英国一直是心心念念想要去的国家,之前好几次办了签证,都因为各种阴差阳错没有成行,所以当飞机缓缓降落在伦敦希斯罗机场的时候,心里竟然还有几分激动。
The United Kingdom has been a country that I have always wanted to visit. I applied for a visa several times before, but failed to make the trip due to various circumstances. Therefore, when the plane slowly landed at Heathrow Airport in London, I felt all my studies on history had come to this moment.
没有特别的做攻略,也不想走马观花的游历,所以虽然是第一次到英国,也只安排了伦敦一个城市。这是势必要来很多次的国家,因此每一个所到之处都希望留下深刻的印象,也希望在每天的游历当中自己谙熟的英国历史能够与现实对应起来。
I didn't have a special guideline, so I opposed a quick tour. Although it was my first visit to the UK, I only arranged to visit one city London. England is a country that I am bound to visit many times, so I set out to understand London thoroughly, and hope that the history of Britain that I have familiarized with and hoped to visit so many times can be matched with reality this time.
所以,严格意义上,这不能算一篇游记。如果想从中得到伦敦游历的详细攻略,哪里好玩好吃好看,哪里性价比最高,哪里人气最旺,可能你会失望。我并不是一个传统意义的游客,娱乐、购物甚至是网红景点都不是我热衷的关注点。我也不喜欢特别的计划行程,提前去了解任何前人验证过并且评价极高的所在。我只关心从阅读中了解到的这座城市与现实的叠图,并且坚信“读万卷书行万里路”,旅行的最大乐趣在于不期而遇,而不是计划。
Technically, it's not a travelogue. If you desire to receive a detailed guide to London, worthwhile restaurants, the most cost-effective attraction places, the highest rated hangouts, or anything of that sort, you will be disappointed. If you're one of those people I offer apologies for wasting your time on the first two paragraphs. I’m not a tourist, and entertainment, shopping and even celebrity attractions matter little to me.
One thing you should also know about me is that I dislike the idea of a meticulously planned trip, such as getting to know anything that has been rated highly in advance. My purpose in traveling to culturing enriched places is comparing the picture of the place depicted in the books I have read and the reality in front of my eyes. My belief, "reading ten thousand books and traveling ten thousand miles”. The greatest pleasure of travel lies in unexpected encounters rather than plans.
但是为了方便理解,我还是不得不将这十天略作分类,不是按照时间,而是按照我非常个人化的喜好。
But for the sake of understanding, I have to categorize these ten days slightly, not by time, but by my very personal preference.
第一部分,历史。
Section One,History。
这里先讲一个有意思的概念:不列颠和大不列颠在地理上哪个是更大的范围?答案是不列颠。
Before we start, we need to understand history.
Here is an interesting concept to begin with: which is the larger geographical area of Britain or Great Britain? The answer is Britain.
不列颠是欧洲西北部的岛屿群,包括了大不列颠和爱尔兰两个主要的岛屿以及许多小岛,在北海与大西洋之间,东南则以英吉利海峡、多弗尔海峡与欧洲大陆相望。而大不列颠则是指英格兰、苏格兰和威尔士组成的英伦三岛。不列颠群岛现在有两个国家,英国和爱尔兰,这两个国家历史上也是相爱相杀,这个以后再讲。
Britain is an island group in northwest Europe, including the two main islands of Great Britain and Ireland and many small islands, between the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, southeast of the English Channel, the Strait of Dover and the continent of Europe. Great Britain, on the other hand, refers to the British Isles of England, Scotland and Wales. There are now two countries in the British Isles, England and Ireland, two countries that historically loved and killed each other, but more about that later.
不列颠群岛的人类居住史可以追溯到公元前13世纪,对应中国应该是在商王朝的中期。当时的移民是伊比利亚人,也就是来自今天的西班牙和葡萄牙所在的伊比利亚半岛。
The history of human settlement in the British Isles dates back to the 13th century BC, which corresponds to the middle of the Shang Dynasty in China. The settlers were Iberians, from the Iberian Peninsula, where Spain and Portugal are today.
700年以后,欧洲西部的凯尔特人开始移民,其中一个部落称为不列吞人,所以不列颠群岛的名称可能来源于此。今天苏格兰有一个足球俱乐部,美国有一支 NBA球都叫做凯尔特人队。凯尔特人的历史实在可以看作是英国人和美国人最早的可以追溯的历史。
About 700 years later, Celts from Western Europe began to emigrate. One of these tribes was called the Bretons, so the name of the British Isles may have come from this. Today there is a football club in Scotland and an NBA team in the United States called the Celtics. The history of the Celtic people can be regarded as the earliest traceable history of the English and the Americans.
从公元前55年开始,罗马屡次入侵了不列颠,直到公元43年,历时100年才完全征服。秉承了罗马一贯的发展模式,罗马人选择了泰晤士河口的伦敦为中心,向四面八方修筑大道,连接各地的城市。伦敦在不列颠群岛的统治中心地位就是在这个时候奠定的。
Starting in 55 BC, the Romans invaded Britain several times, and it took 100 years until 43 AD to completely conquer Britain. Following the Roman pattern of development, the Romans chose London at the mouth of the Thames as their center, building roads in all directions to connect the cities. It was at this time that London's position as the dominant centre of the British Isles was established.
随着西罗马帝国的不断衰落,罗马人在公元407年退出了不列颠。罗马人撤离后,留下了权力的真空。公元五世纪,居住在德意志易北河口和丹麦南部的盎格鲁撒克逊人,以及莱茵河下游的朱特人等日耳曼部落开始了成规模的移民入侵。盎格鲁撒克逊人是日耳曼人的一支,不知道这是不是视日耳曼为优等民族的希特勒对属于高卢人的法国摧枯拉朽,但是对于英国却始终手下留情的原因。
As the Western Empire continued to decline, the Romans withdrew from Britain in 407 AD. When the Romans left, they left a power vacuum. In the fifth century, the Anglo-Saxons, living in the mouth of the Elbe River in Germany and southern Denmark, and Germanic tribes such as the Jutes of the lower Rhine began a large-scale immigration invasion. The Anglo-Saxons were a branch of the Germanic people. It is not clear that this is why Hitler, who regarded the Germanic people as his master race, destroyed France, which belonged to the Gauls, but showed no mercy to Britain.
到公元 7 世纪,不列颠历经了200年时间,建立了七个强国。这一段历史被马丁老爷子作为背景写进了自己的小说,继而成为了在全球大热的美剧《权力的游戏》的剧本。
By the 7th century, Britain had built seven great powers over a period of 200 years. The episode was used as the setting for Martin's novel, which later became the script for the global hit TV series Game of Thrones.
随后的历史大家从中学课本里都知道了。公元1062年,法国的诺曼底公爵威廉渡过了英吉利海峡,建立了诺曼王朝,从此英国进入了王朝时期,历经了金雀花、都铎、斯图亚特、汉诺威、温莎五个王朝,直到今天。因为严格的继承法和英国人严格执行继承法,从诺曼王朝的威廉一世到现在温莎王朝的查尔斯三世,英国的国王全部具有血缘关系。对于“王侯将相宁有种乎”这个问题,英国人的答案显然不同于中国人。再插一句,诺曼王朝的建立者是挪威的维京人。创造人类现代文明的精英血缘上居然来自最古老野蛮的海盗,这也是历史最大的幽默吧。
The rest of the history you know from your middle school textbooks. In 1062 AD, William, Duke of Normandy of France, crossed the English Channel and established the Norman Dynasty, from which England entered the dynastic period, through the Plantagenet, Tudor, Stuart, Hanoverian, Windsor dynasties, until now. As a result of the strict laws of succession and the unyielding enforcement of these by the English, the Kings of England; from William I of the Norman Dynasty to Charles III of the present House of Windsor, have all been passed down by blood. The answer of the British people to the question of "whether a king is at peace or not" is obviously different from that of the Chinese people. By the way, the Normans were founded by the Vikings of Norway. The elite blood ties that created modern human civilization actually came from the oldest savage pirates, which is one of the biggest jokes in history.
从英格兰王国到统治英伦三岛及殖民全球的大英帝国,再到今天已经日薄西山的联合王国,期间伦敦一直是英国王室统治英伦的中心。他的声誉也在二战时期达到了顶峰,成为了拯救人类命运最重要的要塞之一。
From the Kingdom of England, to the British Empire that ruled the British Isles and colonized the world, to the waning days of the United Kingdom, London has been the center of British royal rule. His reputation also reached its peak during World War II as one of the most important strongholds to save the fate of millions.
这是游历伦敦之前至少需要了解的英国和伦敦的历史,对于这个城市应该就有了一些感性的认知,它不是一座没有历史的城市,不仅仅只有金融和时尚,历史在这座城市留下的随处可见的痕迹,才是它最迷人的所在。
This least you need to know about the history of Britain and London before actually visiting London. After this brief explanation, you should have built some perceptual cognition of this city. It is not a city without history. It is not only finance and fashion. Instead, intertwined branches of history are buried everywhere in this city, and that is the most fascinating.
特别鸣谢:本文英文翻译由女儿完成