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思维导图作者:
琚儿,女,QE在职,梦想能仗翻译/音乐/健康走天涯
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文化 | 杯中看世界
马提尼如何成为世界上最具代表性的鸡尾酒
它有着迷人的历史,且可以无限地个性化
AT DUKES BAR in London there is a limit of two martinis per person. Enrico Chiappini, the head bartender, says that in his 16 years he has made almost no exceptions. That is because the bar’s martinis, made with chilled gin or vodka and vermouth, are famously dangerous: each contains 120ml of booze. Two hold ten shots.
在伦敦的杜克斯酒吧(DUKES BAR),每人限饮两杯马提尼。首席调酒师Enrico Chiappini说,他从业16年,几乎从未有过例外。因为这家酒吧的马提尼是用冰镇金酒或伏特加搭配苦艾酒调制而成,烈性极强,众所周知:每杯含120毫升酒精。两杯可以装满十个shot杯。
注:shot(份)是一种标准的酒精计量单位,通常一份约为30ml。因此,如果两杯马丁尼的酒精总量为240ml(每杯120ml),大约可以相当于10个shots(240ml÷30ml = 8 shots)。
As James Thurber, an American humorist, warned, two martinis may be too many—but three are not enough. That thrill has attracted drinkers for more than a century. Ian Fleming, a British novelist and frequent patron of Dukes, invented the Vesper martini for James Bond, who ordered his “shaken not stirred”. Ernest Hemingway, also a committed drinker, extolled the macho tipple in his novels, including “A Farewell to Arms”.
正如美国幽默作家詹姆斯·瑟伯(James Thurber)所警告的那样,两杯马提尼可能太多了,但三杯是不够的。一个多世纪以来,这种刺激一直吸引着饮酒者。英国小说家伊恩·弗莱明(Ian Fleming)是杜克斯酒吧的常客,他为詹姆斯·邦德(James Bond)调制了维斯珀(Vesper)马提尼,邦德希望他的酒是“摇晃而非搅拌调制的”。欧内斯特·海明威(Ernest Hemingway)也是一个不折不扣的酒鬼,他在《永别了,武器》(a Farewell to Arms)等小说中称赞这种充满男子气概的烈酒。
A “boozy cultural prism” is what Alice Lascelles, who writes a column in the Financial Times, calls the drink in a new book, “The Martini”. It is resilient and adaptable. As distilling improved in the 20th century, drinkers started to request dry cocktails. In the 1980s tastes swung the other way, with fruity froths and coffee liqueur filling the Y-shaped glasses.
《金融时报》专栏作家爱丽丝·拉塞勒斯(Alice Lascelles)在她的新书《马提尼》(The Martini)中称马提尼为“酒文化棱镜”。它经久不衰,随时而变。随着20世纪蒸馏技术的进步,饮酒者开始热衷干鸡尾酒。到了20世纪80年代,人们的口味发生了极大的变化,倒进Y形酒杯的变成了果味泡沫和咖啡利口酒。
Yet the martini’s basic recipe has always been simple. It requires no specialised equipment. That makes it “a kind of perfection that’s well within one’s grasp”, writes Ms Lascelles. During Prohibition in the 1920s in America, martini-making moved from bars to homes. A century later, covid lockdowns once again enticed many to experiment with mixology at home.
然而马提尼的基本制作方法一直都很简单。它不需要专门的设备。这种特点让它成为“一种唾手可得的完美酒品”,拉塞勒斯女士写道。在20世纪20年代美国禁酒令期间,马提尼的制作地从酒吧转移到了家里。一个世纪后新冠疫情封控也诱使许多人在家中尝试调酒。
A basic formula can be endlessly personalised. That taps into the trend across lifestyle industries, from fragrances to fashion, of tweaking a product to express something about yourself. You may have a rotating repertoire of spirits. (In your correspondent’s case, it is a potato vodka from Poland.) Or it may be the garnish: citrus rind or olives? Franklin D. Roosevelt would add both, along with a splash of the olive brine. Hemingway had a fetish for adding onions: both frozen and raw.
基本配方可以无限融入个性化元素。这借鉴了从香水到时装等时尚产业的趋势,即通过调整产品来表达自我。你可以选择各种烈酒轮换着来。(笔者会选择来自波兰的马铃薯伏特加。)或者也可以选择不同的装饰:柑橘皮或橄榄?富兰克林·罗斯福(Franklin D. Roosevelt)会同时加这两种配料,再撒一点橄榄盐水。海明威则喜欢加洋葱,冷冻的和生的都有。
A study by Claire Warner and Tristan Stephenson, two mixologists, identifies at least 21 variables yielding 6.9 quadrillion possible martini combinations. Meanwhile, bartenders use the drink to show off their skills. Tayēr + Elementary in London, one of the world’s best bars, riffs on its form by serving a green olive stuffed with blue cheese in a bite-sized vodka martini.
一项由调酒师克莱尔·华纳(Claire Warner)和特里斯坦·斯蒂芬森(Tristan Stephenson)进行的研究表明,至少有21种变量就可以创造出多达6.9万亿种马提尼组合。同时,调酒师们也通过调马提尼来展现自己的技艺。伦敦的Tayēr + Elementary酒吧是世界上最厉害的酒吧之一:在一口杯伏特加马提尼中放入青橄榄,里面塞满了蓝纹奶酪,将马提尼的花样展现的淋漓尽致。
As people drink less, they want to drink better. That is especially true among young drinkers; last year a survey of millennials in America and Britain showed that 30% opted for homemade cocktails to start the night—almost double the share five years ago. They might even drop £25 ($33) on a martini at Dukes, which is made tableside to their specifications and poured theatrically into an ice-cold glass. It is a ritual rich with history—and potential for sharing on Instagram. #Cheers.
随着饮酒量的减少,人们对品质的要求越来越高。这种趋势在年轻人中尤为明显。去年,一项针对美国和英国千禧一代的调查显示,30%的年轻人选择在家自制鸡尾酒来开启夜晚——这一比例几乎是五年前的两倍。他们甚至可能花费25英镑(33美元)去杜克斯酒吧喝马提尼,酒保会在桌边根据顾客需求即时调制,并以戏剧性的方式倒入冰冷的酒杯中。这是一种充满历史感的仪式,也具备在Instagram上分享的潜力。#干杯。
Albert,男,热爱笔译的摸鱼人。希望一直有求知和宽阔的心
Mosy,绘本、演讲、戏剧英文教育践行者
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