ENJOY YUNNAN WITH FCN
Taking this 5 days tour southern Yunnan (Kunming - Jianshui - Yuanyang line) gives you all imagination about colorful Yunnan! Start from Kunming for a magical journey to Stone Forest which is a geographical miracle and a giant precious art gallery of natural stone landscape. Enjoy breathtakingly sunrise and sunset at Yuanyang Rice Terraces, Experience unique cultural style buildings at Jianshui. A wonderful leisure trip that you yearn for a long time!
Kunming
December 25-29
January 8-12
January 29-February 2
5 Days · 5 Nights
ITINERARY
D0
Kunming arrival
Dec 24/Jan 7/Jan 28
You’ll begin your journey to the diverse and captivating province of Yunnan from the capital city, Kunming.
Upon arrival at the Kunming airport/train station,you will need to check in the hotel by yourself with the passport.The rest of the day is on your own to explore the comfortable cityscape and leisure atmosphere there! Have a good rest!Your knowledgeable local guide will be more than happy to offer suggestions for places to visit and activities to enjoy during your free time,feel free to ask them.
If you arrive during daytime, you can go visit Flowers & Birds Market or walk to Green Lake Park, where you are likely to find local people in traditional dress dancing together. You are welcome to enjoy them.
D1
Kunming-🚌2h-Jianshui Ancient town-🚶-Zhu Family Garden-🚌3.5h-Yuanyang Bada Rice Terrace
Dec 25/Jan 8/Jan 29
After breakfast,we will drive to 📍Jianshui (2hrs),enjoy a relaxing visit to Jianshui Ancient Town which is reputed as “Museum of Ancient Buildings and Residential Houses”. With a history over 1200 years, Jianshui Ancient Town is even older than Lijiang Old Town. Stroll leisurely along the old street and explore different kinds of ancient wells to witness how water plays an important role in making the famous Jianshui Tofu and Steam Pot Chicken.
Later, you’ll walk to the grand Chaoyang Tower, the landmark of Jianshui. Reputed as “Little Tian’anmen” with similar construction, Chaoyang Tower has a history even older than Tian’anmen in Beijing. This imposing Ming edifice is also modeled on the Yellow Crane Town in Wuhan and Yueyang Tower in Hunan. (Extra experience: you can climb up to this three-storey tower for a panoramic view of the whole Jianshui Ancient Town.)
Later, move your steps to 📍Zhu Family Garden, a spacious 20,000-sq-meter residential complex built in Qing Dynasty comprising ancestral buildings, family homes, ponds and lovely gardens. When walking into the garden, you’ll get amazed at its layout, exquisite design and elegant garden scenery.
After lunch we will go to 📍Yuanyang Rice Terrace, taking about 3.5 hours . Yuanyang Rice Terrace, considered China's most beautiful, is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site known as the Cultural Landscape of Honghe Hani Rice Terraces.
Upon reaching Yuanyang, you'll be transferred to your hotel. In the afternoon, capture stunning shots at Bada Rice Terraces(坝达梯田), renowned for its sunset views and panoramic scenery. As the sun sets, the 950-hectare rice paddies, spanning from 800 to 2000 meters, create a breathtaking sight resembling ladders to heaven illuminated by bright light. Witness the terraces transform through shades of pink, rosy, dark red, golden, and white as the sunset glow intensifies.
After the tour, return to your hotel in Yuanyang and enjoy a restful night.
D2
Duoyishu Rice Terrace Sunrise-🚶-Aichun Blue Rice Terrace-🚶-Azheke Mushroom Houses-🚶-Laohuzui Rice Terrace Sunset
Dec 26/Jan 9/Jan 30
Start your day early by heading to 📍Duoyishu Rice Terrace (多依树) to witness a captivating sunrise. Positioned amidst high mountains on three sides and stretching into the valley on the fourth, Duoyishu offers a misty Hani village with mushroom-like houses adorning the rice paddies, resembling sailboats at sea. The first light casts a splendid ray over the mountains, transforming the tranquil blue terraces into a brilliant golden hue as the sun rises.
Next, proceed to 📍Aichun Village (爱春), about 5km away, to marvel at the blue rice terrace. The blue color is not from the water but reflects the expansive sky. From a high observation deck, soak in the picturesque scene of azure skies, white clouds above, and layered blue rice terraces on the ground, with traditional Hani houses peeking through the trees. (Travel tip: Visit Aichun Village between 09:00-10:00 for the optimal time to appreciate the blue rice terrace.)
Enjoy a leisurely cultural trip to 📍Azheke Village (阿者科) in the following hours. This primitive Hani Village, with 51 protective mushroom houses, showcases harmonious living between humanity and nature. Explore the village's numerous old mushroom houses, stone mills, and encounter sheep, buffaloes, and black pigs, with smoke rising from chimneys. Visit a local Hani family to engage in insightful conversations about their daily life and ethnic customs.
Later, capture breathtaking shots at 📍Laohuzui Rice Terrace (老虎嘴), the core area of the Cultural Landscape of Honghe Hani Rice Terraces. Also known as Tiger Mouth, it stands out as the steepest, grandest, and most magnificent rice terrace in Yuanyang. This location provides the best vantage point for a sunset spectacle. From the top of Laohuzui Rice Terraces, enjoy a panoramic view resembling a blooming white flower. As the sun sets, the terraces transition from a clear and bright blue, mirroring the surroundings, to a radiant golden hue. With the sun's glow, the paddies transform rapidly into shades of pink, rosy, and dark red.
Transfer back to your hotel. Today ends.
Sunrise Time: The sun rises up during 06:00~07:30 and usually around 07:00 in the spring time.
Sunset Time: The sun goes down during 18:00~20:00. In the spring time, it is usually during 19:10~19:50, in summer at 19:25~19:57
D3
Yuanyang Rice Terraces Half Day Hike-🚌5h-Kunming
Dec 27/Jan 10/Jan 31
After breakfast,We will have a half day hike to 📍Pugao Laozhai Village. The terraced fields are ring upon ring and cascade one by one. They go along the hillside up to the sky. You will see the scenery of the terraced fields from the top of the mountains to the bottom.
After the visit,we will start to head back to Kunming(310km,4-5h drive)
D4
Kunming City-🚌1.5h-Stone Forest-🚌40mins-Jiuxiang Karst Cave-🚌2h-Kunming
Dec 28/Jan 11/Feb 1
After breakfast, your local guide and driver will meet you at your hotel and then escort you to discover 📍Stone Forest first for about 1.5 hours’ riding (85km)!
Kunming Stone Forest as the “Essence of World Karst Landform” has been listed as the UNESCO World Natural Heritage with the incomparable coverage of 12 square kilometers’ stone pinnacle groups. Take the sightseeing bus to visit the Greater Stone Forest Scenic Area to admire the typical concentrating cinerous stone pinnacles by walking through the maze of stone peaks and jumping high for the panorama of the forest of protruding stone peaks. Also, you will see the famous peak on many photos and even stones towering over 40 meters.
There is a saying goes: See stone forest above ground and explore Jiuxiang underground. After stone wonderland exploration, let’s go to discover 📍Jiuxiang Scenic Area after driving about 40 minutes (36 kilometers). Boasting more than 100 different sized Karst caves, Jiuxiang is praised as the “Museum of Karst Caves” and the “Hometown of Karst Caves” for world visitors to explore the incredible underground palace. You will take a sightseeing boat at the emerald gorge and then go down to be immersed into the dazzling world with diverse shaped stalactites lit in rich colors, layers of amazing stalagmites like terraced fields, iridescent underground river, etc.
After today’s visiting, be escorted back to your hotel in Kunming downtown. Have a good sleep!
D5
Kunming-🚌30mins-Western Hill-🚌1h-Yuantong temple-🚌20mins-Green Lake Kunming-Depature
Dec 29/Jan 12/Feb 2
In the morning, you’ll pay a visit to the famous 📍Western Hills which is called “Sleeping Beauty Hills”, looking like a beautiful young lady lying beside Dian Lake (the largest freshwater in Yunnan and famed as the “Pearl on the Plateau”). It is a particularly pleasant experience to walk in such verdant forest mountain park with elegant sightseeing and a series of cultural relics and sites, including some old temples.
Next, go to enjoy a cultural visit to 📍Yuantong Temple that is one of the top oldest Buddhist temples in Kunming with more than 1,200 years’ history. Take your stroll there to feel the rich Buddhist atmosphere of three Buddhist sects filling the antique halls and houses specially designed into a traditional Chinese garden layout for a quite different appreciation of temple in China.
Then, walk to 📍Kunming Green Lake nearby. This pretty park with a lovely lake, old-styled pavilions, corridors, flowers, etc. is the most popular place for an authentic feeling of local Kunming people’s leisure life with citizens singing, dancing, talking, exercising, etc. During November to the next March, Black-headed Gulls from Siberian will never be late to fly there for their expecting comfortable warm winter holiday. Do not miss playing with those adorable and vigorous elfin during your relaxing roam!
After today’s visiting,your guide and driver will take you to Kunming. After arriving in Kunming, transfer to the airport to catch your flight (after 17:00) to next destination or back home.
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Round trip ticket between Beijing-Dali & Lijiang-Beijing（Our staff can help you buy tickets，ticket purchase fee is 50RMB）
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Minimum number of participants: 4 people
Average Kunming Temperature by Month
What to Wear
T-shirt and light jacket are enough in Kunming downtown. However, if you are going to visit the villages and scenic areas in the remote area, you are suggested to wear more layers after the night falls. Take an umbrella with you to avoid the harsh sun light and also some occasional rains.
Spanning around 1,300 years and covering a staggering 17,000 hectare, Yuanyang Rice Terraces, or called Yuanyang Terraced Fields, is the core area of Honghe Hani Rice Terraces, which listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2013!
Type: Rice Terrace, World Heritage Site
Rice Terraces Area: 17,000 hectare
Altitude: 144m-2939m
Best Seasons: Late November to April
Popular Activities: Photography, Hiking
Why Visit Yuanyang Rice Terraces?
1. Core Area of Honghe Hani Rice Terraces: Among the 5 rice terrace sites in the world recognized by UNESCO as a collective World Heritage Site, Honghe Hani Rice Terraces in Yunnan, with Yuanyang Rice Terraces sited at its core, is the only one you will find in the vast China.
2. Splendid Rice Terraces Scenery: Yuanyang Rice Terraces has a long history of more than 1,300 years. Till now, there are more than 3,000 flat and evenly spaced terraces. They all carved following the mountains' original contour lines, forming a splendid landscape!
3. Photographer’s Dream: Thanks to its unbeatable size, gorgeous colors and unique shapes with a strong three-dimensional effect, Yuanyang Rice Terraces has long been a dream for photograph lovers. And its mesmerizing sunrise and sunset can easily occupy your camera storage.
4. Close Explore of Colorful Hani and Yi Minority Culture: Life at Yuanyang Rice Terraces remains its original looks centuries ago. Locals dressed in their iconic colorful cloths still work in the fields with their buffalo instead of modern machines. The market opens every 3~5 days. Many rural villages still maintain traditional mush-room-like houses… It seems once looking from a little bit higher of this spectacular landscape and you will be transported back to the time when Hani ancestors tirelessly carved the mountain and planted it with rice using only bare hands and stone tools.
5. Authentic Countryside Experience: Since Yuanyang Rice Terraces are tucked away from the hustle of the town and city, you’re sure to have a peaceful vacation surrounded only by rice paddies and pine trees, occasional chirping of the birds, and a chilly, cool breeze from the valley.
Laohuzui Rice Terraces
The Core Area of Yuanyang Rice Terraces
Also known as Tiger Mouth, Laohuzui Rice Terraces stands out as the steepest, grandest, and most magnificent rice terrace in Yuanyang. This location provides the best vantage point for a sunset spectacle. From the top of Laohuzui Rice Terraces, enjoy a panoramic view resembling a blooming white flower. As the sun sets, the terraces transition from a clear and bright blue, mirroring the surroundings, to a radiant golden hue. With the sun's glow, the paddies transform rapidly into shades of pink, rosy, and dark red.
Bada Rice Terraces
Best Site for Sunset and Panorama View
Bada Rice Terraces is located on the way driving from Xinjie Town to Duoyishu, with a driving distance for about 15km to Xinjie Town and 8km to Duoyishu. Longest terraces slopes will be found at Bada. And since it sits on the westernmost area of the main tourist area, it gives visitors the best angel for sunset. Hiking up to the viewing deck of Bada Rice Terraces, you will get a panorama view of Yuanyang Rice Terraces.
Duoyishu Rice Terraces
Best Site for Sunrise
Duoyishu Rice Terraces is about 23km southeast of Xinjie Town. Though being only a part of Yuanyang Rice Terraces, it is still a large area, which can be further divided into more parts, like Aichun (爱春), Dawazhe (大瓦遮), etc. The sunrise landscape at Duoyishu Rice Terraces is a must, particular when the fields are filled with water. Nothing is more breathtaking than waking up to the sunrise view here!
To mark the best view spot in this area and guarantee a better experience, a large multi-story viewing deck has been built here.
Aichun Blue Rice Terrace
Azheke Minority Village
In between the rice terraces, there are several small well-preserved Hani villages will you a glimpse of the typical life of locals. Azheke Minority Village at Bada, for instance, is a hot place to be explored.
The life of the Hani People revolves around rice: planting it, harvesting it and using the wheat-straws to build their houses! Unlike any other rural houses with a tiled roof in China, the houses at the villages like Azheke there have a mushroom-like roof created by multilayers of wheat-straws! Such lovely appearances attracted many tourists!
Why Visiting Stone Forest
Listed as Word Natural Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2007, Stone Forest is located in the hinterland of Yunnan Plateau - Shilin Yi Autonomous County, and is 78km from Kunming. It’s the only karst landform scenic spot located in subtropical plateau area. The Stone Forest has the most unique karst landform in the world due to its long history, large scale, and rich categories. It’s reputed as “First Wonder under the Heaven” and enjoys a high reputation in world geography circles.
Stone Forest started the formation from about 270 million years ago, and after a long period of geological evolution and complex paleogeography and environment evolution, the precious geological relics had finally been formed. The whole scenic area is very large, about 1,100 square kilometers, including various scenes: stone forests, karst caves, waterfalls, underground rivers, etc. Besides the natural scenery, Stone Forest also attracts numerous tourists for its featured Yi ethnic culture, and the most famous one is the legend of Ashima, which represents the image of Stone Forest.
What to See at Stone Forest
Stone Forest can be divided into eight districts, and at present, open tour districts are Stone Forest Scenic Area, Naigu Stone Forest Scenic Area, Feilong Waterfall Forest Scenic Area and Chang Lake Forest Scenic Area. Among them, Stone Forest Scenic Area is core area of the whole scenic spot, and most famous attractions are located here, including Major Stone Forest, Minor Stone Forest, Bushao Hill, Lizi Yuanqing, and Eternal Mushroom.
Major Stone Forest
The whole area is made of dense stone peaks. The stone peaks here have smooth lines and stand upright and abrupt, and the color of them is a kind of steel-gray. The highest rock pillar can reach over 40 meters. Walking among the stone forest, you will encounter rock peaks every few steps and turn to another direction – welcome to the new scenery. So if without tour guide, you must have a tour map when you visit Major Stone Forest to avoid missing in it.
Minor Stone Forest
Comparing with the dense Major Stone Forest, Minor Forest is sparser and more delicate. Wide and thick stone walls divide Minor Stone Forest into several small parks. The most famous attraction here is Ashima Stone. According to the Legend of Ashima (an oral narrative long poem which tells the story of Ashima), Ashima is a beautiful and brave Yi girl who relentless fights against the power forces to pursue freedom and at last turns into a stone, and this stone is called the Ashima Stone.
Bushao Hill
Bushao Hill is located at the east of Major Stone Forest and the south of Minor Stone Forest, it’s the highest part of the whole scenic area, and the altitude of the hill top is 1796.7 meters. There are marine fossils among the attractions of Bushao Hill, like giant gastropods fossils and coral fossils, which records the prosperous sea world 270 million years ago.
Lizi Yuanqing
Lizi Yuanqing is located outside of the Ring Road (the road built for sightseeing cable car in the scenic area). Odd pillars and rocks cover this area, sparse or dense, they all reserve their natural appearances. About 300m southeast of Ring Road, there is an ancient rock painting on the stone wall, which draws the images of human, beasts, moon and stars. According to the archaeologist, the wall painting here is related to the primitive religion. Perhaps this is the words left to us by the ancient Yi people.
Eternal Mushroom
Eternal Mushroom scenic area is next to Lizi Yuanqing. On the top of the rock hill, there is a 15 meters high rock peak, which is large on the top and small on the foot, just like a giant mushroom, thus, the place is named as Eternal Mushroom.
Naigu Stone Forest
Naigu Stone Forest Scenic Area is located 8km north of Stone Forest Scenic Area (the above five attractions are all in the Stone Forest Scenic Area). Naigu in Yi language means ancient and black. The whole scenic area covers an area of 10 square kilometers, and is made of East District, West District, Baiyun Lake, Baiyun Cave, Ancient Battle Field, etc. Standing on the highest peak and you will see a black rock sea, very magnificent. Tourists can also wander among the stone forests to feel the wild world. Another highlight is the karst caves under the ground. At present, there are 9 karst caves ascertained in total. The ticket for Nagu Stone Forest is included in the ticket of the whole Stone Forest ticket.
Jianshui, first built in Tang Dynasty, has a long history of more than 1200 years and was called Lin'an in the ancient time,. As one of the national famous historic and cultural towns of China, it has more than 50 well-preserved ancient buildings, enjoying a great reputation as a "Museum of Ancient Buildings and Residential Houses".
Jianshui Old Town is not large, mainly including several streets center on Lin'an Road. Among the numerous ancient buildings within the town, Jianshui Confucius Temple, Zhu's Family Garden, and Chaoyang City Gate worth your visiting.
Outside the town, lies the Double Dragon Bridge, also called the Seventeen-Archway Bridge. This bridge is one of the most famous historical sites in Yunnan and considered as the most beautiful ancient bridge in China. All these fame make it an unmissable sight when you visit Jianshui Ancient Town.
Zhu Family’s Garden
Zhu Family’s Garden is a Qing-era private mansion and comprises 214 intricately detailed wooden rooms orderly laid out in a labyrinth of 42 courtyards. Occupying an area of 20000 square meters, it took the Zhu family over 30 years to build such a style and grandeur. The lovely gardens, exquisite theater over the water as well as gracefully decorated family homes easily evokes the privileged life enjoyed by this large wealthy family in imperial times. More appealing, it is now partially converted into a guesthouse, offering 28 elegant rooms all with Qing-dynasty style furnishing. Visitors can stay one night to experience a traditional lifestyle.
Chaoyang Tower
The only survived city gate in Jianshui, Chaoyang Tower built in 1380 is an iconic landmark of the town. Characterized by tall wooden pillars and hip roofs with gilded tiles, the three-story structure bears a resemblance to the Tian’anmen Gate Tower in Beijing. Visitors can climb up into the gate to take in elaborate architectural details and panoramic views of the old town. In front of the tower is a crescent square where you can glimpse into local’s leisure life, such as dancing, playing cards and walking birds.
Why Visiting Jiuxiang Cave
Jiuxiang Cave, also known as Jiuxiang Scenic Region (九乡风景区) is located in the mountainous area in Jiuxiang Yi and Hui Autonomous Township of Yiliang County with an elevation between 1750m to 1900m. It is 30km from the Stone Forest and 90km from Kunming city center.
Jiuxiang Cave is a national scenic spots and historical sites which is praised as the "Museum of Karst Caves", boasts more than 100 Karst caves and is the largest cave group system in China. The cave formations are very varied and the rivers, waterfalls, and natural rock bridges are very enchanting. With lush forest, rich animal and plant resources in Jiuxiang Scenic Region, the formation are very varied and the colorful underground palace, grand Karst stone terrace, pellucid rapid stream, rambling magnificent twin waterfalls, and natural rock bridges are all made the place very enchanting.
There are not only magnificent mountains and valleys but also the exotic and beautiful underground cave. The main scenic spots of Jiuxiang Scenic Region are Green Shady Valley, Grand Underground Valley, Grand Lion Hall, Fairy Palace, Twin Waterfalls, Fairy Fields and Bat Cave etc.
Green and Shady Valley
quiet and elegant retreats
Green and Shady Valley (荫碧峡), also called the Valley of Love for it was the place for local young men and women to sing songs in order to find lovers. The valley stretches for about 600m, flanked with verdant trees. You can take a boat ride through the valley and hear the voices echoing off the cliffs. The picturesque landscape is unforgettable, many poets had written touching poems there.
Grand Underground Valley - blood-surging and impressive valley
Grand Underground Valley
Also known as the Terrifying Gorge (惊魂峡) is 700 meters long, is currently the most spectacular underground valley found in China. The two sides of the cliff is straightly down like been cut by a knife and axe. From the bottom of the valley to the top of the cave is nearly 100m, the narrowest place is only 3 to 4 meters, visitors can experience the thrilling feeling.
Grand Lion Hall
The setting for the movie “The Myth”
The Grand Lion Hall (雄狮厅) is the largest underground hall in the world, with a total area of 15,000 square meters, tourists holding capacity can reach 10,000 people. What is so remarkable about this place is that the top of the hall is made of a complete plate inlaid with several sinuous eddies but hasn’t got any pillars. The construction of the top plate is perfect and seamless.
Fairy Palace
Dainty and exquisite stalactite
Wandering around the Fairy Palace (神女宫), visitors can enjoy the typical underground Karst landscape. Stalactites are exquisite, nestled close to each other like fairies singing and dancing in the palace, contend in beauty and fascination. The dreamlike scenery gives people an illusion of being in a fairyland.
Twin Waterfalls
Earthshaking verve of the waterfall
Twin Waterfalls (雌雄飞瀑) is two waterfalls cascade down from the rock at a length of 30 meters and meet in a deep pool at a depth of 10 meters in Wolong Cave. The two waterfalls fall straight down with a maximum flow of 320 cubic meters per second, making a deafening sound. The powerful and magnificent momentum of the water makes the two waterfalls like two inseparable lovers. It’s really a rare wonder of caves in China.
Fairy Field
The natural made wonder of stony terrace
The total area of the Fairy Field (神田) is about 100 square meters, more than 10m deep. It is praised as the most amazing cave scenery by international speleologists. Layers of stalagmites, highlighted with colored lights, look like terraced fields. There is a huge conical stalactite shaped like a grain of cereal, bathed in a gold-yellow light.
Bat Cave - the underground Stone Forest
The Bat Cave (蝙蝠洞), also known as Underground Upside Down Stone Forest, is a magic scene formed by different directions of air flow. The stone forest here is characterized by its great and irregular inclination.
Why Visiting Western Hills
Western Hills is called 西山(Xishan) in Chinese, and is a scenic forest park located in the west suburb of Kunming, 15km to the city center. With the altitude ranging from 1,900-2,350, this mountain spot looks like a charming “sleeping beauty” from afar. Besides, Western Hill has always been reputed as the “top scenery in central Yunnan”, boasting the famous excellent Dragon Gate scenic spot with advantageous place for an overlook at the gem-like Dianchi Lake sitting on the east side and the large Kunming City.
Western Hill is a large forest park perfectly combing the natural scenery with the cultural relics. Historic sites are surrounded by quiet and peaceful green forests, including carving sites, temple clusters, pavilions, etc. It’s a perfect place for walking and relaxing.
Yuantong Temple is at the foot of Yuantong Hill in the northern part of Kunming. With a history of more than 1,200 years, it is one of the grandest as well as the most important Buddhist temple in Yunnan Province. King Yimouxun of the Nanzhao Kingdom built it during the late eighth century as a continuation of Putuoluo Temple, and the restorations performed from the Qing Dynasty (1644 - 1911) onward had not changed its unique mixed architectural style of the Yuan (1271 - 1368) and Ming (1644 - 1911) Dynasties.
Why Visiting Green Lake Park
Originally called Cai Hai Zi, Kunming Green Lake, or Cui Hu, is the “Eye of Kunming City” located at the downtown. Its elegant sightseeing of trees, flowers, lakes, and animals, etc. make this lake very shining jasper, and that is why it gets the honorable name of the “Jade of Kunming City”. To provide a better place for visitors to enjoy the beautiful sightseeing, the Green Lake Kunming has been built as a garden with many charming natural sceneries, and it is being a great place to go for visitors in Kunming. And now, Green Lake Park is one of the must-go place for global visitors to Kunming, either for a simple walk, watch local people’s life, or play with the vivacious black-necked gulls in warm winter!
Yunnanese food
What to Eat
Yunnanese food splits broadly into three cooking styles. In the north, the cold, pastoral lifestyle produces dried meats and – very unusually for China – dairy products, fused with a Muslim cuisine, a vestige of the thirteenth-century Mongolian invasion. Typical dishes include wind-cured ham (火腿, huŏtuĭ), sweetened, steamed and served with slices of bread; dried cheese or yoghurt wafers (乳扇, rŭshān or 乳饼, rŭbǐng); the local version of crisp-skinned duck (烧鸭, shāoyā), flavoured with Sichuan peppercorns – you’ll see drum-shaped duck ovens outside many restaurants – and a tasty fish claypot (沙锅鱼, shāguō yú).
Eastern Yunnan produces the most recognizably “Chinese” food. From here comes chicken flavoured with medicinal herbs and stewed inside a specially shaped earthenware steamer (气锅鸡, qìguōjī), and perhaps the province’s most celebrated dish, crossing-the-bridge noodles (过桥米线, guòqiáo mǐxiàn), a sort of individualized hotpot eaten as a cheap snack; you pay by the size of the bowl. The curious name comes from a tale of a Qing scholar who retired every day to a lakeside pavilion to compose poetry. His wife, an understanding soul, used to cook him lunch, but the food always cooled as she carried it from their home over the bridge to where he studied – until she hit on the idea of keeping the heat in with a layer of oil on top of his soup.
Not surprisingly, Yunnan’s south is strongly influenced by Burmese, Lao and Thai cooking methods, particularly in the use of such un-Chinese ingredients as lime juice, coconut, palm sugar, cloves and turmeric. Here you’ll find a vast range of soups and stews, roughly recognizable as curries, displayed in aluminium pots outside fast-turnover restaurants, and oddities such as purple rice-flour pancakes sold at street markets. The south is also famous in China for producing good coffee and red pu’er, Yunnan’s best tea.
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