腌黄瓜热潮:揭秘为何全球食客为之疯狂 | 经济学人文化

财富   2024-10-25 07:48   云南  

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写在前面


思维导图作者:

琚儿,女,QE在职,梦想能仗翻译/音乐/健康走天涯


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Culture | World in a dish

文化 | 盘中知世界

英文部分选自经济学人20241019期文化板块

Culture | World in a dish

文化 | 盘中知世界

Food lovers the world over are tickled by pickles

世界各地的美食爱好者都对腌黄瓜爱不释口

On social media, preserved cucumbers are freshly trendy

腌黄瓜成为社交媒体新宠

IN DAYS GONE by, the pickled cucumber—or gherkin, in British parlance—had a humble role in food. It showed up ornamentally or in tiny, grease-cutting portions on burgers and charcuterie boards. So limited were its uses that jars would languish at the back of refrigerators for years.

过去,腌黄瓜(英国人俗称小黄瓜)是一种不起眼的食物。人们通常把它用作配菜,或者切成小块用在汉堡和冷肉拼盘中,用来解腻。要不是用途这么有限,它们也不会一直被遗忘在冰箱后排的瓶瓶罐罐里,一连几年都鲜有人问津。

Today, however, pickles are having a moment, as a new generation of foodies has discovered their crunchy, tangy charms. On TikTok there are some 315,000 posts with the tag #pickles—more than with #cucumber and even #potatoes. Users film themselves trying dill, garlic, hot and sour varieties. (The flavour changes depending on what herbs and spices are used and whether the cucumber is soaked in vinegar or fermented in brine.) A video showing the assembly of an assorted “pickle platter” has more than 50m views.

如今,腌黄瓜因其清脆酸爽的口感,吸引了新一代美食爱好者,风靡一时。TikTok上,以“#腌黄瓜为标签的帖子有将近31.5万条,数量超过了“#黄瓜,甚至比“#土豆还多。网友们拍摄了自己品尝各种口味腌黄瓜的视频,有莳萝味、大蒜味、辣味和酸味的。(其风味取决于所使用的草药和香料,还与是用醋腌制还是在卤水中发酵有关。)其中一条关于各类腌黄瓜的黄瓜拼盘视频,浏览量超过了5000万次。

黄瓜拼盘视频网址:

https://www.tiktok.com/@poppincandyofficial/video/7319871909036887329

Some pair pickles with confectionery for a sweet-savoury morsel. The chamoy pickle—a bright red, piquant iteration—has gone viral. Eaters unconcerned about heartburn or tooth decay eat it with sour candy, fruit strips, Cheetos and hot sauce. And recently Dua Lipa, a pop star, caused a stir by stirring pickle and jalapeño juice into her Diet Coke.

有人用腌黄瓜配甜食,吃起来酸甜开胃。墨西哥风味的腌黄瓜已成为爆款——调料用的是查莫伊(Chamoy),墨西哥一种辛辣的鲜红色酱料。不担心烧心或蛀牙的人会用这种腌黄瓜配着酸糖果、水果条、奇多玉米棒和辣酱一起食用。最近,流行歌星杜瓦·利帕(Dua Lipa)在健怡可乐里拌入腌黄瓜汁和墨西哥青辣椒汁,引起了轰动。

注释:

Chamoy:查莫伊,一种传统的墨西哥调味品,它通常由脱水水果、辣椒粉、盐、糖和柑橘汁制成,使其完美結合甜、酸、咸味和辛辣的味道。

Van Holten’s, an American firm, is Gen Z’s preferred pickle purveyor. Its individually wrapped cucumbers are fun to tear open on camera. Last year the company sold some 85m units, up from 70m in 2022. “Laid end-to-end that would stretch from Miami to Seattle” four times over, says Eric Girard, the head of sales and marketing.

Van Holten's是美国一家深受Z世代喜爱的腌黄瓜公司。该品牌的腌黄瓜均为独立包装,在镜头前撕开这种包装袋如今也成了一种乐趣。去年,这家公司腌黄瓜的销量从2022年的7000万件上升到8500万件。公司的销售和营销主管埃里克·吉拉德(Eric Girard)说:如果把卖出的腌黄瓜首尾相连,总长度相当于从迈阿密到西雅图往返四次的距离。

Enthusiasts are producing pickles at home, too. During the pandemic more people found time to experiment with pickling and fermenting. They found cucumber pickles an easy thing to make and a versatile ingredient to cook with. So strong is the interest that Grillo’s, another American brand, recently released a recipe book dedicated to the pickle, spanning condiments, cocktails and cakes.

腌黄瓜爱好者们也开始在家自制腌黄瓜。疫情期间,更多人有时间尝试腌制、发酵食物。他们发现,腌黄瓜不仅制作简单,还是一个万能的烹饪材料。大众对腌黄瓜的兴趣十分浓厚,美国品牌Grillo’s公司近期甚至推出了一本腌黄瓜食谱,涵盖了各种用腌黄瓜做成的美食,有用作调料的,有做成鸡尾酒的,也有做成蛋糕的。

The obsession is new, but the pickle’s history is long. Around 4,000 years ago ancient Mesopotamians pickled vegetables; over the centuries pickle fans have reportedly included Cleopatra, Christopher Columbus and Napoleon Bonaparte.

腌黄瓜热才刚刚兴起,而腌黄瓜的历史却非常悠久。大约4000年前,古代美索不达米亚人就开始腌制蔬菜了。几世纪以来,据说克里奥帕特拉(Cleopatra)、克里斯托弗·哥伦布(Christopher Columbus)和拿破仑·波拿巴(Napoleon Bonaparte)都喜欢吃腌黄瓜。

Health concerns may be partly behind the current boom. George Rice of Serious Pig, a British snack-maker, says people buy pickles because they are low in calories. There is also “a lot of chat about gut health”, and evidence suggests that fermented foods can strengthen the gastrointestinal microbiome. Pickles made with a salt brine fit the wellness bill; those made with vinegar do not, as vinegar is too acidic for the necessary bacteria.

当下的腌黄瓜热可能与健康有关。英国零食制造商Serious Pig的乔治·赖斯(George Rice)表示,人们购买腌黄瓜是因为它们热量低。此外,关于肠道健康的讨论也很激烈;且有证据表明,发酵食物可以增强胃肠道微生物群。盐卤腌黄瓜符合健康要求;而用醋腌制的则不符合,因为醋对必需菌群来说酸性太强。

Alan Kaufman says his shop in New York, The Pickle Guys, uses more than 1,000kg of cucumbers a week. Yet runners come for the flavoured, salty liquid, as it replaces the electrolytes lost during exercise. Tempted to dust off that jar in your fridge, chomp the contents—and pour yourself a cold glass of pickle juice?

艾伦·考夫曼(Alan Kaufman)说,他在纽约的店铺The Pickle Guys每周使用1000多公斤黄瓜。跑步者都是冲着这种咸味腌黄瓜汁来的,它可以补充运动过程流失的电解质。说到这,你是否跃跃欲试,准备拂去冰箱后排那个腌黄瓜罐子上的灰,嘎吱嘎吱嚼上几根,再为自己斟上一杯冰腌黄瓜汁呢?
翻译组:

Ryan,译海徜徉的一条咸鱼

CassieECNU口译小菜鸡,体制内摸爬滚打教书匠

Qianna,对语言有点敏感,对逻辑十分执拗,对摇滚太过着迷


校对组:

Rachel,心有懵虎,细嗅乌龟

Shulin,非上上智,无了了心

Yu Yang,架一艘译舰巡航无数内心的曲折宇宙


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感想


本期感想作者;

Very,男,电气民工,经济学人资浅爱好者

人们的喜好总是翻来覆去,却无往不在重复之中。

女儿经常和我分享一些她的新奇体验,有些又成了她的最新喜好。虽然我表面上装作十分惊讶,并流露出一丝羡慕的神情,但是事后却感叹,原来现在小孩子流行的东西,也不外乎我们当年那些的翻版。

也许这里有一些商机,但投机的方向过于繁多,又缺乏选择的思路,于是我只能在脑子里随意想象,却不在上手。这类行为,是否意味着我们作为人类,我们的体验和喜好总是围绕着如何满足我们本能的方面翻来覆去。就拿甜食举例,大概率我们在最早期时,甜的东西是最受欢迎的,因为甜意味着能够提供大量的能量。另一方面,甜的水果意味着可以食用,没有毒害,因为自然界的果实往往成熟时是甜的。上述两种情况搭配起来,便刻进了我们的记忆之中,但我想这应该不是某种天然的生理性,应该是后天经验积累后的传承。过了许多年,巧克力,也是我钟爱的某种食物,也大行其道,人们能够方便地获取舔食,便开始风靡起来。因为这种食物唤起了我们原始的记忆,让我们能够随时随地体验甜所带来的快乐。

但随着最近几十年新的营养学说的改变,甜却成了某种罪魁祸首,原始的记忆被打乱了,我们的健康并不需要甜了,更准确的说法是不需要天然的甜了。所以人们用一些欺骗味觉的手段让我们一边继续感受着甜,一边又符合新的营养学说。这既是遵循内心原始的呼唤,又结合了新的需求。这又何尝不是一种原始爱好的再现呢!

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