The Ultimate List of Ramen Masters in Shanghai

文摘   2024-12-23 19:12   上海  


Clips from Tampopo (1985), a Japanese cult classic and the first 'Ramen Western'


Shanghai's 10°C drop in temperature has concurrently seen heightened cravings for steaming bowls of ramen.


Whether you prefer the rich mouthfeel of tonkotsu (pork bone) ramen, the comforting, familiar flavour of shoyu (soy sauce) ramen, the umami depth of miso (fermented soybean paste) ramen or the lipsmacking salinity of shio (salt) ramen, the city offers all of the above and some more niche varieties of ramen too.


But begin your ramen exploration with these eight accredited masters in the craft!



1

Ramen Zundo-Ya

( 寸屋拉面 )

A 'can-do-no-wrong' chain from Japan

📍 Various locations 



Going 22 years strong in Japan and boasting 87 branches nationwide, Ramen Zundo-Ya offers the authentic flavours of Kansai in Shanghai.


Known for selling 20,000 bowls a day in Japan, Ramen Zundo-Ya specialises in tonkotsu aka pork bone broth ramen.



Simmered for over 10 hours with carefully selected pork bones, the broth is milky white and impossibly rich. The ramen, made with imported Japanese machines, has a firm and smooth bite, while the pork slices see a nice balance of fat and lean meat.


The pioneer ramen chain helped popularise individual dining booths, which reduce the stigma surrounding solo dining while increasing diners' focus and appreciation of their respective bowls of ramen.



2

Machida Shoten

( 町田商店 )

Discover 'family-style' ramen

📍 C7, City Market, 1018 Changning Road, Changning

☎️ 19921559762



Le-kei (家系) ramen, the house speciality at Machida Shoten or Machida Shop, a beloved national brand in Japan, speaks for the ever-evolving nature of ramen culture.


If you can't decide between tonkotsu or shoyu ramen, this is the bowl for you — Ie-kei sees thick noodles bathed in a soy-flavoured pork broth sometimes called tonkotsu-shoyu



The beauty of Ie-kei lies is in its customisation — diners can tailor the texture of their noodles, broth's depth, and oil levels to suit their personal preferences.


Rice lovers can can even enjoy the broth over their favourite pearly white grains instead of noodles!



3

Yamacho

( 山町麺屋 )

A ramen 10 years in the making

📍 Various locations



Yamacho invested a whole decade in perfecting its signature bowl of ramen, and is now reaping the rewards. This place is a must for ramen lovers with more adventurous appetites. 


Made fresh daily using a variety of bones and seafood, the broth is on the clear and mellow side, and makes a lasting impression.



Yamacho leans into the old adage: 'eyes eat first.' Succulent slices of roasted pork are draped over the sides of each bowl and the aesthetic is extremely appetising. 


With evenly distributed fat, the meat is rich but not too greasy, and this right balance is what makes for repeat customers.



4

Iki Mitsuya-dō

( 怡己·三ツ矢堂 )

Tsukumen or dipping noodles from 1996

📍 Block E, Financial Street (Hailun) Centre, Hongkou

☎️ 021-56661066



Founded in 1996 in Tokyo, Iki Mitsuya-dō specialises in tsukemen akadipping noodles, a rarity in Shanghai. 


The restaurant in Hongkou isn't especially large, but its casual ambiance makes it a popular haunt among the office crowd.



We highly recommend the citrusy 'Family Portrait Yuzu Flavoured Ramen' as well as the spicy 'Hell Flavoured Ramen.'


If you are not used to tsukemen noodles, there's also the tonkotsu ramen series, which is delicious too.



5

Qi Zheng Japanese
Tonkotsu Ramen

( 柒钲·日式豚骨拉 )

A gem of an independent ramen shop

📍182 Yuyao Road, Jing'an

☎️ 18621838775



Qi Zheng, a cosy ramen shop with true blue traditional Japanese vibes, will make you reminisce being in Tokyo.



There are not many varieties of ramen at Qi Zheng, but all of them are excellent.


The aromatic tonkotsu ramen alone is worth a visit, and we are already anticipating springtime just to enjoy the peppery yuzu ramen once more.


The latter ingeniously pairs yuzu and spicy pepper, so there's both refreshing acidity and a tingling on the tip of one's tongue.



6

MENSHO

( 麺屋庄野·麺や庄の )

The pure taste of Tokyo in a bowl

📍Various locations



Spearheaded by ramen expert Sano Eiki, MENSHO brings a deep mastery of ramen to Shanghai.


Eiki, who believes that sourcing is as important as cooking, uses fresh, locally-grown wheat for his ramen, and follows a unique noodle-making process. 



Marrying Japanese miso and Sichuanese spices, MENSHO's limited-edition ramen was developed exclusively for China by the founder.


It incorporates carefully selected Sichuan sausages from Qingcheng Mountain, part of China's intangible cultural heritage, so one gets a hint of numbing spice in this unique fusion creation.



7

Shiroya Hokkaido

Sapporo Ramen

( 白屋·北海道札幌拉面 )

Ramen from the slopes of snowy Sapporo

📍LaLaport, 509B, 738 Xinjinqiao Road, Jinqiao, Pudong

☎️ 18655760310



Inspired by snowy white Hokkaido, this ramen eatery serves Sapporo-style ramen — so now you don't have to go all the way to North Japan.


The open kitchen of Shiroya Hokkaido Sapporo Ramen in LaLaport Shanghai Jinqiao provides the public with a glimpse of the ramen-making process — and works up an appetite as you're waiting for your bowl.


The rich, creamy broth is simmered for over 20 hours using a ratio of 70% pork and 30% chicken.


To maintain the authentic flavours of the original Sapporo store, the restaurant regularly imports a specific ramen from Nishiyama Seimen, a leading noodle manufacturer in Hokkaido, Japan. Even the miso and soy sauce are directly imported from Japan, making this the only place in Shanghai where you can experience the exclusive taste of Shiroya Hokkaido Sapporo Ramen.



8

Man Ji Ramen

( Ramen满吉·鸡汤拉面 )

A Tokyo 'Bib Gourmand recommendation'

📍Various locations



A collaboration between two ramen chefs from China and Japan, this Tokyo 'Bib Gourmand Recommendation' is a stickler for consistency.


Carefully controlled kneading and cooking time ensures that each strand of noodle at Man Ji Ramen is firm yet springy enough to complement its selection of rich, flavourful broths.



If you're partial towards a savoury broth rich with umami and fat, choose the 'Chicken and Pork Ramen' or the 'Mountain Pepper Chicken Shoyu Ramen' with a kick of spice.


Seafood fans can select the 'Whole Shrimp Miso Tonkotsu Ramen' — imagine a rich pork bone broth simmered with sweet shrimp, resulting in an inexplicably delicious and complex soup.



Original article by: Jamie Zheng

Adapted and designed by: Sammi Sowerby



All photos were sourced via the respective establishments. This article is not to be replicated without prior consent.



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