人人都可以当网红

文化 2024-11-19 18:41 山东

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Too many people want to be social-media influencers

人人都想当网红

That is good for companies but bad for “creators”

公司的福音，创作者的死因

Ask a young person what they would like to do with their life and increasingly often the answer will be to find fame and fortune online. Fully 57% of Gen Zs in America would like to be a social-media influencer, according to Morning Consult, a pollster; 53% describe it as a “reputable career choice”. Those dreams may be understandable: examples abound of social-media superstars, from fashionistas and comedians to gamers, making tens of thousands of dollars for a post promoting the wares of some brand. As consumers spend more of their lives on social media, the amount of money companies are paying influencers is rocketing.

如果问一个年轻人，他的一生想要做成什么事，越来越多的回答是想在网上一炮而红，从而大赚一笔、名利双收。根据民意调查机构Morning Consult的数据，美国整整57%的Z世代希望成为网红；53%的人将其描述为“声誉良好的职业选择”。网红之梦不难理解：社媒里的巨星比比皆是，无论是时尚达人、喜剧演员还是游戏玩家应有尽有，仅靠一篇推广某个品牌商品的广告帖就能让他们赚得钵满盆满。随着消费者在社交媒体上花费的时间越来越多，公司支付给网红的报酬也在飙升。

注释：

“Z世代”，通常是指1995年至2009年出生的一代人‌。这一代人一出生就与网络信息时代无缝对接，受数字信息技术、‌即时通信设备、智能手机产品等影响较大。

Yet as the industry has grown, it has also changed. Spoiled for choice, companies have shifted their attention towards influencers creating content for narrower audiences, such as fashion tips for the over 60s or gardening advice for inner-city dwellers, to better target those consumers. Cultivating a small fan base in a niche area may earn hobbyists some extra cash, but it will rarely be enough for them to quit their day job. Those who fantasise about making a living as a social-media star may thus be heading for disappointment.

但是随着网红行业蓬勃发展，形势也发生了改变。由于网红人选不计其数，公司将注意力转移到了为小众群体创作内容的网红身上，例如为60岁以上人群提供时尚秘诀或为市中心的居民提供园艺建议的那群网红，从而更好地锁定目标消费者。善用利基市场培养小批粉丝群也许能让门外汉赚点零花钱，但这不足以支撑他们辞掉谋生的工作。那些幻想靠成为网红来谋生的人可能会大失所望。

Companies have been increasing the share of their marketing budgets they hand over to influencers. Over the past five years, American firms have roughly tripled their spending on influencer marketing, to $7bn, according to eMarketer, a research firm. In a survey by the Influencer Marketing Hub, another research group, 86% of brands globally said they plan to spend on influencer marketing this year, up from 37% in 2017, when the survey was first conducted. Nearly a quarter intend to spend over 40% of their marketing budget on influencer campaigns.

公司也不断在增加它们给网红的营销预算。根据研究机构eMarketer的数据，过去五年来，美国公司在网红营销上的支出大约增加了两倍，达到了70亿美元。在另一个研究机构 Influencer Marketing Hub的一项调查中，全球86%的品牌方表示，它们计划今年在网红营销上投入费用，而这一数据在2017年首次调查时是37%。近四分之一的受访企业打算将超过40%的营销预算用于网红营销活动上。

Companies realise that influencers—or “creators”, as many prefer to be called—have become integral to how consumers shop. According to research by Northwestern University and LTK, a platform that connects influencers with brands, nearly three-quarters of Gen Zs in America have relied on influencers to help them choose products to buy. More surprisingly, so have a third of consumers who are boomers or older (see chart 1).

公司意识到，网红或者创作者（多数网红希望被称为创作者）已成为了消费者购物中不可或缺的一环。根据西北大学和LTK（一个为网红与品牌搭桥的平台）的研究，美国近四分之三的Z世代听从网红的购物推荐。更惊人的是，婴儿潮一代或岁数更大的消费者中有三分之一也是如此（见图 1）。

Influencers are part of every big campaign nowadays, says Mark Read, the boss of WPP, which owns advertising agencies such as Ogilvy and Mindshare. Walmart, a giant American retailer, has worked with TikTok stars Charli and Dixie D’Amelio. BOSS, a fancy clothing brand, has collaborated with Khaby Lame, a comedian with more followers than anyone else on TikTok. Louis Vuitton, a luxury stalwart, has run campaigns with Emma Chamberlain, a YouTuber. For the past few years influencers have even starred in Super Bowl ads alongside Hollywood royalty and chart-topping pop stars. The biggest influencers now hire legions of staff to help them create eye-catching posts, while agencies and other middlemen help them land and manage brand deals.

WPP集团旗下有奥美（Ogilvy）和传立（Mindshare）等广告公司，其CEO马克·瑞德（Mark Read）表示，现在每一场大型广告活动都有网红的参与。比如，美国零售巨头沃尔玛与TikTok网红姐妹花查莉（Charli）和迪克西·达梅里奥（Dixie D’Amelio）合作。高档服装品牌BOSS的合作对象是哈比·拉梅（Khaby Lame），他在TikTok上是粉丝数量最多的喜剧演员。奢侈品巨头路易威登与YouTube网红艾玛·张伯伦（Emma Chamberlain）开展商业合作。过去几年里，网红们甚至与好莱坞明星和高居榜首的流行歌星一起出演超级碗（Super Bowl）的广告。如今，大网红们雇佣了大量员工来帮忙创作吸睛的帖子，而与各品牌的合作则由代理公司和其他经纪人来负责敲定和管理。

Such stories have lured a growing number of people to try their hand at being an influencer. Goldman Sachs, a bank, estimates that as of last year there were more than 50m influencers globally, and reckons their ranks are swelling by between 10% and 20% annually.

这样的事例让越来越多人想在“网红”这条赛道一试身手。高盛银行（Goldman Sachs）估计，截至去年，全球已有超过5000万名网红，并且网红人数正以每年10%到20%的速度增长。

The surging supply of influencers has been a boon for companies that use them to sell their products. Celebrity influencers may be helpful for building awareness of a brand or altering how it is perceived by shoppers, but when it comes to persuading people to buy something, marketers look to the long tail of creators with small but engaged groups of followers.

对那些通过网红来销售产品的公司而言，网红数量激增大有裨益。有名气的大网红或许有助于建立品牌知名度，或改变消费者对品牌的看法。不过，要推销某件商品时，公司则会因“长尾效应”而对那些粉丝数量不多但粉丝活跃度很高的小网红寄予厚望。

注释：

长尾效应‌，英文称为‌Long Tail Effect，是指那些原来不受到重视的销量小但种类多的产品或服务由于总量巨大，累积起来的总收益超过主流产品的现象。长尾效应的核心在于个性化和小众市场‌。通过互联网等渠道，企业可以有效地降低存储和物流成本，从而关注那些以往被忽视的小众市场需求。

Since 2021 the share of spending on influencer marketing in America taken by creators with more than 1m followers has fallen from 15% to 8%; the share taken by those with fewer than 20,000 followers has surged from 20% to 45% (see chart 2). Marketing agencies help companies manage contracts with many such influencers, sometimes using artificial intelligence (AI) to scout out those whose audiences best match their needs.

2021年以来，在美国网红营销的总支出中，花在拥有100多万粉丝的大网红身上的支出占比从15%下降到8%，而聘请那些粉丝数少于2万的小网红的支出占比则从20%飙升至45%（见图表2）。营销机构为企业与许多这样的小网红牵线搭桥，有时还会使用人工智能来筛选出粉丝受众最符合企业需求的小网红。

For those hoping to make a career out of their social-media presence, however, the proliferation of social-media influencers should be a cause for concern. Only 4% of creators earn $100,000 a year or more from the work, according to Goldman Sachs. AI could worsen the situation, as “virtual influencers” begin to crowd social-media feeds: Aitana López, a gamer and fitness guru with pink hair and a face so symmetrical it could only have been generated by a computer, has 330,000 followers on Instagram.

对于那些希望通过社交媒体发迹的人来说，社媒网红日益增多则令人担忧。根据高盛的数据，只有4%的创作者年收入能超过10万美元。人工智能可能会让事情变得更糟，因为“虚拟网红”开始涌入社交媒体。比如艾塔娜·洛佩兹（Aitana López），这位游戏玩家兼健身达人留着一头粉发，脸型完美对称，要说不是电脑生成的都没人信，如今她在Instagram上拥有33万粉丝。

The glut of influencers is also making online fame yet more fickle. Even if a post goes viral, that doesn’t mean an influencer’s career is set, says Joe Gagliese, co-founder of Viral Nation, a marketing agency. “If they’re not careful to make the most of that, there is another creator right behind them,” he says. “This industry is extremely volatile,” points out Vanessa Chen, a fashion influencer better known by her Instagram name Vivacious Honey. To diversify her income, she recently launched her own clothing line. Many others have done something similar.

网红数量的激增也让网络成名变得更加难以预测。Viral Nation营销机构的联合创始人乔·加利斯（Joe Gagliese）表示，即使一条帖子爆红，也不意味着网红的事业就此稳固。“如果他们不抓住机会充分利用，很快就会有另一个创作者迎头赶上，”他说。时尚博主陳詠昕（Vanessa Chen，Instagram名为Vivacious Honey）指出：“这个行业非常不稳定。”为此，她最近推出了自己的服装品牌，许多其他网红也采取了类似的做法以拓宽收入渠道

There is another problem with the flood of influencers online: consumers are growing weary of all those ads dressed up as entertainment. In a survey last year McKinsey, a consultancy, found that 68% of fashion consumers globally were unhappy with the amount of sponsored content on social media.

随着大量网红的涌现，另一个问题也随之而来：消费者开始厌倦那些伪装成娱乐的广告。咨询公司麦肯锡在去年进行的一项调查中发现，全球68%的时尚消费者对社交媒体上大量的赞助内容感到不满。

Influencers first took off because consumers thought of them as “people they could trust”, says Anita Balchandani of McKinsey. To remain influential they need to strike a balance between getting paid and convincing followers they are still “authentic”, one of the industry’s favourite buzzwords. Being popular, it seems, is harder than ever.

麦肯锡的安妮塔·巴尔钱达尼（Anita Balchandani）表示，网红最初之所以走红，是因为消费者认为他们是“可以信任的人”。为了保持影响力，网红需要在赚钱与让粉丝相信他们仍然是“真实的”之间找到平衡，“真实”也是这个行业最常用的流行词之一。看起来，如今想要成为网红比以往任何时候都更难了。

http://mp.weixin.qq.com/s?__biz=MzUyNDQ4MjYzNA==&mid=2247556906&idx=1&sn=7d66a3ad2204ffb9c669b2514b82c875

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