BY Paul Finkbeiner
“Dima has sought to combine flavors and textures of food from local markets and create dishes that have that ineffable umami flavor.”
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On the second floor of Huangdao’s Jinshi International Hotel sits the Wine Restaurant by Beleacov, or as it’s known in Chinese, the “Black Girl.” With six tables inside and four outdoors, it is a private, quiet place of serenity amidst the bustle of city life outside. Its Moldovan owner, Dima, has more than 25 years of experience in the restaurant business, and his passion for exquisite and delicious cuisine is evident in his dishes.
After entering his restaurant, I sat down with Dima where we began our lunch course with a salmon and avocado tar tar. The tar tar was a multi-layered delight that began with a pumpkin base, followed by a middle layer of chopped avocado, and then a top layer of salmon. A white sauce was drizzled around the pumpkin base and covered with beans, walnuts, and cranberries. Next, we moved to the seafood courses where we ate shrimp slathered with lemon and hollandaise sauce and consumed sea bass stuffed with tar tar.
As we ate together, Dima told me that each piece of food for each of his dishes has a purpose. There are no incidental choices at his restaurant. He seeks to create dishes with an umami flavor, which defy the standard flavors while presenting a texture and taste that is both satisfying and delectable.
Our next dish, the beef steak with onion marmalade, met those umami credentials. The savory steak, slightly sour marmalade, and sweet mashed pumpkin combined to create a satisfying texture and flavor that could not be forgotten. Next, we moved on to a dish of multi-layered duck breast wrapped in slices of bacon. Then, we finished our main course with some Moldovan sausage, which was hand-made by the chefs themselves.
After finishing the main course, Dima recommended some Moldovan white wine from his wine shelf. Its light, aromatic flavor refreshed our palates after a sumptuous lunch. He said that his full-time staff consists of just himself and two Chinese chefs. He often gives them freedom to experiment with new dishes, and if he likes what they create, he will put it on the menu shortly after.
One of the dishes for dessert had been created by one of the chefs themselves. It was a white and black chocolate mousse which was whipped together and served in a glass cup. Needless to say, it deserved its place on the dessert menu. Along with the mousse, we ate a milk and caramel pudding that balanced sweet and bitter into one satisfying flavor package.
Since he started his restaurant one year ago in Huangdao, Dima has gradually built a base of regular clientele who appreciate his attention to detail and passion for food. Several companies have also booked his restaurant to host private dinner parties. In the fall and spring, the outdoor seating is especially pleasant for those who visit his restaurant.
As a professional restaurateur, he has not been content to just imitate others around him. Instead, he has sought to combine flavors and textures of food from local markets and create dishes that have that ineffable umami flavor. With one year behind it and many more to come, it seems that “Black Girl” will soon become a permanent fixture on the restaurant scene in Huangdao, which should be a delight to foodies everywhere.
Beleacov 黑姑娘西餐厅
Hours: 11:30-2pm, 5-9pm; Tuesday – Sunday
*Guests can arrive by 8:30pm and stay for a few hours longer if they wish.
Telephone: 157 6422-7073
Prices: most menu items range from 38RMB – 88RMB; imported beef dishes are 168RMB
Wine: guests may choose wine from a wine shelf at the restaurant
Address: 2F, Jinshi Hotel, 157 Jinggangshan Road, Huangdao District. 黄岛区景冈山路157号青岛金石国际大酒店二层
