shanghai Pudong Football Stadium (上海浦东体育场) – This modern marvel boasts a retractable roof and a 37,000 capacity. Relatively smaller, better views guaranteed, and better accessibility to get to your seat in time, however, each gate is far away from the other, so accounting for 20 minutes is wise.
Club Nicknames:
The Red Eagles (红鹰), previously known as Shanghai SIPG
Fan chants:
The "Hai Gang! Hai Gang!" (海港! 海港!; Shanghai Port! Shanghai Port!) chant is a force to be reckoned with. Prepare to be swept away by the collective roar!
Top performers:
Oscar, the Brazilian playmaker with a silky touch, formerly a Chelsea FC player and captain of the club, and Wu Lei, the Chinese superstar with 22 goals known for his lightning-fast dribbling skills, are absolute must-watches.
Match Day Must-Knows:
Ticketing, Food, and Fan Culture
Alright, folks, let's get down to the nitty-gritty. Attending a CSL match is easier than you think! Tickets are surprisingly affordable, starting at a wallet-friendly RMB 80 (around $12 USD) – but here's the catch: they sell out fast! The ticketing system is all done through WeChat Mini Programs (gotta love China's digital savvy!), [久事体育 for Shanghai Shenhua FC; 大麦 mini program for Shanghai Port FC] So get ready, it’s fastest fingers first.
Just a heads up – there's a quick ID verification process, and you'll need to bring your ID to the match itself. Food inside stadiums in Shanghai is limited to say it politely. Don’t go empty stomach, your options are hot dogs, chips and perhaps a bread roll or popcorn. Drinks are surprisingly non alcoholic, tea, coffee and aerated beverages. You may get away with carrying a small snack or sandwich, depending on the security check.
Pro tip:
Tickets typically go on sale 10 days prior to match day. The next Shanghai Derby [Shanghai Shenhua v/s Shanghai Port FC], both in the top 2, fighting for the title is on Aug 17, at the Shanghai Stadium, so mark your calendars!
Shanghai Shenhua FC match schedule via DaMai
Speaking of pre-game rituals, 神之花 Club [743 Lingling Lu], a sports cafe specifically designed as a CSL fan haven, just opened its doors to fans! Expect match screenings on large screens, flowing beers, and yummy snacks to fuel your cheering.
And let's not forget the iconic stadium hawkers. These enterprising folks sell everything from team jerseys and scarves to inflatable noisemakers – perfect for adding to the vibrant atmosphere. Plus, they make awesome souvenirs to remember your first CSL experience! Remember you can haggle, so start your bid at RMB 15 and settle for a 20 for a scarf, 10 for a whistle, and 50 for a match day t-shirt or jersey.
From Sofa to Stadium:
My Journey as a "Sports Girlie"
I’ve watched the CSL, Formula 1, played badminton, nintendo, covered 11 snorkeling sites, watched hockey, track and field events, skateboarding, basketball and so much more!
Look, I'll admit it. Before marrying my sports-obsessed husband, the closest I ever came to football in my adult years was kicking a crumpled piece of paper around the office during a particularly dull meeting. But attending a CSL match has completely changed my perspective! The electrifying atmosphere, the passionate camaraderie of the fans, and the sheer athleticism on display – it's surprisingly addictive! Now, I find myself glued to the edge of my seat, cheering alongside my fellow "tifosi" (superfans) and sporting my new merch with pride. Who knew watching sports could be this fun? I’m hooked!
Crowd cheers at Shanghai Stadium
Beyond Shanghai:
Exploring the Wider CSL World
The beauty of the CSL is that it's spread across China, with teams in various cities like Guangzhou, Beijing, and Wuhan. Each location offers its own unique fan culture and stadium atmosphere. So, if you're feeling adventurous, consider a weekend trip to catch a game in a different location – you might just discover a new favorite team and experience a whole new side of China!
The Final Whistle:
Join the Excitement!
The CSL is more than just football; it's a vibrant community of passionate supporters, electrifying matches, and a chance to experience the energy of modern China. So, ditch the pedicures for an afternoon, grab your friends, and head down to a stadium. You might just surprise yourself and become the next CSL fangirl (or fanboy) – Shanghai or beyond!
2024 Green Shanghai Art&Writing Competition
The Top Chinese Athletes Going for Olympic Gold
