Grenache – Reborn Through Fire and Glory

Grenache is one of the earliest grape varieties planted in South Australia. Despite being at time overlooked, these century-old Grenache vines are now leading a new wave in South Australian wines with their unique advantage.

Grenache is a grape variety that witnesses the history of South Australian wine. In the 1830s, when James Busby brought Grenache to South Australia, it began to become the most important grape variety in the state. McLaren Vale is recorded as the site of the first Grenache vineyard in Australia. From the 1920s to the 1960s, Grenache was once the dominant grape variety in South Australia, accounting for nearly 80% of production and being hailed as the "variety that surpasses all." As the trend for fortified wines waned, so did Grenache. In the 1980s, the South Australian government initiated a program to uproot Grenache vines. Fortunately, some winemakers and vineyards in South Australia, despite receiving government subsidies to uproot the vines, chose to keep their old Grenache vines. These 60 to 150-year-old Grenache vines are now the most treasured varieties in South Australia.

Grenache is truly a versatile red grape. The range of Grenache wines can span from rosé to fullert-bodied red wines, and it can even be used to produce fortified wines. When old-vine Grenache is grown in rich soils, it can produce intensely fruity, fuller-bodied red wines. This is a variety that winemakers can play with extensively. It can be aged in new oak barrels or be made with no oak influence, using gentle extraction, whole bunch press or whole berry fermentation to achieve more vibrant, lighter wines. Additionally, Grenache can be used in various blends such as the iconic GSM blends.

South Australia is a blessed land. Phylloxera, the pest that ravaged European vineyards in the 1890s, spared South Australia, making it one of the few "phylloxera-free zones." South Australia, which boasts the world's oldest vines, also retained substantial vineyards of old-vine Grenache. For Grenache, the low yield from old vines is an important factor in ensuring grape quality. Old-vine Grenache offers more intense fruit flavors, better acidity, and superior tannin structure. Old vines transform Grenache from being generic and watery to one that, even when light-bodied, retains lasting fruitiness and elegance.

Pinot Noir is considered the most terrior expressive red varietal. It is delicate and fragile, requiring great care. Grenache on the other hand, is seen as the "Pinot Noir of warmer regions." It can accurately express the characteristics brought by different soils, climates, viticulture, and winemaking methods. Likewise, Grenache needs careful attention. Master Sommelier Pierre-Marie Pattieu commented on Grenache, "You need to care for it and avoid letting it over-ripen, so it can showcase more complete flavors. Overripe Grenache becomes dull, losing its sense of place." Even in warm, even hot and dry climates, Grenache can exhibit good acidity and precise fruit flavors. 

Grenache can show different characteristics in various soil structures. Limestone soils can give Grenache more ethereal red fruit flavors, powdery tannins with a light body; while red clay soils can endow it with fuller fruit flavors. Of course, some silica rich sandy soils in McLaren Vale provides old-vine Grenache depth, precise acidity, complex fruit flavors, and tightly-knit tannins. That represents the pinnacle of Grenache. Grenache is transparent, clearly expressing its terroir and the winemaker's interpretation. This is why Grenache has become the hottest topic in the global wine industry recently.

Barossa and McLaren Vale are the most important regions for Grenache in South Australia, representing the quintessential Grenache of the state. Charles Melton's ‘Nine Popes’ is a classic example of old-school Grenache blends from Barossa Valley for its blockbuster style. Meanwhile, new wave l producers like First Drop and Alkina use lighter oak treatment barrels, minimal intervention, and even a high proportion of whole-bunch fermentation to achieve a more vibrant style. 

McLaren Vale is considered the king of Grenache in South Australia, recognized globally for its excellence. The influence of the Mount Lofty Ranges and the ocean, combined with a high proportion of gravelly soils, gives McLaren Vale Grenache greater  acidity, denser tannin structure, and longer-lasting fruit flavors. Notable examples from McLaren Vale include Yangarra, Thistledown, d’Arenberg, Ministry of Clouds, and Dandelion Vineyards.

Grenache accounts for only 1% of South Australia's total wine production. However, it is indeed a trendsetter, leading a new wave in style and winemaking. This "Pinot Noir of warmer regions" is driving the rise of lighter-bodied wines, catering to the burgeoning culture of fresh food culture.