Pictured: Bread and cold cuts at Meraki 189
A trend that hit Shanghai harder than Typhoon Bebinda in September, the ‘modern Chinese bistro’ is a tough one to pinpoint conceptually and temporally.
According to seasoned food writer Leah S, who has called Shanghai home for eight years, “An impressive number of Western bistros opened in Shanghai in 2020, and then a wave of Chinese-style bistros kicked off. If I remember right, the Ningbo-style bistro called 三佰杯 was one of the originators.”
Evolving from its Parisian roots, the Chinese bistro encapsulates European charm, Chinese culinary heritage, and kitchen techniques from both. It is a loose concept that is open to interpretation a billion ways, making it extra exciting.
Carefully pairing contemporary Chinese dishes with wine or cocktails, these chic social hubs serving unique shared plates and scrumptious snacks are perfect for casual hangs, romantic dates and everything in between.
01
Cila
🥢 Play on Northwestern Chinese cuisine
📍122 South Wulumuqi Road, Xuhui
⏰ Tue – Sun, 6 PM – 1:30 AM
☎️ 19117078396
The first of its kind in the city, Cila artfully reimagines the rich tapestry of Northwestern Chinese cuisine, and just celebrated its first year anniversary last weekend — we joined them for a special night market-inspired menu and thick slices of dragonfruit birthday cake.
The bistro’s name takes cue from the sound of oil sizzling in a pan, which resonates with the aromatic dishes here.
Helmed by AI and Yao Wentao and cheffed by Mario Chen, Cila offers a culinary journey along the spice route of Northwestern China with ingredients like lamb, hand-pulled noodles, cumin, and peppers.
ORDER THIS:
- You Po Mian (油泼面) aka
oil-splashed noodles
- Ningxia lamb chops
- Chinese wines
from Ningxia
02
Xiangjiao Bistro
( 湘椒 )
🥢 Play on Hunan or Xiang cuisine ( 湖南菜 )
📍1117 Xikang Road, Hong Shou Fang, Putuo
⏰ Daily, 11:30 AM - 2:30 PM | 5 – 10 PM
☎️ 19102192137
When Xiangjiao (湘椒) a Hunanese eatery hailing from Shenzhen, opened in Shanghai, it decided to do things differently by adopting a bistro approach.
Perched on the outer perimeter of new lifestyle area Hongshoufang, Xiangjiao pairs fiery flavours with well-curated wines, making it an instant hit among those after a taste of modern Hunanese cuisine.
The restaurant offers an impressive array of nearly 60 dishes thoughtfully categorised into seven sections. Amidst the diverse offerings, the ‘Shiso Series’ stands out with its interesting range of proteins and vegetables stir-fried with aromatic shiso leaves.
Indulge in Xiangjiao’s signature dish (this writer’s favourite!), the spicy Dry Pot Fish Roe and Maw, a moreish combination of lesser-eaten parts of a fish, and other creations that encapsulate the essence of Hunan flavours while pushing the boundaries of cooking.
ORDER THIS:
- Dry Pot Fish Roe & Maw
- Rice with Lard & Sauce
- Mashed Peppers with Century Eggs
- Sautéed Cucumber Slices
with Shiso
03
SOGOOD蛮好
🥢 Play on Wenzhou or Ou cuisine ( 甌菜 )
📍1465 Middle Fuxing Road, Xuhui
⏰ Daily, 11:30 AM – 2 PM | 5 PM – 12 midnight
☎️ 18621927285
The name says it all.
From the fluffy Wenzhou fishcakes to the sweet cauliflower stems that promote zero-waste cooking, but not forgetting the meticulously curated wine flights, there’s plenty about this place that’s “so good.”
This quirky Wenzhou-style bistro draws inspiration from the hit 90’s sitcom Friends, and was conceptualised as a haven for camaraderie.
SOGOOD, which count among chefs’ favourite supper spots, also offers meticulously curated wine flights, including one tailored for true fans of Friends — each wine was chosen its similar character to a protagonist in the series.
ORDER THIS:
- Wenzhou fishcakes
- Sweet cauliflower
- Chicken cartilage / gristle
- Wine flights
04
Meraki189
🥢 Play on Yunnan or Dian cuisine ( 云南菜 )
📍 1, 189 Yuanping Road, Xuhui
⏰ Daily, 5:30 PM – 12:30 AM
☎️ 19921150865
Meraki189, a beacon of creative gastronomy in Shanghai, derives its name from the Greek word for “doing something with pure soul, love, and creativity.”
Incorporating native Yunnan ingredients such as wild mushrooms, aged Xuanwei ham, and sour papaya, the innovative small plates here are made for mixng and matching with wine.
Yunnan cuisine
with creative twists
From the Fried Shiping Tofu to the Pig Trotters in Sour Red Soup, each creation captures the essence of the ‘modern Chinese bistro’ in Shanghai.
ORDER THIS:
- Fried Shiping Tofu
with Dry Spice Dip
- Pig Trotter in Sour Red Soup
& Sour Papaya
- Truffle & Boletus Mushroom Rice
05
HERASA禾壤
🥢 Chinese homecooking at large
📍306 South Wulumuqi Road, Xuhui
⏰ Daily, 11:30 AM – 3 PM | 5 – 10 PM
☎️ 18021077057
HERASA禾壤 has emerged as a wanghong culinary gem for its unwavering dedication to seasonality and all-natural ingredients.
The kitchen here is known for its mastery in herbs and spices. In fact, its signature creations draw attention to these individual agents of flavour and fragrance.
Jars of pickles, preserved jams and spices are proudly displayed on the restaurant’s shelves, and the menu is a celebration of culinary inheritance.
ORDER THIS:
- Turmeric Three Yellow Chicken
- Spicy Pan-fried Grouper with Scallions
- Pork Cutlet Curry Rice
- Ceylon Cinnamon Apple Cake
06
BASTARD
🥢 Play on Cantonese cuisine ( 广东菜 )
📍Unit 102, 30, 319 Jiaozhou Road, Jing’an
⏰ Mon - Fri, 12 noon - 2:30 PM | 6 PM - 12 midnight | Sat + Sun, 6 PM - 12 midnight
☎️ 13162076826
Tucked away in a former towel factory in a nondescript alley that winds from Yanping Road to Jiaozhou Road, this hidden culinary gem specialises in modern Chinese cuisine.
Michael J and Jiro, founders of BASTARD
BASTARD’s very name speaks for its owners’ audacious and unconventional approach towards food and drink — think ‘drunken pigeon’ with morrels and mango pomelo sago packaged as a ‘Dragon Ball.’
Cosy and full of character, BASTARD bistro offers a diverse selection of delicious sharing plates and always has seasonal specials to keep things interesting for return customers.
ORDER THIS:
- Drunken pigeon
- Dragon ball
- Prawn toast
- Beef tartare cheong fun
- Noodle dishes (lunchtime)
Writer: Eugenia Mok
Editor: Sammi Sowerby
All visuals were sourced via the respective establishments or public platforms. This article is not to be replicated without prior consent.
